We took our 240 from LA to San Diego this weekend and it burned a quart of oil covering 234 miles.

Has anyone tried adapting the cyclone oil separator from a w123 on a w115 to cut down the oil consumption. I understand the unit's operating principle but no diagram. I presume it has one CCV inlet, one outlet to the intake and a oil drain line. Does anyone think this setup would work if I had a catch bottle hooked up to the separator and manually emptied the oil back into the crankcase to cut down on the oil burning?

Any thoughts or suggestions?

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1974 240D 3.0L 4(M) - 250K -OM617.910 + 300D FW + Rajay turbo power!
1977 6.9 3(A) - 84k

That item would not normally be the first one looked at when excessive oil consumption was encountered....
Any particular reason you focused on it as needing changing ?

I posted this as a modification to the engine. My car doesn't have one to begin with. The CCV tube goes straight from the top of the crankcase cover to a T fitting and down to a distributor that trickles oil into a rail into the intake manifold. The rest of the gas is diverted from the T fitting into the intake tract piping.

The engine runs great but it seems to be getting tired and burns oil so until I either sell it or find a new engine I would like to run it as "clean" as possible without all of the oil being burned in the exhaust. I figure since this was added onto later 240's why not implement it on an older 616?

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1974 240D 3.0L 4(M) - 250K -OM617.910 + 300D FW + Rajay turbo power!
1977 6.9 3(A) - 84k

You should consider installing new valve stem seals... something like $20 for them... and you can do it yourself.... could make a lot of difference....

Leathermang is right, fix the source of the (internal) oil consumption, usually valve seals or rings or a combination of both.
You may want to do a leakdown test first, to see if the valve seals are all that is involved. I had a NA 617 oil burner that I replaced the valve seals and still had high level of blow by. It turned out there was a cracked ring that was the cause of most of the blowby. As long as you set up air to compress the valves for replacing the seals, you may as well do a leakdown test. A LD tester isn't terribly expensive (less than a good compression gauge) and by carefully listening to the place the pressure leaks out you can determine its source.
I am using a cyclone air separator off the late model 240D's on my 300TD with turbo engine and non-stock airfilter. It drips condensate back down the same line that the separator in the stock AF used. Without a return you will lose oil to the ground and smell oil fumes constantly DAMHIK

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

" As long as you set up air to compress the valves for replacing the seals,"

I have one of those sparkplug air adapters for that... on Gas Engines...

But on these diesels... the piston gets so close to the valves that you can just use them to hold the valve up while you do the valve stem replacement...

Using compressed air on gas engines is one of the highest stress jobs I have seen.... one spec of carbon holding the valve from seating... and WHAMO... you lose the valve into the bore... LOL
Meaning the head has to come off...

There is a lot of oil coming from the CCV as the inside of the tube is dripping with engine oil. Is that normal?

Is there a way to separate symptoms of oil seeping through the valve stem seals and oil mist being vented into the intake from engine blowby?

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1974 240D 3.0L 4(M) - 250K -OM617.910 + 300D FW + Rajay turbo power!
1977 6.9 3(A) - 84k

There probably is... but it is probably easier to just put the valve stem seals on and then see how much was stopped ...they are cheap and it is a relatively clean and easy job....

It all depends on your definition of ' relatively' ... LOL