Driving around today running errands in the '85. Walked into the office to get my expense check (got to get it in the bank) and my boss asked me what was on my leg. Well, that would have been a long oil drip. Great, so before I left I popped out the inst. cluster to tighten the oil pressure line. Nope, dry as a bone. Then I found the oil drip. Coming from the ignition switch, which means: bad IP shutoff valve.
Here is some pics of the replacement. Not a hard job at all. I wish I knew how to post pics in between the text lines, but all I know how to do is add them at the bottom.

First, take a picture of all the vac lines, as some will have to be disconnected and moved.
I disconnected the throttle linkage, removed the plastic thing on back of IP (tranny related?, don't know). It had 2 5mm allens holding it on. Removed vac line from IP shutoff. Shutoff has 4 10mm bolts. Some can be totally loosened with a 1/4" ratchet, but a couple need a wrench for clearance.
When you get them out, pull out the shutoff assy a small amount, and feel the tension as it grabs the shutoff arm inside the IP. You want to know what this feels like for re installation.
There are 2 gaskets with a metal ring in between them. Be sure and save this metal ring, as it has to be installed on the new one.
Note: I had to snake the shutoff out between the oil filter housing and the engine, back towards firewall and then up and out. you will figure it out.
New one goes in same way. Push it into IP and then before you tighten it down you want to pull out on it to make sure it is contacting arm inside IP. You don't want engine run-away after this. Then reinstall bolts, vac lines and anything else removed in the process.
*Now, prior to starting the engine, I got my trusty 17mm wrench, and loosened the inj. lines at IP, then tightened them slightly. Wanted to make sure they would be easy and fast to crack open in the event of a disaster. I also used my Mityvac to actuate the IP shutoff, but you could use key.
All went fine, except that I finished at dark, and my test drive yielded shifting and acceleration differences from before. Will have to see what I did in the morning.

Things to note:
*If shutoff is full of oil, and mine was FULL, you need to blow out the vac lines that are contaminated. I used my air compressor, then squirted some WD40 in them (per my mechanic), then blew them out again. I just blew out the two brown lines as the oil didn't migrate farther than that, thank goodness. I removed vac line at brake booster to look for oil residue, and there wasn't a drop. It would have needed to be vacuumed out if oil had made it in.
*I removed the shutoff on the keylock assy and cleaned the oil out of it also. It was full. same way. Compressed air, then WD40, then more air.

I'm a simpleton, and this was an easy job.

Attached Thumbnails

         

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John