Fuel Leaks on top of the IP.

[Californian]

I get diesel leaks on top of the IP . This is where the fuel lines run out to the Injectors. My bro in law, a mechanics, said he doesn't want to touch it because it has to do with timing, and he has not work with a diesel. He said it could have something to do with O Rings.

Any suggestion ? Thanks. Please help.

[dkveuro]

The part that screws into the body ( Element.) has an O ring. You will need a special tool to unscrew the elements. You will not change the timing. You must be extreemly clean. Use Carb' Cleaner to wash the IP before you start.
MB and diesel shops carry the O rings.

The SST tool usually runs $80.00 or so.

[speedy300Dturbo]

Search for delivery valves and the torque procedure associated with the splined nuts, and you'll find lots of info. You have a classic symptom of leaky delivery valve O-rings. In the beginning stage, you'll get diesel leaking at the top of the IP. If they're leaking really bad, the IP will lose "prime" and air will get in, making it difficult to start after sitting overnight.

[Californian]

Originally Posted by speedy300Dturbo

Search for delivery valves and the torque procedure associated with the splined nuts, and you'll find lots of info. You have a classic symptom of leaky delivery valve O-rings. In the beginning stage, you'll get diesel leaking at the top of the IP. If they're leaking really bad, the IP will lose "prime" and air will get in, making it difficult to start after sitting overnight.

Oh Yes, you are so right about this. This is exactly what is happening. I am lucky the starter is still working after so many long cranks. Even parking on an uphill will cause the same symptoms minutes after being parked .

[Californian]

Do you know which of these 2 is the life saver ? Thanks.

http://www.***************/catalog/lookup_parts.cfm?SubcategoryID=6232&VehicleID=1194050&CFID=487724&CFToken=90289973

[speedy300Dturbo]

The top one will do the trick. The procedure typically involves replacing the copper crush washers as well. I didn't see them on the ********AZ website though. I don't buy from ********AZ, but I must admit that I like how their system shows the OEM part numbers.

[BrierS]

Having recently completed this job on my '87 300TD I can say it is not bad at all. I may have missed it as I skimmed through the responses but will add it . . . get replacement fuel line clips before starting the replacement of the o'rings and crush washers. You will also need to borrow or purchase the special splined socket. I did not remove the lines completely as some suggested but that does not mean it was the wise decision. It saved me some time yet not w/o risk of crimping a steel (assumed) line. On mine, I had to remove the bracket under the intake manifold to release enough of the position of the fuel delivery lines. I broke at least two of the fuel line clips but Phil had me buy new ones when I placed my initial parts order. Basically, I called Fastlane, told Phil what I was doing and he sold me everything I needed to complete the job, including the splined socket. No more loss of prime and leaking diesel fuel.
Steve