I just wish I knew more about OHC timing and timing chain installs, then I'd be far less scared...

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

I took a the plunge for the first time and pulled the head on the 617. Had a few reservations before I started with it, but, there is more than enough advice on here to help you out. I'm still waiting for the machine shop to finish it so I can reinstall it.

Don't attempt it without the FSM. This is even more important on the 603, but has become invaluable for me on the 617 as well.

what is fsm please?

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Factory Service Manual.

thanks, brian.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I've done head swaps before, but only on domestic small blocks... Turbo Buick 231 and Small Fords. So my knowledge is limited but I know what's involved, basically treading into uncharted waters.

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

Hello All...

Thanks for everyone's input. I checked the reservoir level and made sure it was at the proper cold temp level on the reservoir. That was a couple of days ago. Low level indicator has not come on and I haven't had to add any fluid. That is good !! I mentioned that tapping noise in an earlier post. I really think that the injectors need to be checked or replaced. It maybe something to do with the prechamber. I don't know. I am not as technical as most of you guy's. Anyway, I spoke to the mechanic that will be looking at it Monday. He said that I could have more than one thing happening at once. He's not going to rip into anything, but I just want him to start it cold and just do an evaluation of sorts before we do anything. The tapping noise is getting less and less when the car is warm. If it sits at idle for a few minutes, it will start to ping / tap / smoke. More if you just started it when it's cold. Anyway, he said to drive it as much as possible the rest of the week and see if anything changes. Knowing how much this car was at rest in the garage over the years, it may just need to be driven.

I'll let you guy's know how the week goes and if the car acts up.

Later,
scott

One other point to note:

Nearly all of these older 603 engines suffer from tapping lifters periodically. This one sometimes taps when cold and sometimes taps when really hot, such as after a 4 hour freeway run.

The tapping can get quite loud at times, leading you to believe that you have something seriously wrong with the engine. But, the next day, the tapping is gone, as mysteriously as it arrived.

So, if you have any tapping noises that are sporadic, it's most likely the lifters.

Most of us just drive them that way. The camshaft needs to be removed to get at them and they are probably $30.00 apiece now.

Don't remind me Brian I remember when lifters were $18 each!

I would suspect a bad lifter, pretty much every 603 seems to have a little lifter tick.

As for the injectors pull them and have them tested. It should cost about $10 each to test them.

It looks like a clean example in the pics, defintly worth putting money into.

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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Hello,

The low level reservoir indicator has periodically come on, but for the most part, it has stayed off. I have checked the fluid level in the morning before going to work and it is at the cold level mark indicator. It will come on when I give it gas to get on the hwy and then eventually it will go off. It willperiodically come on as the load on the engine changes and then when the load is constant, stays off.

As far as the temp gauge goes, it has been warm here and I have been running the A/C. The gauge will read anywhere from 82 up to 90 and if I idle for long periods will get up to 100 and then the fan kicks on. Is this o.k.

If I have bad coolant hoses that flex too much, couldn't this cause more of a fluctuation in the reservoir tank? I think it's normal for the fluid level to raise and fall depending on load / temp, but it shouldn't get so low that the low light comes on right?

What about a bad thermastat? Temp Switch?

The tapping noise is less and less. More at start up. Idles rough, and then after driving and coming to a stop, idles just fine with less and less of the tapping noise.

I adjusted the position of the secondary inline fuel filter so that it is in more of an upright position. Seems to have helped. I think. Maybe the glow plugs, fuel injectors, ALDA, or pump need to be checked?

I don't think I have a cracked head.... I am praying!

Any thoughts....

Is the radiator cap off or is it back on?

Clean the contacts of the coolant level sensor. Dirty contacts can throw the warning light.

Can you pinch the upper radiator hose first thing in the morning?

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

Yes, the radiator cap on the resevoir is back on. I only loosened it the time I was trying my friend's idea for troubleshooting. It's been back on.

Someone mentioned the radiator hose thing before. Soft / Hard... what does that mean? The main hose going to the thermostat from the radiator?

Thanks

Hard after the vehicle has been sitting is bad, something is wrong with the head and/or gasket. Soft is good, means pressure is bleeding down normally.

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

Let the vehicle sit overnight, after giving it a good highway run.

Open the hood and pinch the upper radiator hose. You should be able to sqeeze it shut between your two fingers.

If it feels firm and you can't sqeeze it shut, open the cap on the expansion tank. Listen for escaping air. This would be in contrast to a slight intake of air if the system has a slight vacuum (normal condition).

Now squeeze the upper hose again.

If you heard escaping air from the cap, and the hose is now soft and you can close your fingers, when you could not do it before, then your hopes are dashed.