Anwhere below 1.2 ohms is fine. If they are bad, they are usually way over this value, or simply open.

Hit Man X,

The resistance of the 603 GP is same as the 617 GP: 0.5 to 0.9 ohms.

The GP cable must be unplugged from the GP relay when measuring to avoid parallel readings. If you have a bananna plug lead on your meter, it can be plugged into the GP cable connector holes for an easy and reliable connection.

P E H

Haiges, I only think that they should be replaced because I don't believe my father had them replaced. Just from reading posts and replies on the forum, everyone just says to replace them all at once instead of 1 here and 1 there.

I drove the car today to see if what I have said is what is happening. Pretty accurate. Mileage at the time of the pictures was 106911. Checked the fluid in the reservoir. Coolant was visible in the lower part of the reservoir. Added fluid to the reservoir line. Engine oil right on the mark as always. Car starts just fine. I little rough at first. It did smoke. More off a white / gray smoke. Not black. It seems like when the car gets up to running temperature, it does not smoke. If you start the car again after driving for a while, it will smoke. It will go back to normal after reving it a little. Anyway, I let it warm up just a little and drove it to get fuel and to rinse it off. It wasn't making that tapping noise as I have tried to explain. I rinsed it off and let it idle while I dried it off. After about 10-15 minutes of idling, as I expected, the white / gray smoke started appeared. I was finished drying the car and drove away of course with no visible smoke. Drove it for about 15 miles. Ran great. I took some pictures that I will post for everyone to look at. It was warm today and I had the a/c cranked so the temp needle went up to 100 - 101 when I was letting it idle while taking pictures and you will see the instrument cluster showing the outside temp which is probably no that hot but close. When I was driving it, the temp needle stayed at the 85-90 mark.

Maybe I will take a video of it while it is acting up???

Anyway, I decided to have it looked at because it is such a nice car and I have to know for sure what the problem is before I make a decision on what to do with it.

I'll post some pics shortly.

Thanks for the input! Great forum!

Scott

I checked them and came out with 0.6 for all six of them, looks like I'm in good shape... the service invoice I found in the trunk for the replacment of them (among other items) seems authentic.

Thanks!

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

To find for sure what the problem is you need to have the head pressure checked and examined. That means tearing into it. If its just a head gasket your going to be lucky. If its the #14 head with cracks then it off to the bank to finance a repair. Just kidding about the bank thing. But a cylinder head isn't cheap. Still as I said, a car like that is worth restoring to its new operating condition. I love the way the 603 engines smoothly accelerates and take you down the road as fast as you need to go, in style!
Let us see some pics, till then keep that rad cap off, and remember its going to run hotter than normal that way so shut off the AC when you come to a stop light or traffic.

__________________
'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

Here are some pictures. The car is not perfect. As you will see, there are paint chips near the headlights. Also, there are minor light surface scratches here and there. That is to be expected on an old car. There is no rust. Very small hairline cracks in the center console. The picture of the instrument cluster shows rpms at 2k. This is at idle to show good oil preasure. I was not driving while taking this just so everyone knows. I took a lot of pictures so there are going to be multiple posts.

Let me know what you think.

Thanks,

Scott

pictures continued....

even more....

I only have a few more...

Stop the madness

Just a couple of more pics and I am done...

Done!

Thanks,
Scott

Looks pretty clean to me...

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

Looks good to me too.

__________________
1981 300SD 118K
2000 Toyata Tundra 64K

I did a head gasket on my 87300D a year ago (thought I had a bad gasket, but was a loose oil plug, back side of head) and would tell you it isn't that big of a deal to remove the head. Bet it wouldn't take but 1-1/2 hours to get it off (helps if you have a hoist)

Transferring the exhaust manifold W/turbo attached to a replacement head wont take too long either. It's a full days work, and the really only hard part, not really all that hard, is torquing the head bolts, everything else is easy, really!

Consider doing it yourself and save $3000, people here will guide you.