Yep, a hole in my turbo! easy fix?

[arcticathlon]

So my diesel purge finally came in and i cleaned out my car. well i did see some black smoke, but not too much. my friend came over with his camera and we took pictures of the lovely event. well i finally got to take a pic of the turbo hole.

you can see it below. when i rev the engine, air come out of the hole much faster. hot air of course. so can i just have it welded shut? what was attached there before?

and that fuel filter was sooo dirty. i was dumping out the diesel in it and it came out as dark, almost black, diesel. it ran so much better after i had primed it, and got her purring again.

let me know about that turbo...

Dan

[1985 300SD Sady]

The exhaust side of the turbocharger (where the hole is) is made of cast iron.

I have heard that it is not easy to weld cast iron, that you have to heat it up with a torch before you weld?

Best thing to do is to drive the car to a local welder, and ask if they could do it. You will probably have to remove the turbocharger..

[R Leo]

Maybe you can drill and tap the hole and thread in a brass or stainless plug.

[Graham]

Originally Posted by 1985 300SD Sady

The exhaust side of the turbocharger (where the hole is) is made of cast iron.

I have heard that it is not easy to weld cast iron, that you have to heat it up with a torch before you weld?

Best thing to do is to drive the car to a local welder, and ask if they could do it. You will probably have to remove the turbocharger..

How about using a high temperature epoxy? Like this?

http://www.aremco.com/a15.html

Here is a picture of a turbo, from another thread - don't see anything connected where hole is but this looks like a different turbo.

[JimmyL]

Originally Posted by Graham

How about using a high temperature epoxy? Like this?

http://www.aremco.com/a15.html

Here is a picture of a turbo, from another thread - don't see anything connected where hole is but this looks like a different turbo.

I think your arrows are pointing to the wrong area. It is more up at the top left. I tried to save image and highlight in 'paint', but it made the file too large.

[arcticathlon]

well my hole should be about where the red dot is. i hope that i dont have to remove the turbo, but i like the tapping idea. but then i would still ahve to remove it, as the iron shavings could not get lost in the turbo.

epoxy seems like an easy fix, but should i epoxy another piece of iron on it to cover it up?

also the car drives nice now, but since i have only had it for 3 weeks now, i am not sure if i ever drove it like it should be. that hole should be just about eliminating the turbo, right? make it like there is none?

Dan

[t walgamuth]

i would try some type of epoxy. something heat resistant. the guys talk about jb weld all the time. maybe that is a good choice. nix on welding and nix on tapping and plugging. first would warp and debris and second would make debris. yeah some piece of iron that is ground to be a close fit so that the glue just glues and doesnt act as fill would be good. good luck.

i dont really know if there is anything that will stand that much heat. i wouldnt be surprised it it will get red hot on a long hill.

tom w

[pberku]

You can buy some epoxy at Wal-Mart in the automotive section. I forget what its called, but it has the consistency of Mastic. You cut an appropriate amount with a knife, knead it for like dough, and apply it to the hole. (Sand the hole first).

This stuff is packaged in a clear plastic cylinder about 3/4" in Diameter and about 3"-4" tall. The Mastic itself is gray with a black inner core. You knead it until the inner and outer cores are intermixed. Apply it, wait 20 Min. (One Hr. is preferable) and you should be all set.

This stuff is unbelievable. It will withstand 500F, and is impervious to any liquid. It can be sanded, and painted. Once set, it should easily be able to withstand the exhaust pressures from the turbo.

This should be a permanent fix. Total cost about $5.00

Phil

[t walgamuth]

degrees red hot? i dont know.

tom w

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

degrees red hot? i dont know.

tom w

Uh the turbo can get glowing red hot (ie 500F+)
If you drive long enough..the turbo will get EASILY over 500 degrees under hard boost and driving.

Idling it will sit right around 300-400...maybe a bit lower with the oil cooling it. My pyro says 325F At idle

[Graham]

Originally Posted by JimmyL

I think your arrows are pointing to the wrong area. It is more up at the top left. I tried to save image and highlight in 'paint', but it made the file too large.

Jimmy - The arrows were already there! The picture came from a thread about adding boost control to a diesel.

[R Leo]

At full blatt, on a long grade, with stock boost settings that area will be seeing around 950°F temp so a 500° goo will probably burn right out.

FWIW, color in heated iron is almost undetecable in daylight below 1100°F. Cast iron will start to show a deep orange color around 1200°F....if you run hard enough to glow a turbine housing, you're well into the danger zone for these engines.

[dannym]

Hey,
Can you tap cast iron?
Maybe you can consider adding an exhaust temperature gauge.

I'm not so sure you can weld cast iron. I used to use OxyAcetylene torches to melt metal bolts off cast iron flanges.
The bolts would literaly melt off but there was no noticeable difference in the cast iron.
I'm thinking the epoxy is the way to go.

danny

[R Leo]

Originally Posted by dannym

Hey,
Can you tap cast iron?

I'm not so sure you can weld cast iron.
danny

Sure you can. How do you think the studs are installed in cylinder heads and manifolds? Transmogrification?

Cast iron can be brazed....carefully. You MUST preheat the casting.

[Brian Carlton]

Originally Posted by R Leo

Sure you can. How do you think the studs are installed in cylinder heads and manifolds? Transmogrification?

Cast iron can be brazed....carefully. You MUST preheat the casting.

I have the 617 head and manifolds off. I had the machinist run a 3/4 NPT tap in the exhaust port for the EGR. No more copper plate.