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  #1  
Old 08-31-2005, 03:22 PM
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Location: D.C.
Posts: 487
300TD Hydraulic Fluid

Hey all, this is a question for anyone with either general experience with hydraulic fluids and/or experience with the self leveling system on a 300TD Wagon.

Simply put: What can I put in my SLS besides that ridiculous MB $10/L stuff. I remember someone here mentioning that ISO 32 hydraulic fluid worked in a pinch, what about a more long-term type of use? What about power steering fluid? Does anyone here with a shop manual know what type of seals/materials are used in the pump, accumulators, lines, and struts? It seems logical that any fluid that is of relatively similar viscosity to the expensive gourmet @#!& and that is compatable with the seal materials, and can operate at the temperatures required (probably about -20°F to 180°F??)... Anyway, I thought this might open up a thread of inquiry that could lead to a more reasonable solution to the ridiculous cost of working on the SLS.

P.S. I am well aware of the "$10/L is a small price to pay" argument, considering everything else in the system is so expensive, but I maintain that there must be a better way... Figured I would do some research before I started experimenting

Information is greatly appreciated!

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  #2  
Old 08-31-2005, 11:37 PM
JimmyL's Avatar
Rogue T Intolerant!!!
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sunnyvale, Texas (DFW)
Posts: 9,675
Quote:
Originally Posted by GREASY_BEAST
Hey all, this is a question for anyone with either general experience with hydraulic fluids and/or experience with the self leveling system on a 300TD Wagon.

Simply put: What can I put in my SLS besides that ridiculous MB $10/L stuff. I remember someone here mentioning that ISO 32 hydraulic fluid worked in a pinch, what about a more long-term type of use? What about power steering fluid? Does anyone here with a shop manual know what type of seals/materials are used in the pump, accumulators, lines, and struts? It seems logical that any fluid that is of relatively similar viscosity to the expensive gourmet @#!& and that is compatable with the seal materials, and can operate at the temperatures required (probably about -20°F to 180°F??)... Anyway, I thought this might open up a thread of inquiry that could lead to a more reasonable solution to the ridiculous cost of working on the SLS.

P.S. I am well aware of the "$10/L is a small price to pay" argument, considering everything else in the system is so expensive, but I maintain that there must be a better way... Figured I would do some research before I started experimenting

Information is greatly appreciated!


Good grief, it's not like you burn through this stuff like diesel or gasoline. The "small price to pay" argument is simply a good one!
Randy has used the hyd. fluid from tractor supply without incident, but it isn't THAT much cheaper.
Save your money elsewhere, save your expensive components here.

***my next forum post "Hey, I don't have to completely fill my car up with oil do I? Can't I just put in half or so and save some $? I know the cost of an engine is expensive, but............
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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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  #3  
Old 09-01-2005, 02:09 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: D.C.
Posts: 487
oil

I understand the validity of your argument, but don't you think if there is a cheaper solution that is potentially just as good that it would be wise to exploit it? I was recently on a 500 mile trip where a leak developed in the high pressure hose coming from the pump. This cost me over $50 in hydraulic oil just to get home (so in terms of cost it is about the same as diesel per mile ), and will cost me another $20 or so to top it off... On the bright side I got some added rust proofing in the engine compartment and under the car Earlier this summer I replaced the accumulators and flushed the system, another $50 or so in oil, so all told I will have spent waaay more money than i would have had to if I had orignally bought a 5 gallon pail of hydraulic fluid from the local tractor supply guy... For a high school student like me these considerations are significant

Does Randy happen to go by the screen name RLeo?
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  #4  
Old 09-02-2005, 01:16 AM
JimmyL's Avatar
Rogue T Intolerant!!!
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sunnyvale, Texas (DFW)
Posts: 9,675
Quote:
Originally Posted by GREASY_BEAST
I understand the validity of your argument, but don't you think if there is a cheaper solution that is potentially just as good that it would be wise to exploit it? I was recently on a 500 mile trip where a leak developed in the high pressure hose coming from the pump. This cost me over $50 in hydraulic oil just to get home (so in terms of cost it is about the same as diesel per mile ), and will cost me another $20 or so to top it off... On the bright side I got some added rust proofing in the engine compartment and under the car Earlier this summer I replaced the accumulators and flushed the system, another $50 or so in oil, so all told I will have spent waaay more money than i would have had to if I had orignally bought a 5 gallon pail of hydraulic fluid from the local tractor supply guy... For a high school student like me these considerations are significant

Does Randy happen to go by the screen name RLeo?
RLeo is Randy's super-secret forum name!
Due to the subject matter of your original post, I didn't consider a leak with a long drive pending. A 5 gal bucket of tractor hyd. fluid would be a good idea under that condition. I was just referring to "normal" circumstances.
BTW, I have used tractor hyd fluid before. Different color, but worked. When Hyd system is intact, I would still use the orig. stuff.

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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