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  #1  
Old 09-01-2005, 06:28 PM
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Diesel purge killed my car?

I just changed the fuel filters, ran diesel purge, and now my car won't even start. I'm sure I missed a step somewhere. I replaced the large fuel filter and the in-line fuel filter. Then I ran the line from the in-line filter to my jar of purge. I ran the return line from the large filter back into the jar. I started the car (with both filters dry, is that where I screwed up?) and it ran for about 2 seconds then slowly died. I noticed that more than half the diesel purge is missing from the jar. I removed the jar, replaced the fuel lines the way they were and when I cranked it again it fired a few times but wouldn't run. Now it doesn't even fire when I crank it.

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1987 300SDL 167k
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  #2  
Old 09-01-2005, 06:33 PM
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You have introduced air into the system and will need to bleed it out. I would suggest doing a search for the procedure.

Good Luck,
Jim
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  #3  
Old 09-01-2005, 06:34 PM
d.delano's Avatar
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Don't worry, you just need to bleed the lines of air. Don't crank your starter to an early grave. Take the large canister fuel filter off, fill it with diesel or purge or ATF. Put it back on. Pump the hand primer pump for about five minutes straight. If you have the older white screw-off primer pump go easy on it, you might break it or cause it to leak. I mean pump until you are sick of pumping. Then get in the car and crank it over until it starts.

edit: but hey- don't you have a 603? My instructions were for a 617 but you may have similar engine anatomy. The principle remains the same- you have air in the fuel lines that you need to get out of the fuel lines, but you're car's not 'killed'.
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  #4  
Old 09-01-2005, 07:02 PM
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Unfortunately,the 603 has no hand primer pump.

So, you need to use the starter.

Fill the secondary filter with diesel fuel or purge, all the way to the top, and tighten it back up.

Make sure all the fuel lines are properly installed.

Then get in and crank it for 30 seconds. If it starts, great. If it doesn't, then wait five minutes to allow the starter to cool off. Then crank it for another 30 seconds. It should start after two of these attempts (total of 1 minute crank time).

If it doesn't start, report back and we'll try some further efforts.
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  #5  
Old 09-01-2005, 07:18 PM
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If that dont work

if brians advise does not work then unbolt one of the fuel lines to
a fuel injector and turn it over until fuel comes out... thus letting the air
out. fill up each filter and you might have to do all 5 fuel lines..
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  #6  
Old 09-01-2005, 08:33 PM
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I should have figured, I just didn't want to keep cranking and make it worse. The car runs like a dream now! I also found some detriorating fuel lines and a cracked vaccum line while I was at it, better now than on the side of the road. Thanks again for fixing my car!
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1987 300SDL 167k
1992 Volvo 740 140k
1990 Volvo 740 250k
1989 Volvo 240 269k

Anyone want to trade an old Volvo for an '87 300sdl?
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  #7  
Old 09-01-2005, 09:15 PM
87tdwagen's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
Unfortunately,the 603 has no hand primer pump.

So, you need to use the starter.
For those of us with a 603, do you think it would be readily possible to retro fit hand primers from a 617 to a 603? This would surely simplify the filter renewal process.

If given the option to purge air, I'd rather pump manually than wear out the starter. 60 secs of constant cranking is worth at least 20 start cycles, and as often as we change filters on these bad boys, the life of the starter can be significantly impacted over the long haul, IMO.

Any ideas?
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Last edited by Brian Carlton; 09-02-2005 at 12:38 AM.
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  #8  
Old 09-01-2005, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87tdwagen
...Any ideas?
Plumb in as close to the tank as you can a Facuet/Purlator 12v fuel pump. Put a small inline filter before it. There is a type made that screws right into the pump and has a nipple on it for the fuel line. Wire it in and hide the switch somewhere.

This pump is very small and fairly cheap. around 40 buks I think
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Glow Plug Wait: [i} Time of silence in homage Rudolph Diesel. Longer you own a diesel. more honor you give". [/i]

Life; SNAFU Situation Normal All Fouled Up, & FUBAR: Fouled Up Beyond All Repair

-Now: Snafued Jeep TJ w/OM617 2Be daily driver & building SS M1079 w/Ambo boxed /live in Adv. Truck, Diesel KLR conversion
-Sold 62 UNIMOG Camper w/617 Turbo, 85 300SD

Last edited by Brian Carlton; 09-02-2005 at 12:39 AM.
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  #9  
Old 09-01-2005, 09:45 PM
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Great idea, why pump when you can flip a switch, luckily the wagon gas a great spot on either side of the rear for a nice hidden, yet easy to get to spot for the pump.

I'm sure the same can be done up nice in a trunk as well
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  #10  
Old 09-02-2005, 12:37 AM
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I think you fellows are worried about nothing.

If you dump the secondary and fill it up with fresh fuel, you only need to crank it for two seconds and it will run. It will stay running for about five seconds and stall. Repeat the start, a few more seconds of cranking, and it will run and stay running.

Unless you run it out of fuel, like was done here, you won't need that 12V pump.

Even in this case, he got it started without too much trouble. No cracking of injector lines was necessary.
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  #11  
Old 09-02-2005, 06:17 AM
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Hey'all,

Responding to title on this thread am wondering why anybody uses expensive toxic junk Diesel Purge. For the same $20 you can be using enough DieselKleen to treat several hundred gallons of fuel, makin the engine run BETTER than Diesel Purge can do all of the time.
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  #12  
Old 09-02-2005, 06:38 AM
Brandon314159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 240DieselDog
Hey'all,

Responding to title on this thread am wondering why anybody uses expensive toxic junk Diesel Purge. For the same $20 you can be using enough DieselKleen to treat several hundred gallons of fuel, makin the engine run BETTER than Diesel Purge can do all of the time.
The diesel purge is sorta like a coolant system acid flush (but for your fuel system). You don't have to do it very often, and should do it occasionaly. The worse fuel (or coolant) that you run the more often you would have to do it.

You can get good coolant (good fuel) or treat it with treatments (such as the dieselkleen) and not have to acid/purge the system as often.

Dieselkleen can do a lot in the long run but as far as doing a good strong fast clean...the straight Diesel Purge (or similar) stuff gets the job done
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  #13  
Old 09-02-2005, 09:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 240DieselDog
Hey'all,

Responding to title on this thread am wondering why anybody uses expensive toxic junk Diesel Purge. For the same $20 you can be using enough DieselKleen to treat several hundred gallons of fuel, makin the engine run BETTER than Diesel Purge can do all of the time.
I'm not sure why you think it's junk. You should have been there when I did the purge, it's like a different car now! It runs smooth, no shakes, it starts instantly, these are very dramatic and obvious improvements. I suspect that maintenance on this car was not performed regularly and that is why I am seeing such drastic results from just cleaning things out. Putting additives in your tank is good preventative maintenance but it won't knock the crud out of your injectors in 10 minutes (too diluted).
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1987 300SDL 167k
1992 Volvo 740 140k
1990 Volvo 740 250k
1989 Volvo 240 269k

Anyone want to trade an old Volvo for an '87 300sdl?
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  #14  
Old 09-02-2005, 10:38 AM
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Diesel purge doesn't kill cars...
People kill cars.
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Robert
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  #15  
Old 09-02-2005, 10:47 AM
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Why bother with DP? Run some B100. It'll probably clean everything out.

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