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#1
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Trying to diagnose bad driveshaft center bearing
This post is in regard to a 1983 300TD wagon, with 322,000 miles. The car is still running strong.
Last week, I heard what were "classic" halfshaft gone bad noises from the rear. I replaced the passenger side halfshaft less than a year ago, and it still looks good. The driver's side halfshaft had dry rot on the boots, so that got replaced this past Friday. When I drained the differential, all looked fine and normal, no metal shaving/particles in the drained fluid. After putting it all back together, the noises persist. What is strange, the noises range from clicking, to a almost metal on metal grind, to a whir. The noises are most noted at slower speeds; while speeding up, and while slowing down. At 55-60mph, it almost sounds normal, but with a 'snow tires' on dry pavement type sound. My research here indicates that it is more than likely the driveshaft center bearing. Is there anyway I can tell for certain? I got under the car to inspect it, and it seemed to look fine, but I don't really know what to look for. Is this an item that would normally need to be replaced on a car with such high mileage? Aside from the halfshafts, is there anything else that it could be? Both the front and rear flex plates look really good, incidently. No dry rot, no cracks. Also, what do the 8mm and 12mm refer to when buying a halfshaft? I bought an 8mm last year, and got another last week for the driver's side. It's bugging me that I cant' remember what that references. Thanks to all. Damon
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1984 300TD Wagon--Astral Silver--Retired 1983 300TD Wagon--Dark Blue--Retired |
#2
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dont know 8 from 12
but i would grab the ds next to the center bearing and shake really hard. if it wiggles it is bad. if good it should give only as much as rubber will give. not much at all.
tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. ![]() ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#3
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thank you for the reply.
i shook the center bearing and it did seem to have some play. how rigid are we talking here?
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1984 300TD Wagon--Astral Silver--Retired 1983 300TD Wagon--Dark Blue--Retired |
#4
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I got a variety of clunky/whiny/clicky/grinding noises awhile back when the linings delaminated from the parking brake shoes.
I had a center driveshaft bearing go dry once on an Audi. It made a noise you wouldn't forget, like a warbling banshee. Of course, if the center bearing carrier has torn, the shaft will want to bang against the driveshaft tunnel, especially when accelerating. At least, that's what I've read. I've never experienced that failure myself... |
#5
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Here is a shot of one that I have recommended to a "customer" that he replace over the next 4 weeks. You would not believe the knocking noise this one makes during hard acceleration, right hand turns. It is noisy as all get out.
If you look closely at the pic you can see my gloved finger throught he gap of the support. I have recommended sending it to Driveline Service of Atlanta for a complete rebuild.
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Jim |
#6
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[QUOTE=Maki]I got a variety of clunky/whiny/clicky/grinding noises awhile back when the linings delaminated from the parking brake shoes.
Wow. Interesting take on this problem. My parking brake has not worked for years, and the brakes in the rear are very close to needing new pads (lots of wear). When you say the linings delaminated from the shoes, what do you mean? Just try to explain this like you're explaining it to a child. ![]() I guess this especially caught my attention because at times the car almost feels like it's forward movement is being impeded by this problem. So a possible brake hang up would kind of make sense. I do know that both rear calipers are working properly and not hung/frooze up.
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1984 300TD Wagon--Astral Silver--Retired 1983 300TD Wagon--Dark Blue--Retired |
#7
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delam
means that the brake lining material has separated from the metal backing plate and is free to wander around back there doing whatever wild and crazy things it wants instead of only doing your bidding.
tom w
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. ![]() ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#8
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Quote:
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1984 300TD Wagon--Astral Silver--Retired 1983 300TD Wagon--Dark Blue--Retired |
#9
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My W126 had a very noticable driveshaft vibration from 45-55. Today I pulled the driveshaft and upon inspection I found the bearing to be a little dry and the rubber support to be off center. I will know if that was the problem in a few days I am just waiting on a few parts.
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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#10
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Quote:
Rather than try to describe the procedure, here's a page from the repair manual: http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/service/W123/w123CD2/Program/Maintenance/MY81/4261.pdf HTH |
#11
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Quote:
If the bearing or rubber support are obviously damaged looking, then you know you need to replace them, but keep in mind that they can look perfectly fine and still make a lot of noise. The bearing is not very well protected, and once water and road grit make their way inside, it doesn't take long for it to go bad.
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![]() 1989 250TD Wagon 5-speed, 160,000mi ::: Dark gray metallic / black cloth 1984 190D-2.2 5-speed, 287,000mi ::: Silver-blue metallic / black MB-tex ::: SOLD ![]() |
#12
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The bolt that holds the axle in the hub was 12mm on earlier models and 8mm on later models. The 3 keys to replacing the axles properly are:Use the differential shim from the old axle. Use the tube type hub spacer from the old axle. Don't tighten the hub bolt too tight. It has a light torque.
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Auto Zentral Ltd. |
#13
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o.k. While checking the driver's side rear brake assembly for the delaminated parking brake, I think I found the real problem. I took the wheel, caliper, and rotor all off. No parking brake shoes at all, everything was removed evidently years ago. Guess that explains why my parking brake doesn't work. Anyway, I spun the wheel hub and found the noise. So I believe the actual diagnosis is a terribly bad rear wheel bearing.
Problem is, after reading about replacing the rear wheel bearing, I don't know if I should be glad that it's not the center driveshaft bearing. It almost sounds like that would have been easier? I don't know. So here's my thought, which is probably ridiculous and idealistic. Is there such a thing as buying a rebuilt rear hub assembly, as opposed to replacing the bearing. You know, 'let someone else do it because I don't want to' type thing. If not, can I just remove the hub and take it to someone for repair? Thanks for you help.
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1984 300TD Wagon--Astral Silver--Retired 1983 300TD Wagon--Dark Blue--Retired |
#14
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You really need a special tool to remove that hub. You might want to have it professionally done.
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Auto Zentral Ltd. |
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