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  #16  
Old 10-31-2005, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68882
Other lists have noted that if you use Mobil 1 synthetic oil, it can take upwards of 7 hours before you get an accurate reading. There is thought that because of the way the molecules work (polar alignment) they are sticky and stick to metal so the time for *all* the oil to drain into the crank case is long. Remember the oil manufacture is trying to ensure a film of oil is left on all surfaces for later cold starting purposes.
I believe the notion that synthetic "sticks" to your engine internals and requires longer drain times is a complete myth. From my observation the only thing that will make your oil stick better is Lucas Oil Stabilizer. I've been using synthetic for the last couple years and I've observed the oil level is approximately the same whether the car sits overnight or whether you check the oil hot. Hot oil takes up more volume, but cold oil will have completely drained to the oil pan, resulting in about the same dipstick reading. In any case I would not recommend running below the low mark on the dipstick. It's there for a reason.

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  #17  
Old 10-31-2005, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselAddict
In any case I would not recommend running below the low mark on the dipstick. It's there for a reason.
OK, I'll bite.

What reason would that be? The 603 holds 8 quarts of oil. You think it's going to scream if you run it on six quarts?

I've seen gassers run perfectly fine on one quart. As long as you have oil pressure, the engine doesn't care what's in the sump.

The engine won't be damaged if you run it two quarts low.
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  #18  
Old 10-31-2005, 02:24 PM
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Sure, there's a buffer and it's there to maintain oil pressure in case you have gradual oil loss for some reason. Also if you go too far below the minimum mark on the dipstick you may start to lose oil pressure when going up steep hills or when making sharp turns. I don't know about you but I'd rather have at least the minimum recommended amount of oil in my engine.
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  #19  
Old 11-01-2005, 12:51 PM
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The only downside I could see for running a few quarts low besides the potential for G-related oil starvation is that the oil won't be as cooled when it gets recirculated back through the motor. Not sure if thats a big deal on the water cooled cars, but its pretty important on my air cooled cars.
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  #20  
Old 11-01-2005, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luvthe111
The only downside I could see for running a few quarts low besides the potential for G-related oil starvation is that the oil won't be as cooled when it gets recirculated back through the motor. Not sure if thats a big deal on the water cooled cars, but its pretty important on my air cooled cars.
I think you are correct. The 8 quarts that are present in the diesel has nothing to do with G forces. If it did, then all the 5 quart gassers would be starving on the turns. The temperature concern is the issue. But, these engines were designed in a day when synthetic oil did not widely exist. So, today, with the use of synthetic, the oil can run much hotter and still perform the desired task.

I'd be more than willing to bet that these engines would be completely fine running at 6 quarts (2 quarts low) on a full synthetic.

In fact, I might just continue to run the 603 at 6 quarts to prove the point.
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  #21  
Old 11-01-2005, 01:51 PM
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David is running his 603 without an oil cooler, so these engines are pretty tough.
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  #22  
Old 11-11-2005, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
OK, I'll bite.

What reason would that be? The 603 holds 8 quarts of oil. You think it's going to scream if you run it on six quarts?

I've seen gassers run perfectly fine on one quart. As long as you have oil pressure, the engine doesn't care what's in the sump.

The engine won't be damaged if you run it two quarts low.

I must tell everybody that my aforementioned conclusion is patently false.

I was returning from CT on my weekly jaunt when the engine sounded a bit funny...........like a ticking lifter. Could barely hear it over the noise of the radio. Turned the radio off and it was definitely there. A slight ticking sound.

Stopped at my father's house after about 30 miles of this noise. At idle, outside the vehicle, something was definitely wrong. The engine has taken on a thrashing noise in the valve train with proununced ticking. Sounded bad.

Now, I already know that I'm running on something close to 5.5 quarts of oil.

So, I shut it off and put two quarts in it. A fast check of the stick after 10 minutes shows it to be about half way between the lines. So, it's good to go.

Start it up and the noise is still present for about 2-3 miles. Took it back onto the highway and the noise disappears. 15 miles later, back at idle, outside the vehicle, it's back to its old self.

The oil pressure, at idle never dropped below it's usual 1.8. There was never any indication, from the gauge, that there was an oil pressure problem.

But, it was unmistakable. For reasons that I don't entirely fathom, the lifter gallery was definitely suffering from oil starvation at this oil level (5.5 quarts) even though there was no drop of oil pressure at the gauge mounting point.


So, a word to the wise:

Don't run the 603 more than 1.5 quarts below the full mark.
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  #23  
Old 11-11-2005, 01:08 PM
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I still don't understand why anyone would want to intentionally run his or her car low on oil. Were you trying to save a few bucks by buying fewer quarts of oil for your oil change?
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  #24  
Old 11-11-2005, 01:21 PM
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I explained that my situation with the 603 involves leaking turbo seals as best as I can determine. When running full of oil, or at anything above 1 quart low, the entire cabin and trunk take on the smell of unburnt Rotella syn. So, running the engine a bit low helps this significantly.

The final solution is to rebuild the turbo, but I can't take this vehicle off the road until the SD is running again...........hopefully this weekend.
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  #25  
Old 11-11-2005, 01:38 PM
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Well that makes more sense now.
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  #26  
Old 11-11-2005, 09:31 PM
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When I first put The 84 300TD on the road, it would run hot on a long climb, (up to the ski resort where I was working) and subsquently the oil pressure would fluxuate down to about 1.8-2.0 Bar....

Which caused mild panic, SO, I pulled the oil pan (which was bashed in by some PO) and found the rubber oil screen/pick up was compressed up and into itself... and flushed the cooling system.... Also My car's oil level will still show wild varations on the dip stick. somtimes after sitting over night, some times for two or three days in a row, then it reappears. What I have discovered Is:
upon checking the oil right after it has been running, then it reads at least at the bottom of the 'Add' mark. and there have been times that It will be off the bottom of the dipstick....

which implies that there is not much oil in the sump. The first time I discovered no oil on the dipstick, was after a fuel stop, had filled the tank, and made a pit stop myself. so that was at least 10 minutes. there was barely a trace of oil on the dip stick. Now How can oil that had to be warm (350 miles of steady 55 mph) take 10 minutes to migrate back to the sump?

well 6 or so quarts made it back in time to be accounted for.(I didnt know that at the time, so I added about 2 quarts of oil thinking that it was low on oil) upon getting home I discovered that it was 2 quarts over filled...

It seems that the car will hold about a quart and a half in the oil pan, (that does not make it back to the sump) If it is not sitting just 'right' (tilted to the rear even just the slightest)
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  #27  
Old 11-21-2005, 11:29 PM
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You guys think thats bad? Try driving a 603 that guzzles a qt every 100 miles. Nails like crazy. And also has problems starting, and provokes the local authorities while driving it.

Pull the oil and take a big whiff of that dipstick. Make a wish, because it smells like it's your birthday!
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  #28  
Old 11-22-2005, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DslBnz
You guys think thats bad? Try driving a 603 that guzzles a qt every 100 miles. Nails like crazy. And also has problems starting, and provokes the local authorities while driving it.

Pull the oil and take a big whiff of that dipstick. Make a wish, because it smells like it's your birthday!

I wish for a new short block! Are you going to fix that thing or wait for the rod to punch a hole in the block? You should have fixed it when it first started burning oil you probably could have gotten away with just re sleeving and reboring one cylinder. Throw in an updated set of rods and maybe some rings and bearings for the heck of it.

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