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#31
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Inspired
I was inspired to flush my pump after reading this post. Besides, I had a filter just waiting to be used. It turned out to be a slight comedy of errors. Luckily I had a beautiful assistant to grudgingly help me.
My comments to the experience I had with my SD are this: 1. You don't have to move the washer fluid tank for the SD (one would figure that out for themselves when they go to try it, so nothing big here) 2. Disconnect the hose at the upper end, on the pump side and stick the hose in a milk jug. I know it was the return line, so why I disconnected it at the bottom and let a pool of fluid spill collect on the floor, I don't know... 3. Make sure you didn't leave you door open all night and drain the battery. 4. Push the car out of the garage and next to your beautiful assistants car and attempt to jump start it. 5. Remember that the hose is disconnected and the pump is running after disconnecting jumper cables. Sprint back in garage to get flushing oil and pour in pump as quick as possible. 6. Think, "damn, this stuff does go quick!" and start pouring quart number too. * Important note:, next time (which will be soon) use a gallon to flush. At least for me, this went so fast beautiful assistant could only turn the wheel to one lock. Also, this crap was nasty red. I'm wondering if previous mechanics used tranny fluid the last time this was done, or if it was original... 7. Have assistant turn off car to relieve her of her duty. Replace filter and put return hose back on and then realize battery did not charge back up in the minute or two it was on. 8. Get assistant back to help jump car. Once started, pour whatever power steering fluid you want back in to the pump. Have Beautiful, but not to happy assistant, turn lock to lock to pump it through. 9. This time, tell beautiful assistant she is done for good. Go for a drive, check fluid and think "Dammit! My fancy new synthetic fluid is all red and nasty again." ie. see important note above. 10. Do it again sometime soon, cause you didn't do it right the first time. Even if it is better than it was. Just for another bit of info, it only seemed to take about a half quart to fill the pump back up. The flush (two quarts) and old fluid filled up about 2/3 of a gallon milk jug, which worked quite well by the way.
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B - 1983 300SD |
#32
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Having said that... I think a quality PS fluid would work well also, but it is still a fact that ATF is the specified fluid for a 123. Newer fluids/synthetics may have a higher detergent capability and wash the "trash" from seals and cause leaks but an older fluid like type "F" should be safe in a well cared for system. Of course MB would like us all to buy their overpriced fluid ! Anyone out there have a 123 with factory manual steering (Non-power) ?
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Diesel-guy |
#33
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Sorry I struck a nerve, whunter... but I'm still curious.
Pages 84-85 in the owners manual, my 1981 300SD: Automatic transmission: Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) Power steering: Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) No notation of Type F, Mercon, or PS fluid. Perhaps they both take Type F fluid. Is it possible to argue that they take two separate fluids, given the language in the MB factory publication? |
#34
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Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#35
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Flash forward to the future! A new type of ATF has been created, and the Type A is rarely used anymore. This new ATF works great in our old automatic transmissions, but does not work in our power steering systems. Also in this time period, new power steering fluids were developed. These new fluids work find in our power steering systems. So... Use a Mercon/Dextron ATF in your transmission, and EITHER a Type A ATF or a modern PS fluid in your power steering. Modern ATF can cause your power steering to leak. With old cars like this you can dicker all day about whether to follow the manual, or follow technology. Is ATF Type A so perfectly suited for the power steering system that no fluid (even ones not invented yet) will ever work as well? Or is modern PS fluid BETTER than ATF Type A? Maybe! Or maybe not. Its hard to say, really. But people have a lot of miles on a lot of cars using the regular PS fluid, so it clearly works dandy, and is easier to find than Type A ATF. Clear as mud? ![]() peace, sam Edit: Palangi was right. ![]()
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"That f***in' biodiesel is makin' me hungry." 1982 300TD Astral Silver w/ 250k (BIO BNZ) 2001 Aprilia SR50 Corsa Red w/ 5.5k (>100 MPG) Last edited by phidauex; 11-15-2005 at 12:49 PM. |
#36
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Not meaning to muddy things up, but I thought type A was equivalent to the older type ATF. Type F was for Phords. Both types can still be found in this area. I use PS fluid in mt MB PS systems however.
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Palangi 2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz 2008 ML320 CDI Highway Cruiser 2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg 2000 F-150, Destroying the Planet @ 20 mpg TRUMP .......... WHITEHOUSE HILLARY .........JAILHOUSE BERNIE .......... NUTHOUSE 0BAMA .......... OUTHOUSE |
#37
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Hmm. Maybe you are right, palangi... I don't remember for sure. I thought it was Type F, but I could be wrong. I do know that cars other than Fords specified a Type F, like Saab and Volvo, but I don't know for sure that MB specified the Type F.
Muddy indeed... Just use a regular PS fluid. ![]() peace, sam
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"That f***in' biodiesel is makin' me hungry." 1982 300TD Astral Silver w/ 250k (BIO BNZ) 2001 Aprilia SR50 Corsa Red w/ 5.5k (>100 MPG) |
#38
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Yes...whatever fluid y'all decide to use, get the "Mud" out of that power steering system. Clean fluid is good fluid ![]()
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Diesel-guy |
#39
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Type A is the stuff. If you ever look at Type F you will see the difference, it is brown rather than red.
I have a tip for all you power steering flushers. I flushed the p/s system on my Vette this weekend and the hose didn't quite reach down to my drain pan since the car was on the lift and a foot or so off the floor. I was afraid that the hose would flop around out of the drain pan and make a mess. I found a really neat p/s system flushing container in the trash in the form of an Hawaiian Punch one gallon container. It is clear, of adequate volume, with a cap and best of all it has a plastic bail on top. I put the hose down into the jug and used a tie wrap to fasten the hose to the bail of the jug so that it wouldn't sling out of the jug. I flushed the system and could easily see when it was no longer throwing fluid. After finishing I simply cut the tie wrap, put on the cap and it is now all ready to take for recycling. An added bonus is that I can easily see how dirty the fluid was. If I were going to design something specifically for the purpose I couldn't have done much better than a one gallon Hawaiian Punch jug. I guess the next time I need to flush the p/s I'll throw a party and make sure everyone brings a gallon of Hawaiian Punch. Hope this helps, |
#40
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In spirit your statement is correct, but in this particular case the fluid choice should not be taken so lightly. The reason is that in a power steering system of the seventies and eighties, Mercon/Dexron will destroy the seals. Use Type A a/t fluid or power steering fluid. DON'T use Mercon. Have a great day, |
#41
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Haven't had Hawaiian PUnch in 35 years....They still make that???and where do you get a 1 gallon size???
[wouldn't a gallon jug of like bottled water work out too???]
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'87 924S '81 280SEL Sold -> 81 300SD - 93 300E w/ 3.2 85 300D- 79 300SD 82 300CD 83 300CD - CA 87 190E 5 spd 87 Porsche 924S "..I'll take a simple "C" to "G" and feel brand new about it..." ![]() |
#42
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Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#43
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Larry, I don't know where you are getting your type "F" at, but the stuff I use is bright red. I don't know of anyone who uses type "A" anymore for anything.
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Diesel-guy |
#44
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Type "F" is approved for PS units where specified by the auto manufacturer. If anyone has an old bottle of "A" or any other type of ATF that specifies similar, please chime in and quote the spec. for our information. Once saw a data sheet comparing F and dex, type "F" has better lubricating properties. Side note: I rebuild an occasional tranny and I use Mobil 1 synthetic or type "F" fluid almost exclusively. Type "F" has been used for racing tranny's for many years because of it's excellent performance charachteristics. Firmer shifting and good lubrication. Of course our PS systems don't have clutches but they do need good lubrication. My opinion-Dirty fluid is probably the cause of more PS leaks than the type of fluid used. I mostly agree with Larry (except the type "A" thing ![]() ![]()
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Diesel-guy |
#45
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I'm thinking of doing this on my w123. Any harm in disposing of fluid into the fuel tank?
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1989 300E 144K |
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