I will be attempting to install this K1 spring kid in my 722.303 (82-300sd) I found a how- on MBZ.org but lost the link and there arent any pictures. Does anyone have any proceedure / pictures on how to do this properly? Can it be done with jack-stands? or do i need a lift? I will probably be doing this on Saturday.

Thanks Guys..


Kris

PM me your email and I will send you the pictorial directions on the K1. You'll be disappointed how easy it is to do. No need for a lift, jack stands are just fine. And as far as how the springs go back in.. just pay attention to how the old ones come out, and put it back together the same way. I'll send my phone with the email so you can call with any questions.. Since you have to drain the fluid and take the pan off anyway, I'd recommend changing the filter while you're there.. I noticed a good improvement when I did my K1..

__________________
'79 300D, Ivory "Gunther" ......going
'81 300SD, Metallic Blue Silver, The Grey Ghost.....going
'87 300D Turbo ...gone
'05 CDI.... gone

You don't even need jackstands other than for more room. I did it without lifting the car at all, just reach under.

__________________
'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

what is a k1 spring kit?

__________________
82 300D....went to MB heaven
90 350 SDL....excercising con rods

a few springs and plunger that replace similar parts in valve body. Increases pressure to K1 piston that frequently improves 2-3 shift flare when caused by worn teflon seals or clutch pack seals.

__________________
'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

so my flare is caused by worn teflon seals and/or clutch pack seals? The K1 spring itself isnt a cause?

-Kris

I just changed the filter not more than 2,000miles ago...

PM Sent.

Is there any point in doing this on a car that you noticed this problem on?

I have a 300TD that I haven't driven with the bowden cable connected. I bought it with a broken cable. I have a replacement cable and a new transmission filter. While I have the transmission apart to replace the filter and cable should I install the updated kit?

-Tad

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1995 G320
2003 C230 Kompressor Coupe
2005 ML500
2007 ML350

thanks for the pdf...quite helpfull...ill be doin this project this weekend...but if this doesnt help (i think it will thou) what am i looking at doing ? / having done ?

Search for transmission adjustments.. There are bowden cable, vacuum regulator, and transmission modulator adjustments you can make that will affect the behaviour of the transmission..

__________________
'79 300D, Ivory "Gunther" ......going
'81 300SD, Metallic Blue Silver, The Grey Ghost.....going
'87 300D Turbo ...gone
'05 CDI.... gone

K1 installed. I have not noticed any improvements to my shifting dilema. 2-3 still flares 50-1000rpms. It shifts fine at full throttle. When at 1/4 or less to 1/2 it shifts 1-2 fine but 2-3 flares like no tomorrow. 3-4 is fine. When I had the bowden cable adjusted out (all the way) so the tranny shifted ~3500rpm it was fine also...no flares..I dont quite know how to PROPERLY adjust this cable. Does the metal plate it snaps on to have to be right against the other metal plate on the linkage (there is a metal stopper-like device on it) or does it sit away from it...how much tension should be in the line...how much play?..also my front seal is leaking...probably should have that replaced..its $400 for that...that might be effecting my shifting too...

these MB trannys give me headaches.

if all my efforts fail its going to a tranny shop..i have to find one that does imports. most of the shops round here wont do MBs. If by some far of chance i need a new transmission...this one will be driven until it is really dead and ill drop in a 722 tranny with Overdrive or something....i doubt this thing needs replaced. I dont know how much it would cost to repair those seals (clutch pack--teflon)

all this leaves me very

any suggestions..proceedures..advice..

thanks

kris

Try turning the modulator back clockwise. Just move it one notch at a time an notice the shifting difference. You will get firmer shifts 1-2 but your 2-3 will flare less.