I have a completely Torn rear axle rubber boot on my 1985 W123 300D--you know, that boot that looks like a CV joint boot, and its literally split into two separate sections....
I wanted to do a really good fix--something Halfway between replacing it entirely (and pulling the axle) or just using Duct Tape. I kind of remember there being some slip on kit or sleeve...

I had this problem a few months ago. I ended up with a used axle from a local guy for $50 that was diecent. The problem is that MB does sell a kit to reboot them, The metal cans on the end have to be taken off and new ones (included with kit) have to be crimped on. You can probably hammer the lip around and do a secure (not pretty) job yourself, but no axle shop around here would touch them. Do a search I remember a place in Colorado somewhere on the fourm that will rebuild yours at a good (not great) price.

The axle comes out in 20 minutes, if you have a used spare, it will take you an hour to swap (including the clean up time spilling axle fluid all over )

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Adam Lumsden
(83) 300D
Vice-President of the MBCA International Stars Section

Best to replace the entire thing unless you know exactly how long that boot has been ripped. I used to replace the things all the time on my Subaru. The problem is you have no idea how long it has been ripped. All the time dirt, water and gunk has been getting in. So you pull the axle and replace the boot only to have it start to make noise 6 months down the road.

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'85 300SD (formerly california emissions)
'08 Chevy Tahoe
'93 Ducati 900 SS
'79 Kawasaki KZ 650
'86 Kawasaki KX 250
'88 Kawasaki KDX200
'71 Hodaka Ace 100
'72 Triumph T100R

Once the boot is torn replacing it is the only way to fix it. Once dirt and sand gets in their it is only a matter of time before the CV joint clunks.

When the time comes for mine I'll just buy Autozone rebuilds. The quality may not be perfect but they are good enough. They have a lifetime warranty and the price is right so thats what matters.

Besides rwd diesels don't exactly put a lot pressure on these.

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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

See my thread here about the carquest rebuilt axles.

Reman axle came apart

cliffnote: stay away from the annular axles (innner joint bolts on to the axle)

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'84 300CD Turbo 132k (Anthracite Grey) - WVO - My daily driver - Recently named coo-coo-coupe by my daughter.
'84 300D Turbo 240k (Anthracite Grey) - Garage Queen
'83 300D Turbo 220k (Orient Red) - WVO - Wifes daily driver

I'm not a certified mechanic, but I did stay at a HolidayInn Express last night.

Thanks!

I was thinking the same issue. My rear axle boots are cracked. I talked to a CV rebuilder and he said he can reboot them for 15 dollars an axle if I carry them in.....

Perhaps thats the way to go???

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91 350SD
14 F150 Eco
19 Fusion Hybrid
11 GT500

$15 per axle (yeah right). I don't believe that for a second. There are two cans required per axle. So the guy will replace them for $7.50 each can including the parts............LOL.

Call CVJ axles in Denver for good quality rebuilds. If you value your time, replace both sides at the same time. The diff needs to be drained and the rear diff plate needs to be resealed.

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84 300DT Puke Yellow. Totalled after 438,000
84 300DT Orient Red. 169,000 (actual mileage may vary)
2002 Explorer EB (wife's)

Oops, 15 per side. This is not rebuilding, this is re-booting them. They do CV axles for 80 bucks installed on most FWD cars. Been using them for a long long time. He told me if I carry them in, he'll put new boots on the shafts for 15 per side. So 60 bucks but I have to remove the shafts first.....I dont know whats invovled that.....

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91 350SD
14 F150 Eco
19 Fusion Hybrid
11 GT500

There IS a special fixture required to roll the edge of the new cups.
I have done this many times and used an anvil edge to tap the cans closed

Just don't pull everything apart until you get the new boot kits.
You can clean up the cv guts as long as you remember where/how you dismantled it.....if you don't, it will 'click' at low speeds....ask me how I know !


.

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[http://languageandgrammar.com/2008/01/14/youve-got-problems-not-issues/ ]

"A liberal is someone who feels they owe a great debt to their fellow man, which debt he proposes to pay off with your money."

I hope you are catching them pretty quickly once you notice the rip in the boot. Just one day of driving in the rain will throw some nasties in there. Then rebooting them will be like pissing in the wind.

__________________
'85 300SD (formerly california emissions)
'08 Chevy Tahoe
'93 Ducati 900 SS
'79 Kawasaki KZ 650
'86 Kawasaki KX 250
'88 Kawasaki KDX200
'71 Hodaka Ace 100
'72 Triumph T100R

Only one can is required to be replaced. CVJ was the axle place I was thinking of. There is a MB kit for the inner joint and another for the outer. The only difference is that one has a metal can (don't remember which). They come with boot, can, clamps, and grease, for around $40 I think but don't quote me on that price.

__________________
Adam Lumsden
(83) 300D
Vice-President of the MBCA International Stars Section

Wow nevermind then. I'll just spring for good rebuilds when the time comes. Sometimes cheaping out ends up costing you in the long run.

__________________
2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

1984 300d Turbo 134k
Buy New Ones $325.00 No Core Charge. Diy Maybe 3 Hrs **************.com Has Guide Books

IF the boots are worn but not torn what is the opinion on coating them w/ a rubber gasket type sealant?
I put rubber accordian fork protectors on a motorcycle once and didn't want to take the forks off so I cut the rubber 'gaitors' and reglued w/ a black rubber sealant. The rubber was under constant movement for over 5 years w/out tearing.
My boots are not torn or leaking but look rough. I am thinking of giving them a good cleaning and then coating w/ this sealant. Waste of time and money?

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82 300D....went to MB heaven
90 350 SDL....excercising con rods