I already tried WD-40 which, as Brandon said, was ineffective. The engine getting fuel as when the lines are loosened, fuel does come out as the engine is cranked.

A thought occured to me: I adjusted the valves when it was 90 degrees out and the block heater brings the block up to 90 as well. In summer I never had to glow it, it started well without them, same as on the block heater. I'm wondering if a readjustment is in order now that there is frost on the engine?

__________________
'84 190d 2.2 - Silver
Converted to 5-Speed
'84 190d 2.2 - Blue
Factory 5-Speed

'76 300D (W115)
Sold, found again in less auspicious circumstances

Ya sure your glow plugs are getting power?

That is very fishy...

The plugs are getting juice. The multimeter read 11 volts on all the plugs. It's all very weird.......

__________________
'84 190d 2.2 - Silver
Converted to 5-Speed
'84 190d 2.2 - Blue
Factory 5-Speed

'76 300D (W115)
Sold, found again in less auspicious circumstances

And there is no air in the fuel line or anything preventing a start?

Fuel primed and everything? No leaks?

Very odd...its not cold enough around here to keep your engine no go...

There's TWO ways to find out if, in fact, the glows are getting red hot and for how long....

1/ Amp clamp on B+ supply wire. 80+ amps initial, dropping to about 40 amps and holding for 6 to 40 seconds.

2/ Remove injectors and watch for tips glowing...I prefer this way, you can see if each one is getting/staying red..




.

__________________
[http://languageandgrammar.com/2008/01/14/youve-got-problems-not-issues/ ]

"A liberal is someone who feels they owe a great debt to their fellow man, which debt he proposes to pay off with your money."

above, sounds like glow plugs are not working.

tom w

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

And you have tried a small shot of ether during the crank?

I am not a ether fan. On my Toyota diesel it is more of a no no....Not sure on a Mercedes.

But I had a Izuzu that HAD to have ether, it was in a version of a bobcat.

Small squirt, while cranking. That'll light it regardless of glowplugs.

I have heard of a in cab system for ether. Make a sick engine run on forever....

__________________
77 300D- new to me, lots of "issues" to deal with. But a nice unit.
Diesel man- 84 Toyota Diesel cruiser

Actually I've been up and running for a while now. I had contaminated fuel. Drained the tank & refilled and I was on my way.

__________________
'84 190d 2.2 - Silver
Converted to 5-Speed
'84 190d 2.2 - Blue
Factory 5-Speed

'76 300D (W115)
Sold, found again in less auspicious circumstances

Awesome!

mac2

Thats great, and thanks for the follow up, its always nice to hear the end of the story.

dkveuro

i'm gona try your "removing the injectors" method next time. ....I remove the hard lines anyway to get the GPs out so pulling the injectors would be easy. I dont always replace the sealing washers tho I like the idea of actually seeing the GPs glowing down in the hole.

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

No need to always renew the injector seat seals.....if they look clean, reuse them.

.

__________________
[http://languageandgrammar.com/2008/01/14/youve-got-problems-not-issues/ ]

"A liberal is someone who feels they owe a great debt to their fellow man, which debt he proposes to pay off with your money."

Or if they look a little "too" crushed then replace them

The final fix to this issue
had contaminated fuel

Drained the tank & refilled

Put in a quart or two of Marvel Mystery Oil in the oil.

MMO will fix that problem. Old time farmers use them in their worn out tractors.

It is cheaper than a rebuild.

Personally, I use MMO in everything. I fix small engines on the side. When people bring me motors that are seized, i put 100% MMO in the crankcase, let it marinate for a couple of day and literally "POP" the engine free via the main crank. Works wonders. Usually the engine comes back to life like magic.

--I am not affiliated with MMO-- just a big fan.

MMO will most likely fix the rings. I don't think it will do much for burnt valves if that is your problem.

__________________
Ben
1987 190d 2.5Turbo

MMO is the ticket here.
I soaked my cylinders in it for 4 days straight, ran the car for about 10-20 miles and gained compression it did a great job.
in a 240D with 219K miles on it,
my compression (cold) at first was
400
360
380
390

after soaking for 4 days my cold compression was:
395
390
385
385
definitely an improvement in cylinder 2 wouldn't you say?

before you do anything do that.

__________________
'82 240D 224K miles manual transmission
mods: wooden 4by4 bumper, EGR delete and older EX manifold without EGR port, glass pack muffler (cheapest replacement muffler), rebuilt bosch injectors with Monark nozzles

working on: aux electric fuel pump, coolant/fuel heat exchanger/filter head, afterglow, low oil pressure buzzer/LED