ahhhhh


done


well with one side atleast....

thanks for every1s help

As long as you are bleeding, flushing isn't much harder. The basic idea is that as you are bleeding the brakes, don't stop when you stop seeing bubbles, just keep on moving fluid through. Have a helper hanging out by the reservoir with a bottle of fresh brake fluid pouring some in and keeping it topped up. When you see the color of the fluid you are pulling out of the caliper change from 'gross' to 'clean', stop, and move to the next wheel. Again, keep pulling fluid through until it changes from 'gross' to 'clean'.

Make absolutely sure that you don't suck an air bubble in from the reservoir. Its worth it to have a helper there keeping their eye on it and topping it up as you go. If you suck a bubble in, you'll have to start from the beginning again!

Also, a vacuum bleeder helps a lot for flushing, but flushing can still be done like a 'super bleed'.

peace,
sam

__________________
"That f***in' biodiesel is makin' me hungry."

1982 300TD Astral Silver w/ 250k (BIO BNZ)
2001 Aprilia SR50 Corsa Red w/ 5.5k (>100 MPG)

ahhhhh


done


thanks for the info
i still plan on doing the other side and inspecting the rear pads..any tips on how thick they should be?

thanks for every1s help

hmm--while iwas in my mechanic's gargage i saw a 500SEL..w140 body.

If there is less than 3/16 of an inch of material left on the steel backing plate, I replace them. You can usually go a little longer than that if necessary, but as long as you are in there, replace them if they are less than 3/16", otherwise you'll just have to tear it open again in a few months.

peace,
sam

__________________
"That f***in' biodiesel is makin' me hungry."

1982 300TD Astral Silver w/ 250k (BIO BNZ)
2001 Aprilia SR50 Corsa Red w/ 5.5k (>100 MPG)

well

front brakes done

the 2nd was done in about 15minutes...stupid caliper piston...