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#1
11-27-2005, 10:22 AM
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Winter prep, what would you do?
I was just headed out to adjust the valves, and change filters on the 84 300TDT. Figured I would ask the forum what they do to prepair their car.
More specifically do you change your main fuel filter just before winter, or only at the 30,000 mile interval as MB suggests? My filters have about 10,000 or so on them, so may be that is being wasteful? I guess I am wondering about water build up. My Dodge has a drain plug on the filter, to remove water in the fuel. Not so on the TDT, thus the impulse to change it
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46 WDX Power Wagon 84 300TDT daily driver 
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#2
11-27-2005, 11:57 AM
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Another question that comes up is how often do TD owners change the suspension fluid? or Just change the filter, and fluid when the fluid gets dirty?
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46 WDX Power Wagon 84 300TDT daily driver
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#3
11-27-2005, 12:43 PM
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JDMill,
The good MB: Park them in the garage until spring. The winter beater, use it. Fuel filters I change when they stop passing enough fuel to give the engine full power. Any recommendation based on mileage or time is ridiculous since, unlike engine oil filters, they fill with dirt or fungus proportional to the amount of dirt or fungus in the fuel. If you get clean, fungus free fuel, the filters will last the life of the car. P E H
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#4
11-27-2005, 01:46 PM
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I agree with PEH on parking a good car. However, if forced to drive your good MB I would put it up on jack stands and clean / touchup any spots in the undercoating that could be compromised. This also goes for the paint with proper MB touchup paint, and the engine compartment. Finally a light mist of oil in the engine compartment and wheel wells should keep the car well protected but try to get to a car wash every few weeks, hopefully one with an underbody jet wash.
Snow tires and some weight in the back can never hurt along with a $15-$30 lower coolant hose heater for the diesels.
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Adam Lumsden (83) 300D Vice-President of the MBCA International Stars Section
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#5
11-27-2005, 04:23 PM
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Around here, driving in the winter is no different than driving during the fall, spring, and often summer.
Its just wet. So depending upon where you live, if the roads are salty take measures to prevent rust, etc. I do nothing more than check over tires, check pressures, put a little weight in the trunk if it is going to be snowy and just top off any low fluids. The winter, around here, is easier on cars 
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#6
11-27-2005, 07:53 PM
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Detail, winterize, park in garage, and throw the cover over it.
 The key to starting a diesel in the winter is: Clean filters; fuel, air, oil Synthetic oil Strong starter Strong battery Properly adjusted valves compression working glow plugs Block heater anti gell in the fuel Thats about it if all of the above are present and working starting won't be a problem.
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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200
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#7
11-28-2005, 12:57 AM
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JD, are rumors from Vermont of people putting their cars on lifts and soaking the undercarriage and wheel wells with oil and grease true? Sounds like the best rust prevention to me.
Meanwhile adding weight over rear axles helps with traction, say two 50 lb sacks of sand.
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#8
11-28-2005, 12:59 AM
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Quote:
It also helps you get props in the lowrider communities
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#9
11-28-2005, 12:19 PM
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we drove red one snowy night down to keno for dinner. w/o weight in the back she out accelerated every fwd car on the street.
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currently [1981 300 td tdidi 165500 dark brown/palamino-Brownie-mine-3k miles of ownership 1983 240d 162+++ Anthricite grey w/ henna red interior and hella lights-wifes car-Red the above two cars are for sale and can be seen on the cars for sale thread here. pix also available. 240d-144+ Manilla Yellow w/ palmino interior-greasecar kit-Blondie-the college kids car 23" gt 21 speed still on original tires-still got the nubs 21" khs tandem
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#10
11-28-2005, 12:32 PM
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New tires on the 250 and I can't do "doughnuts" anymore. She drives straight and true in all weather now. Don't know about the diesel, shes in the garage and I would like not to come out until spring.
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Adam Lumsden (83) 300D Vice-President of the MBCA International Stars Section
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#11
11-28-2005, 12:39 PM
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In Florida I roll down the windows and shut off the A/C....
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'87 924S '81 280SEL Sold -> 81 300SD - 93 300E w/ 3.2 85 300D- 79 300SD 82 300CD 83 300CD - CA 87 190E 5 spd 87 Porsche 924S "..I'll take a simple "C" to "G" and feel brand new about it..." 
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#12
11-30-2005, 05:51 PM
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some people do use a grease/oil bath undercoat... But the benz all ready has a ruberized coating from the factory... I adjusted the valves, and may replace the main fuel filter, as I dont care to try it when it is cold, and snowy!
thanks for your imput, Jason
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46 WDX Power Wagon 84 300TDT daily driver
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#13
11-30-2005, 06:48 PM
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JD,
That rubberised undercoating on MB seems worthless after about 10 years. Rust gets thru it and it then it seems to hold moisture and rust even worse. Save your money on the fuel filter. It probably won't have to be replaced an even if it does, its a easy, couple minute job from the top of the car. P E H
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#14
11-30-2005, 07:30 PM
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The rubber undercoating is horrible. All it does after a few years is crack and hold water against the metal.
 Their is a wax undercoating that works much better, I know people who actually strip the rubber stuff and replace it with the spray on wax stuff. I forget the name, waxall maybe???
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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200
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