Banjo bolt question
 

i just cleaned by banjo bolts i used some biodiesel i had and wd-40 to blow the crap out.. and some toothpicks to clean the inside of the bolts.

i put them back on and just took it up the street a lil and back to see any dif

i alread adjusted my alda so thats 2/3 things i needed to do the third is adjust the wastegate

where should i see improvement i didnt get out of 2nd gear so i doubt anything happened.. should i go down the street in S and rev it to 4k for 5 secs to see how much smoke comes out and adjust from there?

also the back of my engine block is caked with oily crud from 20 years of use.. can i juse use some of the simply green or w/e its called and wash it off.. i dont know if the rear main seal is leaking but id like a clean engine to check for oil leaks

Banjo Bolt Cleaning - WHY ??
 

:confused: I don't get it ;

Doesn't the Diesel Purge clean out everything ? do I now need to take my non leaking FI system all apart for internal cleaning with Q - tips ? .

Are these the banjo bolts on the fuel filter housing or what ? .

:confused: :confused: :confused:

the banjo bolt is located on the intake manifold by the transmission dipstick if you have a 617 engine and on the input of the alda.. check out the DIY link for it... diesel purge only cleans the injectors.

my banjo bolts were so full of crud i couldnt see in them.. now they are so clean i can see all the way through them.. good ole biodiesel cleaned it up

Both of the cars with in your sig won't have them. Don't worry. Its the banjo bolt that senses the amount of boost being provided by the turbo and accordingly tells the injector pump how much extra fuel to add via the ALDA. Since neither of those cars have a turbo, don't worry about it. Unless your '78 CD has a turbo on it, that is. They can get clogged up with crud and won't send any signal to the ALDA.

You MUST lean the crud out of the banjo bolts (both on the intake manifold and the input of the ALDA as previously mentioned) as well as all interconnecting lines there between.

The control is as follows:
Intake manifold output-to-banjo bolt-->pressure line-->changeover valve-->pressure line-->banjo bolt-to-ALDA input

If you don't keep this path clean and they become blocked (which is quite often the case) or severely restricted, it won't matter how much turbo boost you have, you will not get fuel enrichment to match. Increased air + no corresponding fuel enrichment = no or minimal boost.

Also, adjusting your ALDA in and of itself will likely give you the most noticeable results during pre-boost acceleration. When I cleaned mine, the line from the intake manifold to the changeover valve was completely blocked. Upon forcing it out with compressed air, cleaning the banjo bolts & remaining lines, insuring I had flow through the changeover valve, and finally adjusting the ALDA per the several instructions available across various threads herein and elsewhere, I could not believe the difference in performance. So much so that I don't think I'll even mess with the turbo wastegate adjustment...at least not for now.

Speaking of the turbo and FYI... From what I can gather, installing and adjusting a Dawes boost controller or the like (with a gauge of course) in lieu of doing the turbo wastegate adjustment appears to be a better way to go. It'll be easier than burning my knuckles during the wastegate adjustment for the KKK turbo (mine, the easier of the two) and certainly easier than the PITA wastegate adjustment for the Garret. Twenty-five bucks is worth avoiding the aggravation to me, will still allow me to set the turbo to the factory specs, and will give me an improved boost profile! Again, there is much across various threads herein regarding this topic.

Good luck!

how hard is it to remove the intake manifold to clean it?

KDHBenz, you're right about the Dawes Boost Controller. I tried unsucessfully to get the wastegate cover off of my Garrett. Installing the controller was very easy and I easily dialed my boost back to spec.

Don
 

[QUOTE=TheDon]i just cleaned by banjo bolts i used some biodiesel i had and wd-40 to blow the crap out.. and some toothpicks to clean the inside of the bolts.

Get you some pipe cleaners they work wonders in cleaning the inside of the banjo bolt and they are a perfect fit.

to late now i soaked them in the bio for 15 mins and got all the big crud out then i put them in some clean bio and shook them around and rinsed them with some diesel and blew wd-40 through them then another bio bath then dried em and put them back in

I recently had to replace the cylinder head ony my car (long story) and in the process I naturally had to take the intake manifold off. As I recall, it comes off together with the exhaust manifold (shares bolts), but not with much difficulty. It did have some MAJOR crud in it though. I've since completely disabled my EGR though so that should cut down on a lot of it...

Did you get the basic or the hybrid model? I'm told both are good...

I got the basic. It works great. To get it back to about 11-12psi I had to dial it almost all the way. I don't think I could get it up more than 2-3psi with the threads I have left.

No Banjo Bolts Then
 

THANK YOU _very_ much ! one more thing I don't need to worry about nor fiddle with then .

-Nate

Now that I'm catching up with your drift here, after reading about the w-gate adjusts...I'm almost sold on the Dawes controller, basic model but one question on another note, at 267K I'm thinking any damage the EGR has done is already done and is it worth pulling it now? Or is it a thing where you try it and see if it improves performance vs keeping the car working with the original parts and hoping for the best...and minimal further intake crusting...

In order to function "properly" the EGR valve must have a functioning vacuum line on it. If the vacuum line were to get clogged the poor thing will remain shut and be unable to function "properly" :D .


Conn