Diesel Timing Static Position Indicator
MB P/N: 617 589 08 21 00

Anyone interested in pooling some funds together to purchase and share this specialized tool useful in setting IP timing for the following engines:
601, 602.91 /.93 /.94 /.96, 603.91 /.93 / .96 /.97, 605, 606, 617.93 / .95

Samstag Sales has it for $329.95 +S/H...

I can't afford one for myself, so I thought this might be a better way for many of us. Let me know if there's an interest...

Thanks,
-Ken

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-Ken Harris
1984 Mercedes 300SD
2001 VW Passat 1.8T
2004 Harley Davidson FLHRSI
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Der Dieselfanatiker

I will loan mine out for 1 week@ $25. ! OF course I will need a deposit of $150 up front!

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I might just take you up on that...deposit and all...look for email from me...

Since you actually own the tool and are therefore obviously in the know... Is the procedure calling for the use of the position indicator inherently better than the Jim Mahaffey (MercedesList) method whereby one looks for fuel to well up in the bottom of the injector valve? I would suspect it would be easier and perhaps more accurate (although I am NOT knocking Jim's procedure)...

Thanks,
-Ken

__________________
-Ken Harris
1984 Mercedes 300SD
2001 VW Passat 1.8T
2004 Harley Davidson FLHRSI
-----------------------------
Der Dieselfanatiker

I recently had the pleasure of using the RIV lights to set timing on the SD, courtesy of one of our esteemed members.

By far, its a fabulous tool. Once you get the lower bolt released, you can set timing in about 10 minutes and it is guaranteed to be accurate within about 1/4 degree. It simply does not compare with the traditional method.

I was considering buying one and putting it in the rental pool. But, if MB Doc is willing to rent his for $25.00, that is definitely the way to go.

Brian,

Can you tell us a little more about the procedure using this tool. I have never even heard of it.

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First, it only works on the newer IP's with the removable plug on the outside.

The IP needs to have the "notch" on the rotating shaft.

You remove the plug on the IP and thread the pickup of the RIV tool into the threaded hole being careful to engage the slot.

Connect the positive lead to the battery.

Set the engine at 15 ATDC on the power stroke.

Loosen all screws holding the IP and remove the hard lines.


There are two lights on the display of the RIV tool, "B" and "A". The "B" light is illuminated when the timing is early. Rotate the pump away from the engine until both lights are lit. If you go slightly too far, the "A" light will illuminate telling you the timing is late. Rotate the pump back towards the engine until both lights are on.

Carefully tighten the IP screws and install the hard lines.

Remove the pickup from the side of the IP and reinstall the plug.

Disconnect the cable to the battery.

You are done.

I learned of it from W126 Service library 07.1-111 procedure, which can be found here.

-Ken

__________________
-Ken Harris
1984 Mercedes 300SD
2001 VW Passat 1.8T
2004 Harley Davidson FLHRSI
-----------------------------
Der Dieselfanatiker

THese use to be much more reasonable...

I *KNOW* someone whom owns one and repair ppl would drive 20-30 miles to use it. Very nice and easy. I think he paid $275 in about 98' for it.

M

Do you mean the "A-B light box"? Yep, it works great. You can still get one for ~$300 or so.

A-B light box
MB# 617 589 08 21 00



.

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I believe it uses a sensor at the crankshaft to measure engine position, relative to the IP/RIV position. No timing light.

I agree. It must use the TDC sensor as a reference/ time base to measure the IP/RIV lug angle position. That's why there's such a tedious procedure in section 03-345 of the W123 FSM - Checking and correcting adjustment of TDC transmitter. A similar procedure for the W124 probably exists.

http://mercedes.thatchermathias.com/w123CD2/Program/Engine/617/03-345.pdf

The timing light I am working on can trigger off the TDC transmitter or the RIV port lug. On my 85 300D, when the timing light was triggering on the TDC transmitter, the harmonic balancer marks was spot on at 20 degree after TDC (per FSM spec). That indicated the TDC transmitter was correctly adjusted. Does that also indicate there is no chain stretch?

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It's not necessarily TDC, there is a bracket which senses the harmonic balancer, but I think it's 20° off from TDC, or something like that. It just needs a reference point. And yes, I believe there is a procedure to adjust the bracket for the TDC sensor.

Chain stretch is totally separate, you really need to check the camshaft marks vs balancer. The IP can be adjusted to match the crank but the camshaft could still be out due to chain stretch. Remember the balancer indicator is adjustable a total of 3° (on the OM60x) and if it's ever been touched, you could be a couple degrees off. The indicator has to be removed during a water pump R&R so it's pretty likely to have been disturbed by now. I re-adjusted mine to TDC via dial gauge on the piston while the head was off...

BTW - just noticed you have all OM61x. Ooops. I was referring to OM60x... sorry.

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OM61x. or OM60x... , aren't the procedures and equipment used for timing the same?

I see Brian Carlton is banned. He is not far from me and I'd like to hook up with him to compare readings of my timing light vs his AB light RIV tester. Anyone know if Brian can be reached via PM while being banned? Anyone in contact with him?

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

I got a hold of Brian via email. We will be getting together when it gets warmer. Should be interesting comparing results.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked