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  #16  
Old 12-12-2005, 10:15 PM
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The relay will go for 45 seconds after the light turns off or until the starter is engaged. It starts better when you do that because the GPs are on longer. I have new plugs in my SDL and below 60 or so it sputters and smokes but it always jumps right to life. From what I've read all over here, it just seems to be the nature of the beast. 603s start easily in the cold though they don't usually run smooth as silk till they've been allowed to warm up for 30 seconds or so. If you wanted to improve starting even more the next step would be to check the timing chain, IP timing, and the injectors. I would say your car's fine.

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David
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  #17  
Old 12-13-2005, 12:30 AM
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Thumbs up

I agree about AutoZone being the lest spendy, I think I got a set of six at 2am here for $60 and some coin. Bosch units.

My SDL also sputters a tad when started cold, then idles great within a few seconds.

FWIW...
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  #18  
Old 12-13-2005, 09:28 AM
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The thing is, glow plugs on a 603 are not that easy to change. Since mine wouldn't start at all, and the glow plugs were the only reason for the non start, I just got busy and changed them. Took me 3 hours to remove the intake and so forth, with two friends and some beer. Next time, I'll do it alone and it will only take an hour or so.
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  #19  
Old 12-13-2005, 10:13 AM
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afterglow

You may just need the afterglow mod - seems most of us have startup issues with our 603's. I added the violet wire switch and it has made a big improvement. I did this because changing glow plugs did very little to help the rough starts in my 86 SDL.

see:
Afterglow and the Violet Wire
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  #20  
Old 12-14-2005, 09:30 PM
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More questions ... last night when I went to start 'im up, in about 5 degree weather, I seriously thought the entire line of cylinders might never kick in ... it sturged and struggled for well over a minute. This after the full glow cycle. It smoothed out and was fine, drove home well, etc.
I don't think it's a problem, but asked my mechanic anyway. He thought maybe it was an injector issue (although agreed that it's probably just how it goes with an old diesel in winter). He recommended I try revving the rpms up a little at startup, to 2000 at most. Stupid question that I forgot to clarify, though ... should I do this while the starter is engaged or after?

Also, I noticed the manual said to depress the accelerator during startups below 32F, but haven't heard anyone here say they do this. What the deal with that?
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  #21  
Old 12-14-2005, 11:25 PM
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Bohdi,

Its normal for older colder Diesel engines to run rough for a short time until they warm up inside. Most of mine do. As long as they smooth out and run OK after reasonable time, I wouldn't worry about it.

Don't run the engine fast with the starter engaged. Imagine how fast the starter is turning when that big ring gear is turning the small pinion gear on the starter. After the engine will run with out assist from the starter, then you can rev up the engine.

I always push the throttle down when starting my Diesel engine. However I was at Lake Tahoe once in ~32*F weather and the 300SD wouldn't start with my foot on the accelerator. For some unknown reason I tried with out my foot on the accelerator and it started right up. I have no explanation for this.

P E H
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  #22  
Old 12-14-2005, 11:37 PM
Craig
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I can't speak to the 60x's, but both my 616 and 617 start better if I don't touch the throttle until after the engine catches. If I give them throttle when they are cranking, they seem to "flood" and don't catch. Maybe it's a high elevation/thin air thing?
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  #23  
Old 12-14-2005, 11:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P.E.Haiges
Bohdi,

Its normal for older colder Diesel engines to run rough for a short time until they warm up inside. Most of mine do. As long as they smooth out and run OK after reasonable time, I wouldn't worry about it.

Don't run the engine fast with the starter engaged. Imagine how fast the starter is turning when that big ring gear is turning the small pinion gear on the starter. After the engine will run with out assist from the starter, then you can rev up the engine.

I always push the throttle down when starting my Diesel engine. However I was at Lake Tahoe once in ~32*F weather and the 300SD wouldn't start with my foot on the accelerator. For some unknown reason I tried with out my foot on the accelerator and it started right up. I have no explanation for this.

P E H
That's kind of what I thought. I thought it odd that the manual said to do that, especially since 32 degrees really isn't terribly cold (as compared to <10). The engine runs sans starter right away, just does so ugly. If it isn't going to hurt, though, it's not a problem ... I let the engine warm up for quite a while before going anywhere no matter what it sounds like, so it isn't time lost. I just always want to be as certain as possible ... I think I have "munchausen syndrome by auto" ...


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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--369,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--14,500 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #24  
Old 12-17-2005, 09:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P.E.Haiges
Bohdi,

Its normal for older colder Diesel engines to run rough for a short time until they warm up inside. Most of mine do. As long as they smooth out and run OK after reasonable time, I wouldn't worry about it.
Well, I now have some curious info regarding two older diesels that don't exhibit this behavior.

The SD, with new valves and new prechambers starts and idles as though it was 70 degrees outside. Just a bit of hunting and it's dead smooth.

The new SDL, with a new #22 cylinder head also starts and idles dead smooth, at 30F. ambients.

Rather interesting what new valves will do for these old engines.
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