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  #16  
Old 04-07-2006, 09:57 AM
OMEGAMAN's Avatar
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If the drain plug won't come out just remove the diff cover. You'll just need to support the diff with a floor jack or something because you will need to remove the rear mount. No big thing.


Last edited by OMEGAMAN; 04-08-2006 at 02:30 PM.
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  #17  
Old 04-08-2006, 12:24 PM
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will synthetic in Differential really help ?

After I picked up my 300K mi 300D I found the differential low by ~40% on lube oil. I topped it off with standard 75-90 oil.

Q - Does anyone think I would benefit by making an initial hot-oil change to Mobile-1 and then later changing again... whill this help to reduce the what I will call the "sounds of looseness" I hear from the rear end?
Sam // Novato, CA
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  #18  
Old 08-24-2006, 04:15 PM
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MB service CD tells me to drain differential oil only when the rear axle is at operating temperature.

How long should I drive the car to bring the differential to operating temperature?


If I go to an instant oil change place, do they tighten the filler and drain plugs to correct specification (50 Nm in my case), and do they do clean job (not putting dirt outside the differential around the filler hole into the differential)?
I am trying to avoid paying for the labour cost to drive my car to bring the differential to operating temperature.
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Last edited by ktlimq; 08-24-2006 at 04:24 PM.
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  #19  
Old 08-24-2006, 09:26 PM
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I wouldn't you could burn yourself. Its gear oil, as long as its warm out it will drain just fine.
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  #20  
Old 08-24-2006, 10:07 PM
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but, let's get real here.........how hot does a rear-end get? Most heat back there you'll find comes as radiant heat from the exhaust.....heavy around town driving will probably warm it faster than 55mph cruising........

just my theory anyway..........
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  #21  
Old 08-24-2006, 10:29 PM
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Unless you have a lift, getting under a hot car is not going to be fun. Plus I wouldn't want to find out, because no matter how carefull you are the old fluid is going to get on your arms.

90% of these cars probably drive into the junk yard on the original fluid put in back in Germany. So changing it hot vs cold, come on.
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  #22  
Old 08-25-2006, 12:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ktlimq View Post
MB service CD tells me to drain differential oil only when the rear axle is at operating temperature.

How long should I drive the car to bring the differential to operating temperature?


If I go to an instant oil change place, do they tighten the filler and drain plugs to correct specification (50 Nm in my case), and do they do clean job (not putting dirt outside the differential around the filler hole into the differential)?
I am trying to avoid paying for the labour cost to drive my car to bring the differential to operating temperature.
Iffy Loob? Never!@
I let mine drain overnight (all weekend if possible) its amazing how slow that stuff comes out by the time its finished it will be cold regardless of the temp when you start
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  #23  
Old 08-25-2006, 12:53 AM
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I used a regular L-shaped Allen wrench (couldn't find a 14mm Allen socket when I went shopping) but I also got an 18 inch steel pipe (half inch fits perfectly) to give me some leverage. The first time on my '85, the fill plug wouldn't come out so I removed the cover, as was mentioned above. Once I had the cover on the bench, I warmed it gently with a torch and the plug came right out.

I now carry the Allen wrench in the spare tire well, just in case I have to do something on the road. The pipe fits alongside the jack.

Oil always drains better when it's warm. I wouldn't drive the car just to warm up the oil but I would make plans to change the oil just after a drive that was done for some other reason. For example, I changed the engine oil today as soon as I returned from the San Jose area (100 miles at mostly freeway speeds; the engine was definitely "warm").

Jeremy
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  #24  
Old 01-02-2007, 08:19 PM
JWJ JWJ is offline
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Transmission fluid?

Changed the rear diff. fluid in my '85 300TD (wagon) today. As soon as I removed the fill plug I smelled burnt transmission fluid. I removed the drain plug and sure enough its red with a brownish tint. Once the fluid stopped draining I put my finger inside the diff. to see if any was left inside. Some of this red fluid has gelled like jello and put a coating on the bottom inside of the diff. I replaced with Mobil 1 synthetic.

Is it correct to use transmission fluid in the rear diff?

Or is this old fluid/gel possibly something other than trans. fluid?
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  #25  
Old 01-02-2007, 09:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWJ View Post
Is it correct to use transmission fluid in the rear diff?

Not on your life.

Gear lube will have a unique smell, not at all like ATF or motor oil. And it won't be red.
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  #26  
Old 01-02-2007, 10:37 PM
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I changed the diff fluid in the wagon a while back, and it was the foulest smelling stuff I have ever drained from a vehicle. It didn't look that bad either to tell the truth, but it smelled like Fido's arse.......
Went with Royal Purple for the diff fluid. Couldn't afford it for the tranny.....
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  #27  
Old 01-03-2007, 09:07 AM
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JimmyL - sounds like you and Fido are really close.

Len
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  #28  
Old 01-03-2007, 09:11 AM
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1997 W210 E300TD 243,000
 
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Could somebody answer a question for me?

How difficult/easy is it to check the breather valve on the diff of a W210?

I want to change the fluid this week, but would appreciate comment on access to the breather to see if its clear?
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  #29  
Old 01-03-2007, 11:54 AM
Sportlines
 
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Not sure about W210, but suspect differential not much different than say W124 differentials. There is no breather valve, but rather just an opening high up on the backside of the differential case.

Crawl under there and have a look.

Steve
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  #30  
Old 01-03-2007, 02:12 PM
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1997 W210 E300TD 243,000
 
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Thanks, I should be doing the change tommorrow, but this page would seem to suggest there is a breather valve:

http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.asp?TP=1&F=210225&M=606%2E962&GA=722%2E608&CT=F&cat=45Q&SID=35&SGR=015&SGN=01

Part 152

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