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  #1  
Old 01-05-2006, 11:56 PM
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Brian,
The garage was probably in the upper 40s. On the return trip to the Kansas City area, the car was left overnight in a parking lot in Wichita. When I got to it in the morning, there was frost on it, so it was below freezing during the night. Whenever its gone below freezing I preglow three times before cranking. Started right up then, too.

Bah, I want this car to work. I'm tired of people looking at me funny driving my big diesel sedan during the summer and my SL in the winter.
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  #2  
Old 01-06-2006, 12:25 AM
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Location: Blue Point, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nmucci
Brian,
The garage was probably in the upper 40s. On the return trip to the Kansas City area, the car was left overnight in a parking lot in Wichita. When I got to it in the morning, there was frost on it, so it was below freezing during the night. Whenever its gone below freezing I preglow three times before cranking. Started right up then, too.
Well, the upper '40s won't tell us much. But, the "below freezing" certainly will. If it started fine under these conditions, then you likely have decent compression.

So, the first thing to check is the condition of the glow plugs. Get yourself an ohmmeter and check each plug, via the wire from the relay, to ground. You must have less than 1.2 ohms. Anything above this value means that you must replace the plug. Make sure the controller is working and that the plugs are actually receiving 12V.

Some of us will simply replace the full set of plugs, once age has crept up on them and starting issues arise. But, if you are frugal, you can test them first.

Since you have no idea when the last valve adjustment was done, it's time to pull the valve cover and, at the very least, measure the valve lash on all the valves. If they are seriously tight, then you have to get them adjusted back to spec.

Just do it.
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  #3  
Old 01-06-2006, 03:16 PM
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Well crap.

I cracked the injector lines today and saw a little bit of fuel dribbling at each line. It may be interesting to note that it took a couple cranks before fuel came out on a couple lines. The glow plug relay is working, and the voltage from each glow plug relay wire was at least 10V. I unfortunately did not have an ohmmeter available. I will tomorrow. The engine turned much faster than it used to, but it didn't sound like it was firing at all. From the exhaust pipe, there was white smoke, but I felt a rhythmic puffing, like a vacuum; much like the feeling of a running gas engine misfiring one cylinder. My mechanic doesn't have a diesel compression checker, he recommended the local "expensive" shop for that. He expressed some concern that my oil was jet black and that there could be a problem with the rings; also I should change the oil as soon as I can get the engine running. I've always used Rotella T 15W40. Maybe something lighter for the winter? Now I'm staring at spending a bunch of money for a compression check and/or valve adjustment, right?

I apologize for any nonsensical wording in the above paragraph. I'm in emotional distress over my car.
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73 450SL AMG "Millennium Falcon"
88 Volvo 740GLE B230F/M47
84 300SD Turbo (Sold, looking for new one)
86 300E (FOR SALE)
78 450SL (totalled by girl on drugs in SUV)
87 Volvo 740GLE wagon (totalled by Ford Expedition)
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  #4  
Old 01-06-2006, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nmucci
He expressed some concern that my oil was jet black and that there could be a problem with the rings; also I should change the oil as soon as I can get the engine running.
Step 1: Fire the mechanic. He knows nothing about a diesel engine

Step 2: Go back and reread post #11.

Step 3: Follow that post.

Step 4: Report back here with findings.
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  #5  
Old 01-06-2006, 07:50 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: West of Ft. Worth. TX
Posts: 4,186
Ditto!

I agree with Brian on this. Relax and we can help you through this.

Your comments tell us that your mechanic knows next to nothing about diesel engines. Black oil tells you that the oil is doing its job and suspending soot particles.

Also, he has monetary gain in mind with this continuing saga of unable to start. We, however, have nothing to gain from this and are only trying to help you out. He may also be just trying to cover his lack of knowledge to prevent embarassment on his part. We do not know your mechanic so this is not anything personal against him.

Once you sort out the glow plug problem, you should have little trouble starting. You have not answered any of the questions about the status of the glow plug light or checking the fuse in the controller.
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  #6  
Old 01-06-2006, 08:43 PM
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sorry, forgot to answer the glow plug light question. the glow plug light is working fine. the relay correctly clicks on when you turn the key to 2, and after the light goes off, the relay stays on for about 20-30 seconds, and then it clicks off. I have not checked the 80A fuse inside the relay, I'll try and do this soon. I will update with progress.
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73 450SL AMG "Millennium Falcon"
88 Volvo 740GLE B230F/M47
84 300SD Turbo (Sold, looking for new one)
86 300E (FOR SALE)
78 450SL (totalled by girl on drugs in SUV)
87 Volvo 740GLE wagon (totalled by Ford Expedition)
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  #7  
Old 01-06-2006, 11:44 PM
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Location: Blue Point, NY
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Hmmmm..........in addition to the resistance check of the glow plugs, please perform one more task:

Remove the cap to the fuel tank and attempt to start it again.

.......stranger things have happened........
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