Lower Ball Joint Replacement Question - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Jmana · #1 01-10-2006, 08:32 PM

I need to replace both ball joints on my 85 300SD due to the fact that there is not a boot on either one. I was looking at the proceedure for replacing it, but I was wondering if it is possible to do it without removing the spindle?

diesel don · #2 01-10-2006, 10:00 PM

The job wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. Have done a few of them now. The right tools are everything.

dp

Jmana · #3 01-10-2006, 10:28 PM

What all tools will I need? So far, I have a tie rod fork, and I am going to get the joint press from Autozone. Anything else I should pick up beforehand?

babyjames · #4 01-10-2006, 10:30 PM

At least a half-rack.

Jay.

dannym · #5 01-11-2006, 10:00 AM

When you go to Autozone rent one of these too or buy one from somewhere like Samstagsales.com or Harbor Freight.

If you can get a hold of this that would work better than the autozone press:

Danny

Jmana · #6 01-11-2006, 06:10 PM

What is the name of the tool in these pictures?

kmaysob · #7 01-11-2006, 10:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannym

When you go to Autozone rent one of these too or buy one from somewhere like Samstagsales.com or Harbor Freight.

If you can get a hold of this that would work better than the autozone press:

Danny

those only work to seperate the tie rods and the upper ball joint. they will not help him press the new lower ball joints in. the one you rent at autozone will work just as good as any of them. belive me, i have used it many times with no problems. the harbor freight press is garbage, please dont waste your money. get the one from autozone and its free.carefully use a hammer to pound the old one out and then it will press right in. MAKE SURE IT IS STARTED STRAIT.

tobybul · #8 11-10-2006, 10:40 AM

Trust me, you will need the 2 tools DannyM showed. NAPA sells the top one and I ordered the lower one online. Look for my post on this. If the SD is like my 300D, its best to take the spindle off. If you've gone that far into it anyway, it does not take that much more to pop off the upper control arm.

I started with the fork but I felt its not a good tool tool as it bangs up everything it encounters. Plus, it will TEAR a boot such as what happened to me with the upper arm. Some people swear by it. But as soon as I used those 2 tools, voila!!!! easy as pie. I will NEVER use the fork again.

I did use the AZ press tool. Its ok but still require some pounding. Better have a big hammer on hand.

Next time I do this, I'll bring the spindle to NAPA's machine shop and have them remove the old bj and press the new one in. For $15 or less, its worth it.

tobybul · #9 11-10-2006, 05:29 PM

W123 Ball Joint and tie rod extractor

Hit Man X · #10 11-10-2006, 06:31 PM

So the upper joint can be replaced without buying the entire upper arm?

Brian Carlton · #11 11-10-2006, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hit Man X

So the upper joint can be replaced without buying the entire upper arm?

..........not on any of yours........

tobybul · #12 11-10-2006, 08:56 PM

Unless the upper bj is totally worn - and usually, it should be fine unless the boot tore. In which case the boot can be replaced as long as the boot just got torn recently and the joint is not rusted out inside.

Not familiar with the SD's but if its set up like the D's, it can be fixed. You have to buy the boot from the dealer. I comes with a new ring tension spring. I replaced the boot of my upper arm joint becuase I mistakenly used the @%#& fork to try to pop off the spindle from the joint and tore the boot.

I ended up ordering the OTC 7315 tool which separated the spindle from the joint effortlessly. I think this tool is a must have....

Brian Carlton · #13 11-10-2006, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tobybul

Unless the upper bj is totally worn - and usually, it should be fine unless the boot tore. In which case the boot can be replaced as long as the boot just got torn recently and the joint is not rusted out inside.

With the age of the UCA bushings and the questionable condition of the ball joint, it's usually not worth the effort to screw around with it. The replacement OCAP's are about $55. or so. They seem to work acceptably well on the SDL.

Brian Carlton · #14 11-10-2006, 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tobybul

I ended up ordering the OTC 7315 tool which separated the spindle from the joint effortlessly. I think this tool is a must have....

I found this set for $100. Couldn't stop myself.........

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Pitman-Arm-Ball-Joint-Tie-Rod-FRoNT-EnD-ToolS_W0QQitemZ120051333471QQihZ002QQcategoryZ43996QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

nautical · #15 07-07-2012, 10:17 AM

hey folks. looks like lower ball joints are tuff and confusing. i can't do my own. and my mechanic has been working on cars for 40 years. so, i hope he can do both of my lower ball joints.

my question is- how many hour do you think he is going to charge me for?

i'm broke.

thank you.

300d benz 1985