Swaybar repair pictoral, 300SD - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

pawoSD · #31 04-02-2007, 07:04 PM

I still think its much more fun to remove the entire contents of the engine compartment and replace the whole bar!

None of this "band-aid" stuff.....

Chas H · #32 04-02-2007, 08:05 PM

I did a repair on a 123 a number of years back. I cut off the broken stub plus the thickness of the head of the bolt I welded on to the sway bar.
Neccessity is a mother sometimes.

WD8CDH · #33 04-03-2007, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tobybul

Roy, how critical is the tolerance dimension on how far the end of the sway bar should be when inserting the kit into the existing bar?

I would suspect that if the shoulder of the repair end was within 1/8" of where the shoulder of the bar was, you wouldn't need to do a realiagnment.

But if the car is old enough to need this repair, it probably needs an aliagnment anyway.

Pete Burton · #34 02-19-2008, 11:43 PM

Repair still holding up, although car hasn't seen many miles in the last few weeks as it's awaiting a replacement of the K2 drum in the trans (which I just got via UPS today

).

Brian Carlton · #35 02-19-2008, 11:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pete Burton

Repair still holding up, although car hasn't seen many miles in the last few weeks as it's awaiting a replacement of the K2 drum in the trans (which I just got via UPS today

).

Welcome back, Pete.

We missed you.........!!

WD8CDH · #36 02-20-2008, 09:40 AM

Hi Pete,

My repair is still going strong too. (25,000 miles)

I used a 5/8" o.d. stainless steel tube instead of the plastic, but otherwise the same.

mobetta · #37 02-21-2008, 11:27 AM

when I removed my old sway to replace, I discovered that the other side had already been fixed by welding a bolt to it. dont know how long it was on there, but it was still very strong.

at $128 for the repair kit, I assume that it includes both sides???? and will it fit the thicker wagon sway, or only for the sedans?? I am pretty sure the wagons are 2 mm thicker diameter, if I recall correctly.

and on a 123, if yer spending that much money, a new sway is really not too hard to do. I did mine+ the first valve job I had ever done on my MBZ in about 6.5 hours. a 126 would be a different story.

a dealer 123.193(300TD) sway was $207+ the bushings and hardware.

WD8CDH · #38 02-21-2008, 04:54 PM

Hi Mo,

Mine broke when driving home on a friday and the MB was my only driver at the time. At that time, I didn't even know about the kit. I had to fix it by the next Monday. When I just checked the other side, it broke too. With the stainless steel bolt and stainless steel sleeve, I think it is better than new.

Pete Burton · #39 02-22-2008, 09:10 PM

Thanks Brian, WD8CDH. It's been a while. I'll be here sort of infrequently, but more than the last year or so, depends. I SHOULD be downstairs, fixing my transmission that only lasted 25K with my rebuild. However, I stopped driving it before I munched anything. What failed was my somewhat risky welding on the K2 clutch drum. The dealer wanted $700 for a K2 drum begged out of Germany. I got a perfect NEW K2 drum from http://wesellhardparts.com This place rocks. Hope to have it back on the road soon.

Brian Carlton · #40 02-22-2008, 09:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pete Burton

Thanks Brian, WD8CDH. It's been a while. I'll be here sort of infrequently, but more than the last year or so, depends. I SHOULD be downstairs, fixing my transmission that only lasted 25K with my rebuild. However, I stopped driving it before I munched anything. What failed was my somewhat risky welding on the K2 clutch drum. The dealer wanted $700 for a K2 drum begged out of Germany. I got a perfect NEW K2 drum from http://wesellhardparts.com This place rocks. Hope to have it back on the road soon.

I have to tell you, Pete, that you're one of only about a handful of individuals out of the 32,700 members of this forum who would dare to tackle the internals of the 722.3. It's quite an extraordinary achievement and relegates you to the one of the most knowledgeable members here with with regard to how the box functions and what it's issues can be when "problems" develop.

I hope you'll stay for awhile..........we really could use your knowledge and advice.

tobybul · #41 03-12-2009, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pete Burton

5. Here's a picture of the finished tapped hole. 1/2-13 x 1.3" Deep.

6. Parts fitted loosely together. From left, 1/2-13 x 4" GRADE 8 hex head bolt. 123-323-04-76 washer, drilled out to 1/2" ID. 123-333-06-67 washer. 116-333-40-14 support. 116-333-40-14 support. 123-333-06-67 washer. Underneath all of that, a piece of 1/2"ID x 5/8OD polyethylene tubing, to bring the diameter around the bolt up to nearly 16mm. I would have liked to use a harder plastic, but that's what they had at the hardware store.

7. Outside both 123-333-06-67 washers, it measures 60 mm, just like the still unbroken right side.

8. Done.

Pete, how's this holding up so far? Looks like i gotta do something with mine.

Is the sway bar one-piece from left to right or are they 2 separate pieces?