What i mean to say is that you guys seem to worry about the effects of wvo on an allready suverly aged vehicle.Where is the concern for our planet in all of this?Do we really need to worry about rubber fuel lines and simple injectors or even glow plugs or a little buildup of gunk in the engine(these things can be easily fixed).These engines are built to stand the test of time.Besides the first diesel was built to run peanut oil. Where do our responsibilities lye?I run wvo in my car and feel good every time i save a buck and contribute to the non destruction of the air i breath.If i have to buy another dieselin the next year or 5 years from now i know that the cost of that new car, or replacement engine won't begin to scratch the surface of the enviromental impact on our earth or the economical impact of my wallet.I say run wvo or bio till she rusts into the ground right before your eyes because we are the only ones who can make a difference.

If you believe that you are:

- More inventive
- More knowledgable
- More thorough
- More mechanically inclined

and generally more intelligent than the Stuttgart engineers who designed and built your car, then go for it.

Myself? I will stick to the fuel on which these cars were designed to run.

very well put

A well done veggy conversion is a joy to live with....

Engine runs Quieter, Smoother and far less smoke....

(Better for your wallet too!)

My original old MB 300D has a total of over 350K miles on it, with around 70K miles on single-tank veggy conversion...

Its now off the road due to rust and corrosion..(It was basically toast when I had it!)
Its been standing a total of two years, Hasnt been run for 1 year. The last time I started it, -Fired up first time, just as always....That was just over a year ago. The fuel in the tank, filter, IP Injectors is veggy oil....

I need to move it very soon, Ill fire it up tomorrow, Let you know how she starts!.....

(A few recommendations for great running on Veggy-Oil, whether single-tank or twin-tank--on the OM-617.series

Fit a larger full-flow heated fuel filter, in Addition to the original.

Replace the Pre-Heater Glow-Plugs, Preferably of the 'Bosch Duratherm' type

Set Injection Timing 3-4 Degrees In Advance of makers setting. This is to compensate for the longer burn-time of Veggy-Oils.

Fit New Diesel Injection Nozzles, Before you fuel with veggy. Set at NORMAL PRESSURE....Do not increase opening pressure-This is Important!-I recommend DNOSD 261 nozzles, as fitted to the 'G Wagen' OM-617 engine, and set at 115 Bar--Use ONLY BOSCH or DELPHI make nozzles--Most other 'Pattern-Parts' are crap!

If going 'Single-Tank' route as I did, in cold weather use around 5-15% Unleaded to ensure perfect cold-starts.

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http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg

Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....

I have not been saying alot about it because who knows where the timescale is but I am running an "experiment" on my '81 300D. For the past 1-1/2 years I have been running purchased biod and within the past three months have been running a used/filtered vegetable oil RUG blend by and pouring it straight into the tank. The car is showing 247k miles and it is the next in line to get an engine rebuild. I will be interested in seeing the pistons. The pistons from the 240D engine I am rebuilding now were worn out and it had run on biod but no blend. It will be interesting to see the comparison.

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Jim

Whether you like or hate vegetable conversions is opinion but the fact is a mercedes converted properly will run just as good as diesel with no problems.

Key points are proper heating of the oil to 160 degrees.

Choose your oil carefully(no goopy junk)

Filter your oil good.

I have been doing this on three different vehicles over the years with no problems.

The most recent, 1983 mercedes 300D turbo with nearly 300,000 miles on it (7,000 on oil).

You will notice some power loss due to lower BTU output of vegetable oil.

You can make your own system if you are a capable person.

Do your research.

Copy success.

Steve

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85 300d in progress

Oh I filter my oil to 10 micron and have had no problems.

My system is a two tank heated.

Start on diesel and stop on diesel.

Steve

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85 300d in progress

I'd like to put in my 0.02 here. Check their system out:

http://www.frybrid.com/

It's probably the most expensive available right now ($1700) and you have to wait for it at least 2-3 months, but it is the only one that heats the oil properly, and it's absolutely foolproof.

BTW: No, I'm not getting paid for this.

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'99 S420, 155k
'91 VW Vanagon GL, 150k
'85 VW Vanagon GL, 120k
'82 VW Westy, aircooled, 165k

There is 0% chance it will damage MY engine, because I wouldn't go near it. I don't now about your owner's manual, but there is nothing in mine about running my engine on kitchen garbage. When some one shows me some WVO with ASTM test results, I'll think about it, maybe. These guys have no idea what's in the junk they're burning and that fact that some of them have been lucky for a while proves nothing.

I'm afraid you are probably correct about this being a "population reducer" for these cars. I also would make me very careful buying a used car or engine now, because you can't always tell if it's been abused with this stuff. Obviously, you don't want one that's been hacked up with a "conversion" but it may not be that obvious if the PO was running this stuff in a single tank.

BTW, I suspect "resleeving your engine and redoing the head" would end up costing you significantly more than $1500. If you consider your engine disposable, act accordingly.

Absolutely foolproof? Are you willing to stake the integrity of your engine on it? Do they have additional credibility because the system costs $1,700?

If you answer yes, yes, and yes to the above, I wish you luck.

Again - I don't believe in fads or snake oil. I will continue to run my 617 on the fuel it was designed to burn.

if you want absolutely fool proof then go with elsbett.

Elsbett is the top of the veggie conversion "industry" and have been doing it ever since the diesel man himself mysteriously disapeared.

They are the only ones that warranty you entire engine against breaking down due to their conversion or the veggie oil. The only ones! but you pay a good amount of $$$$ to get those quality parts.

elsbett has a passat TDI with over 200K on veggie!
http://www.folkecenter.dk/plant-oil/converted_cars_examples.htm

You cant worry about the engines breaking down with a warranty that elsbett gives you!

http://www.elsbett.com/

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Current:
05 E320 CDI
07 GL320 CDI
08 Sprinter
05 Dodge Cummins
01 Dodge Cummins

Previous
2004 E55 AMG
2002 C32 AMG (#2)
1995 E300
1978 300D
1987 300D
2002 C32 AMG(blown motor :[
1981 300SD
1983 300SD
1987 300SDL
2002 Jetta TDI
1996 S420
1995 S500
1993 190E 2.6
1992 190E 2.3
1985 190E 2.3 5-Speed

The OM61x engines however were not built to run on peanut oil.

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'81 MB 300SD, '82 MB 300D Turbo (sold/RIP), '04 Lincoln Town Car Ultimate

Sooner or later every car falls apart, ours does it later!
-German Narrator in a MB Promotion Film about the then brand new W123.

Neither are the 60X series.

But I hear MB is doing testing with biodiesel, and what B5 or B20 they may give the ok to.

If B whatever was sold at the pump here I might try running it.

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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Mercedes-Benz has approved B5 for a little while now.

I also need to go back to this quote...
Actually, it wasn't. The first diesel engine ran on coal dust. Would you like to pour some coal dust in your fuel tank?

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'81 MB 300SD, '82 MB 300D Turbo (sold/RIP), '04 Lincoln Town Car Ultimate

Sooner or later every car falls apart, ours does it later!
-German Narrator in a MB Promotion Film about the then brand new W123.

Elsbet is not foolproof. Their system is designed for virgin canola oil. Put in used soy and you will have a whole host of problems if you don't filter and dewater the living cr@p out of it. I know about that -- my best oil comes from a Chinese restaurant, it titrates to less than 2, but it does not pass a hot pan test for water. I ran this WVO, filtered to 5 microns, for a spring and summer before retiring the car. Every part of the fuel system was in process of gumming up. I attribute this mostly to the small amount of water in the used oil. Not enough to cause problems brewing biodiesel, but it will eventually cause problems in any WVO system, heated or not.

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'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88
'01 VW Beetle TDI
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD
'89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T
'78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110
Oil Burner Kartel #35

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg