Need to turn engine to access torque converter plug
 

Anyone know the proper/best/easiest way to turn the engine, so I can access the torque converter plug on the trannie on an 85 300D?

Thanks,

aa

easiest way is like when you are doing the valve adjustments...from the crank bolt.

have someone under the car tell you when to stop of have them turn it....


remember never turn the engine backwards....always clockwise when standing in front of the car.

Use a screwdriver to turn the converter around.

No, use the crank bolt.

crank
 

you risk breaking a fin on the torque convertor if you rotate it with a flat head screwdriver

If I remember, it's a 27mm socket, rotate the engine clockwise (looking from standing at the front of the car). I think you'll need like a 2-3 extension

Last time I did it I turned the engine while laying under the car with the front of the car on jackstands and watched the convertor rotate (turn a little - take a peek to see when the drain bolt was coming around with a flashlight, then small nudges on the crank until it was in position)

underneath with your head toward the passenger side, right hand on ratchet handle, pull toward you to make engine rotate clockwise. Fingers of left hand through access hole at bottom of bellhousing, just touching bottom and backside of torque converter. When the drain plug rotates around, you'll feel it. It's that easy!

Get a remote starter and just bump it. Its real easy to do and you dont have to dink around with the crank bolt.

Oh man, I had my car up on a hoist already and the pan off and couldn't lower the car since it was peeing trans fluid so I just grabbed the crank pulley and turned it little by little while someone else watched. My fingers were on fire. I also say use the crank bolt, its not worth is hurting yourself or risk the engine starting by bumping it over with the starter.

Not so. How is the engine going to start with the ignition off?? It wont.

Remote starters are designed to bump the starter. You will NOT get hurt.

I think I am going to do this by turning the key with the "STOP" lever under the hood in the stop position. This way the car can't start.

This should do it.

Perhaps this is unrelated, but perhaps not.

I assume that you're changing the transmission fluid. Is anyone other than myself leery of running the torque converter while dry unless absolutely necessary? I plan to change the fluid in my transmission this spring, but plan to drain and refill several times, replacing the filter on the last drain, to change most of the fluid while avoiding running the converter while dry. Is this completely unnecessary? As I don't have an electronically-controlled transmission (same as the OP), mine takes cheap fluid.

You dont need to have the stop lever pushed, just have the key in the off position. The car will not start because the shutoff valve holding. Now if your shut off valve is not working, its a different story.

DG;
Where exactly is the Shutoff Valve on mt 300D?

and FWIW. MattL .. I am not going to drain the torque converter or any fluid at all until after I rotate the TC to line up the drain plug. Where did you get this idea????

Are you talking about just draining the pan and doing a repeat "dilution"? I don't understand why.

The recommended procedure is to drain the pan and convertor, fill with 4 qts then start the engine. Once the engine cranks over a few times most of the fluid will be back in the torque convertor. Then top off with the remaining 2 qts after the new fluid is warmed up.

That's exactly what I'm talking about, Blue. Seems like it would be no harder, and I could easily get 95% of the fluid changed. I know that the convertor doesn't run dry for long, but it does run dry if you drain it.

Austin, I have no idea to what you're referring.