I have seen many references about breaking behr radiator necks. Anyone know what an appropriate torque to tighten hose clamps would be, I did a google search on the general topic and saw a reference on hose clamps at 22-in-lbs. Does this seem like a bit to much for a plastic neck?

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87 300SDL (115,000mi. 7/1/2008)
03 Jetta Wagon TDI (62,000mi. 7/1/2008)
75 240D(sold, sad to sell it, needed the garage for the SDL!)

Smokey

just take your screw driver and tighten it gentlly...
then start the car and look for leaks... then just tighten
a little more until there is no water seeping out...

if you have the old radiator then you must be extra careful...


if you have a new radiator it has a metal insert but still i would
exercise caution....

this is a big deal and torque is not the answer.

Just tighten it don't go nuts. No one torques hose clamps. Sometimes they will leak when it gets cold, just snug the clamp up a bit more.

After a few heat cycles usually you need to cut the hose to get it off anyway.


One school of thought is to dump the MB hose clamps and use wider generic clamps on the radiator. I buy into this and have done so, makes sense wider band distributes the load better.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

I agree with Hatterasguy. Replace poorly engineered clamps with the wider stainless screw clamps. The wider clamps put more surface area contact with the coolant conduit, be it radiator, block, etc. As said, it so easy to over tighten hose clamps. Breaking the neck on the radiator is only one of the dangers. The other danger is cutting through the hose. I always make sure the coolant conduit is clean with no "bumpy" deposits which make it more difficult to get a good seal. Also, keeping the edge of the clamp about 1/8" to 1/4" from the sealing rib is optimal, in my opinion.

why not use a T bolt Clamp?
Jake

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the neck of my radiator broke last summer so i replaced it with a junk yard
one and we broke the nipple to the overflo by overtightening.... so i am very catious in this area.. i salvaged the radiator with a vacuum connector and so on my neck i have 2 hose clams instead of just one ...

so if you have the old radiator without the metal insert you might consider using 2 clamps and then just tighten them lightly until it does not leak...

My mechanic added a second hose clamp, just as you suggest. He also suggested replacing the radiator with the newer style. I probably will not do that as long as the current one is OK.

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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
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"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
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IMHO, best rule for torquing hose clamps anywhere on the car including fuel lines, valve cover vapor/breather lines and radiator hoses...... tighten em just to the point where the clamp cant be rotated or moved from side to side - probly about 10-16lbs.

22-28lb range is generally considered kosher for most miscelaneous nuts'n bolts like water pumps, alterntor brackets, etc..... Its roughly a gentle touch with typical short handled rachet, not leaning into it or exerting alot of force.