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Brakes 83 300D W123
HELP. I was doing my snow to regular tire swap and now realize why my brakes feel so bad, there basically aren't any left. I will need to do 4 calipers and 4 rotors. The calipers are my big concern. I am totally unable to make out any marks that indicate Bendix vs ATE in the front and Bendix, ATE, Girling in the rear.
I am planning to replace all 4 with loaded sets of a single brand. Does it matter what I order as long as I maintain the same brand all around? Is there any special master cylinder requirement for the different brands, proportioning valve etc? How do the rear rotors come off? I know to be sure about the e-brake being released. Does it just more or less bang off after the caliper is removed? I'm not interested in trying to rebuild the calipers, I need to do this job very quickly, like one afternoon. I have the rotors and have done fronts on another w123. I've never attempted the rears though. Thanks for any and all advise.
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1985 300D 197K - Semi-Daily Driver Diesel 1998 Volvo V70 AWD 226K - Daily Driver 2 1998 Volvo S70 140K - Wife's DD 2003 GMC Sonoma ZR2 Option - Rusty Truck THE BABY 1958 220S Sedan 66K All original, never restored and never will be. |
#2
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Rear is easier than the front and the rear calipers unbolt just like the front ones. Change the brake fluid while you are doing the job. Can you post some pics of your existing calipers to help id them?
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Jim |
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and
really you dont have to match the brands either. they are 100% interchangable.
personally i like the ate better. tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#4
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Here's some pics of the current brakes. For a time, I had three 300D's, all 83. I got my self tangled up keeping track of what work I had done on which car. Guess I plain let this one slip a little too long. A real mess but should be an easy fix with all new parts and a good flush.
These are the fronts, rear's coming.
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1985 300D 197K - Semi-Daily Driver Diesel 1998 Volvo V70 AWD 226K - Daily Driver 2 1998 Volvo S70 140K - Wife's DD 2003 GMC Sonoma ZR2 Option - Rusty Truck THE BABY 1958 220S Sedan 66K All original, never restored and never will be. |
#5
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And the rear unit.
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1985 300D 197K - Semi-Daily Driver Diesel 1998 Volvo V70 AWD 226K - Daily Driver 2 1998 Volvo S70 140K - Wife's DD 2003 GMC Sonoma ZR2 Option - Rusty Truck THE BABY 1958 220S Sedan 66K All original, never restored and never will be. |
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I found a pair of front and rear rebuilts loaded calipers at Autozone. I'm going to have them order tomorrow so I can compare with the old ones. They did OK for fronts for my old Mazda. Hope to have the old thing back running safe by Friday. RI changed it's inspection for diesel cars, they do an opacity test now. My car's never been a big smoker so I hope it will pass. A two year inspection now, just like the cars. Got an eezibleed thing for flushing out the brakes. Works well with the MB but so far the mityvac's been better for the other cars.
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1985 300D 197K - Semi-Daily Driver Diesel 1998 Volvo V70 AWD 226K - Daily Driver 2 1998 Volvo S70 140K - Wife's DD 2003 GMC Sonoma ZR2 Option - Rusty Truck THE BABY 1958 220S Sedan 66K All original, never restored and never will be. |
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i have been keeping five or six
cars on the road for about ten years.
the only way to keep track is to keep a log on each car. and dont forget to write down what you did! tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#8
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Quote:
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have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it |
#9
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What's the big deal with remanned calipers? I've just ordered a front one for my car. They sell the "rebuild kits" for $20, but then you have to make sure it doesn't leak, or squeak. I'm no expert, so I opted for the already rebuilt caliper for $80.
If the metal is good, then it's just a replacement of the seals and setting the angle properly. If the metal is bad, then they won't rebuild them. And the caliper metal is no worse for wear after 2 miles or 200K. (AFAIK) |
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