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#1
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Which bushings to replace?
I just recently got new tires on my sd and I'm experiencing a wierd kinda floaty feeling in the back end, kinda like it wants to steer itself. The old tires that came off where worn on the inside really bad. I ran a few searches and deduced that I need new subframe bushings or rear end bushings. Which ones, are most likely to be the culprit and is it a hard job? or is it something that I should have done?
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"spreading a trail of obnoxious where ever we go" 1981 300sd w/ 341,500 miles http://www.wecrash.com/pics/ddda_banner.gif |
#2
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i would change subframe bushings,and trailing arm bushings. the subframe bushings are usually what causes the wander.
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have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it ![]() |
#3
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Some one told me it was the trailing arm bushings because the tires are wearing on the inside. Would that happen if it where the subframe bushings?
__________________
"spreading a trail of obnoxious where ever we go" 1981 300sd w/ 341,500 miles http://www.wecrash.com/pics/ddda_banner.gif |
#4
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subframe bushings will do that too. i personally would do all of the bushings on the rear end at once. i learned my lesson about putting a bandaid on things.
__________________
have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it ![]() |
#5
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My car wanders a bit in the rear too.....I will probably look into some new bushings/shocks at some point.....but not for now. No $$
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__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- ![]() '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#6
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Yeah, I've been avoiding that for a while, I guess I'll go ahead and and drop the dough. The cool thing is, I can get all the work done for free. The auto shop at a local Community College will do all of it. They let kids in the advance classes work on cars that people bring in. I was talking to a friend who goes there and the shop is amazing, they have some of the nicest equipment around. I'm sure they could do a better job with a lift and hydraulic spring compressor and whatnot, than I can do lying on my back on the concrete. Plus, I'm a lazy arse.
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__________________
"spreading a trail of obnoxious where ever we go" 1981 300sd w/ 341,500 miles http://www.wecrash.com/pics/ddda_banner.gif |
#7
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The subframe bushings and the differential mount will have the most pronounced effect on the ride height in the rear. If the vehicle is sagging, the camber will go more negative and wear the inside of the tires.
If the vehicle is not sagging, then, it's possible the trailing arm bushings are the culprit, but, if they were so bad that the tires are wearing, you'd feel a serious squirrely feeling when you drive it. The trailing arm bushings are the cheapest of the bunch of parts, but, require a huge amount of work to install. If you are getting the labor for free........definitely have them done. And, can you kindly follow up in this thread with some photos of the removed trailing arm bushings? I doubt they are the culprit, but, would welcome a photo of the old one's for a solid conclusion. |
#8
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Well I'm getting ready to replace those subframe bushings, Anyone got any tips or directions?
__________________
"spreading a trail of obnoxious where ever we go" 1981 300sd w/ 341,500 miles http://www.wecrash.com/pics/ddda_banner.gif |
#9
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Quote:
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#10
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The bushings are going on the 81 300sd. Are there any tricks that I should maybe know about?
__________________
"spreading a trail of obnoxious where ever we go" 1981 300sd w/ 341,500 miles http://www.wecrash.com/pics/ddda_banner.gif |
#11
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Quote:
You want to support the subframe when you remove the large bolts that hold the bushings in place. Don't let it hang via the differential mount. Getting the bushings out can be a bit of a PITA. I used the lip of a crowbar and hammered downward to force them out. You don't have much of a lip to pull against. Fortunately, they are not overly tight like the W123. They should arrive with an "L" and an "R" stamped on them. Left side and right side........they are slightly different for some reason. The threads on the bolts are fine threads. Be careful not to crossthread them when you start them back in. |
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