well friday eve. i had the car ideling and it started running real ruogh and died. i started it up, with some cranking, and looked under the hood. air bubbles in the pre filter.
i drove around town a little, no problems. sat am, i barely made it home.

now, if i crank it , it chokes and sputters . takes maybe 5 minutes to get running, and still sucking air.

now i crawled under and found a fuel clamp rusted thru back by the tank. i replaced and checked all the others.

there is an after market doo-dad under there, tee'd into the lower (supply?) line. it has two wires and a vacuum line going to it. it is a webasto product.any one know what it is. i am away from home, so cant post a pic now. the vac line goes into a little dash pot looking thing, and the fuel line is teed in, but dead ends.

could that be a problem? my plan is to drain tank and replace rubber(old) fuel lines at the tank and at the pump. i am planning a wvo conversion, and was thinking of using two electric pumps, instead of a valve and the lift pump. any advise on a pump? will the facets from autozone work ok?

thanks, mo

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

oh yeah- any one know off hand the I.D. of fuel lines?, and what/where to buy?

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

the lines at the back come with fittings from the factory. i recommend getting them. they arent much $. standard lines from the auto parts place are much lower quality and dont last any time at all. i prob would start by removing the alien part and heaving it over the hill. and i would treat for fungus in the tank for good measure.

good luck

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

i agree about the clamps. but i am in a small town and cannot get oem parts. i replaced the clamp w/ a worm drive type, but plan on getting fuel injection clamps w/ new fuel line. is ti 5/16, 3/8 or metric? the lower line on the tank is supply, correct?

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

Webasto makes fuel pumps so perhaps it is a fuel pump someone added back at the tank for some extra push. People often due this if using thicker fuels like veg. blends. Or perhaps your mechanical lift pump is going south so someone added the pusher pump to lessen the strain on it.

You should at least replace the rubber fuel line and threaded fitting coming out of the tank and remove the tank strainer and clean it. If you plan on using the stock tank for veggie oil, you should remove the tank, clean it, and ditch the strainer.

The single hose on the bottom of the tank is the out port and the double hoses on the driver side are the return and tank vent. The OEM fuel line is metric but 5/16 will do it, however you need the threaded fitting as well and those threads are metric. On my 240D the threaded fitting (brass) was rusted to the tank strainer fitting (aluminum) so they came out as one unit. Once I got it on a vice and used some PB blaster they came apart.
You can get the part online and a new tank strainer as well, but IMO the tank strainer is nothing but a headache so remove it and let your primary filter catch the gunk.

There is a great deal of discussion going on on the biodieselinfopop site regarding various ways to plumb the 123 fuel system. You should do some reading over ther if you haven't already.

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83' 240D 204,000 miles SVO conversion - Heated Pickup Stock Tank, 3 Gallon purge fuel tank, HOH, Coolant heated filter, FPHE, 2 Greasecar Valves. 12V pump for Veg. and stock pump for purge fuel. Injector overflow return to veg. tank.

98' VW TDI Jetta SVO Conversion 154,000 miles/57,000 WVO miles

so i found the leak- it is the steel fuel line right where it is clamped to the body above the rear sub frame, just about the hrdest place one could imagine to get at. I plan on routing a temp. plastic fuel line all the way to the lift pump, while bypassing the webasto part. I dont think it is a pump, because the fuel line dead ends to it, and than a vac line goes up to the engine compartment. also wires go to a relay under hood, but have not figured out what it is yet. i plan on dropping the rear sub frame and r&r on the bushings,etc s at that time i can re-route some ss or alum fuel line.

thanks, Mo

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

mobetta,

Just replace the rusted section with a 5/16 rubber fuel line and 2 clamps that U can get at any autoparts store.

No need to replace entire fuel line. Cut off both ends of the original fuel beyond the leak where it is easy to get at. Then attach the rubber fuel line.

Been there, done that.

P E H

yeah, that might work now that i am home and can put it up on ramps, but the leak is right above the rear subframe mounts. pain in the ... but i did get home today. i used 15 feet of vynl fuel line. is that ok for diesel, any one know? it was .65 a foot, so i'm not out much. i did get fuel injection clamps,too. not a stumble once i got her to fire up.100 mile trip home was fine.

thanks, mo

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.