Steering wheel lock problem - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

engatwork · #16 05-01-2006, 05:55 PM

There used to be a pic posted around here that had a pic of looking down into the lock and being able to see the piece that wears down in the steering lock. You can always just do the tumbler and then if it requires a new steering lock you should be able to tell.

bgkast · #17 05-02-2006, 06:25 PM

Good point. I will take a look for that picture. Thanks

bgkast · #18 06-27-2006, 08:23 PM

I guess it was the steering lock after all. I replaced the cylinder and it locked up again. After a long and frustrated wiggling session the key will still not budge. Does anybody have any advice on how to get the key to turn again so I can get the new cylinder out and replace or disable the steering lock? Thank you. –Bryan

Diesel Giant · #19 06-27-2006, 09:33 PM

I did one and did a pictorial on it.

http://dieselgiant.com/repairignitionlock.htm

bgkast · #20 06-27-2006, 10:09 PM

Yeah, I saw it, but I was hoping I could find a way to do it with out tearing the whole dash apart.

How does the wheel lock work? Since I know the tumbler is good is there a chance that I could use brute force to disengage the wheel lock?

Edit: I re-read your pictorial and can't figure out which pin you ground down. Do you have a "before" picture? Was all of the grinding damage limited to the ignition lock?

Hirnbeiss · #21 06-28-2006, 06:32 AM

It shows where to drill the hole in the tumbler face if you can't get the key to position II to allow the wire to work.
I saw it for sale on the internet once about two years ago.

mespe · #22 06-28-2006, 08:58 AM

The steering wheel lock will lock the steering wheel when the key is pulled OUT. I was able to pinch the end of the locking mechanism so that the steering wheel is never locked. i.e. the locking tab never protrudes from the shaft. I never had the can't turn the key problem again. Cost = .02¢

Marty

AYSCII · #23 06-28-2006, 10:35 AM

The steering lock/switch I have been working on is in a '87 300SDL so it might be slightly different:

It sounds like the protrusion from the lock mechanism to the steering wheel is binding up. I'd try to loosen the whole assembly and then see if you can get the key to turn, then remove the whole thing and take a look at it.

On my 300SDL, you only have to pull the instrument cluster out and to the left side to get access. The whole cluster with just pull straight out with the help of two L-shaped levers to get it started on each side. Once pulled out and away, dangleing to the left, you have access to where the switch assmebly goes into the steering column. There is one bolt, with a #5 allen head to remove. It is on the top of the shaft that angles away from the switch assembly, the shaft going into the steering column. I used a allen socket, 3/8 inch drive and it just fit in there and was able to use a regular 3/8 drive ratchet to turn it. You may find a regular L-shaped #5 allen gets in there easier to first break the bolt free. Once that bolt is out, it may free the binding and you can turn the key. You will not be able to pull the assembly out until you can turn the key. Also, once you get the key turned to position 2, there is a small pin to push in before the assembly will slide out of the column. It can be seen/pushed from the left side of the key switch hole through the dash (with the round flange removed). Some long pointy tool, like an ice pick will easily push it in while you pull the switch assembly to the right.

To disconnect the switch assembly from the wireing harness, make sure the switch is in possition 2 with the key, and just pull the electrical portion straight away from the back.

Once free of the steering column and harness, you can fanagle the switch assembly out of the dash through where the instrument cluster was pulled back. Mine has two small sets of wires (buzzer and ?) to unplug, plus two vacume lines going to the shut-off valve on the engine. Remove those to get it out completely, try to note which color vac line goes to which side on the switch assembly so you can get it back right the first time...

Once it's out, you could easily cut off the protrusion going into the column. In fact, I have considered this just in case I ever have a cylinder problem.

The reason I'm into mine is there is a piece internaly broken in my switch assembly, a T shaped piece that broke. I've tried JB Weld twice to fix it as someone else has here, and I may try once more with another type of epoxy otherwise I need a new assembly.

All the drilling and such on DieselGiant was because he could not get the key to turn, I think, because he did it while it was in the dash. Once done,whether in or out of the dash, it would eliminate needing the key to remove it all, other than the electrical harness, unless you did something inside the switch to make it able to be removed in any key position.

bgkast · #24 06-28-2006, 03:23 PM

Thanks for the help. I think I will try the vibration method just for the heck of it, and then when that does not work try to loosen up the lock assembly from the column to try to get it free. If any body has any other tips or tricks to try I'm all ears (or eyes in this case) -Bryan

BillA · #25 06-28-2006, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mespe

The steering wheel lock will lock the steering wheel when the key is pulled OUT. I was able to pinch the end of the locking mechanism so that the steering wheel is never locked. i.e. the locking tab never protrudes from the shaft. I never had the can't turn the key problem again. Cost = .02¢

Marty

Can you explain what you pinched ?

I am leaving the wheel cocked so the lock will not engage, when I forget it is 100 attempts or so to unlock it; a REAL PITA.

bgkast · #26 06-28-2006, 05:44 PM

I'll take some pictures of how I disable mine if I can get the @$#& thing to free up.

jimdbrr · #27 06-28-2006, 08:34 PM

I had the same problem this week. You've got to get the key into the second position, then stick a paper clip into the little hole at the outside of the ring around the tumbler (with the key still in). Wiggle it around and it will go in futher and the key and tumbler should come out together. I didn't have time to fix the steering lock so I cut a small cube of plastic about 1/8 x 1/8 and filled it to fit in the hole down in the tumbler hole that has the tappered movable deal that keeps the lock from engaging. I then put the tumbler (with key in it ) back in with the little plastic block still jammed in. Works great but the car won't shut off and the radio only plays rapp..........! it works fine but the key buzer stays on till you close the door cost $0

bgkast · #28 06-28-2006, 09:28 PM

I decided to give the thing one more try before I got out the dremel and I got it free! I also think I have found the problem. There is a little wedge behind the tumbler that needs to be depressed to disengage the steering lock. I have attached pictures of the inside of the lock in the following positions:1)ignition off steering lock not engaged, 2)ignition off steering lock engaged, and 3) wedge depressed and ignition partially turned.

It seems that my wedge is slightly gummed up and will sometimes not spring back properly. I think I will take out the steering lock and see if I can free it up.

To those that are more familiar with the lock device does this fix sound plausible, and how can I tell if the steering lock mechanism is worn? Also what depresses the wedge with the cylinder in place? There does not seem to be an obvious mechanism for depressing it on the back of the cylinder. Thank you.

bgkast · #29 06-28-2006, 10:41 PM

After playing with it more I am not sure that the "sticky wedge" is the problem. Does any body know about the quality of the $78.45 one on fastlane or should I shell out $200+ for the OEM part?

jwhughes3 · #30 06-29-2006, 12:44 AM

see my post here

Did the ignition switch fix - what a PITA!

I had a time with it bit it's smooth as silk now without the locking bolt.

John