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  #1  
Old 05-08-2006, 06:34 PM
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pre chamber gas leak

Well let me start by saying I hate my engine, it shakes after Tomj balanced my new bosio nozzles and everything else I've done. Heres the problem... now the #5 injector has a large amount of smoke pouring from it. The only thing I could think of was a bad pre-chamber? What do I need to know about pre-chambers, removal, etc...?

(on the shake i've;
replaced injectors
valve adjustment last year
rack dampner bolt
new motor mounts
cam offset key)

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Last edited by rg2098; 05-08-2006 at 08:08 PM.
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  #2  
Old 05-08-2006, 07:00 PM
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number 6 injector? in an 83 om617? what
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  #3  
Old 05-08-2006, 07:10 PM
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That could explain why its smoking if its the #6 injector on an OM617!

Just kidding.
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'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
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Old 05-08-2006, 08:09 PM
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Obviously its an OM617 with 5. I apologize for the typo. Now any actual advice?
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  #5  
Old 05-08-2006, 08:45 PM
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gimme a low-tech 240D
 
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By smoke, am thinking you mean external diesel fuel cooking at the injector indent on the cyl head. First thing I'd check is return lines, then the coupling where the tube meets the injector. I once cracked the pipe under the fitting where it meets the #1 injector on my 240D by NOT attaching all the pipe couplings, it cracked right above the flared end of the pipe probly through engine vibration. What makes you accuse the pre-comb chamber of leaking? If it was me I'd suspect installation of the injector.
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  #6  
Old 05-08-2006, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 240DieselDog
By smoke, am thinking you mean external diesel fuel cooking at the injector indent on the cyl head. First thing I'd check is return lines, then the coupling where the tube meets the injector. I once cracked the pipe under the fitting where it meets the #1 injector on my 240D by NOT attaching all the pipe couplings, it cracked right above the flared end of the pipe probly through engine vibration. What makes you accuse the pre-comb chamber of leaking? If it was me I'd suspect installation of the injector.
I can feel air puffing in tune with the RPMs.
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Old 05-08-2006, 08:55 PM
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gimme a low-tech 240D
 
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Then that eliminates external fuel leaks.... What about the injector seal? Or you might get lucky and be able to set the pre-comb chamber with a brass drift and hammer. Seek out Leatherman on this forum, he's pulled and cleaned pc chambers. No experience with them myself. Good luck.
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  #8  
Old 05-08-2006, 09:12 PM
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How is it on power?

Can you confirm that #5 is firing and making power?

Can you crack the injector line for #5 and notice a drop in revs?

Just curious if the cylinder is OK. Naturally a compression test would confirm this, but, the equipment would need to be borrowed from you know who..........
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  #9  
Old 05-08-2006, 09:53 PM
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Well...... I re-soldered my cruise amp this evening and after my test drive it decided to stop puffing so I guess it's fixed itself. I'll keep you posted if it returns. Quite a bizzar circumstance.
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  #10  
Old 05-08-2006, 10:01 PM
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Good to hear that the puffing went away! How about the cruise amp? I resoldered mine and it didn't work at all, just does the same thing it always did (doesn't work at all, or floors it). I am thinking about just sending it in to that lab to have it refurbished. I do a lot of freeway travel and I wish it worked, I am getting sick of holding the pedal.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #11  
Old 05-08-2006, 10:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD
Good to hear that the puffing went away! How about the cruise amp? I resoldered mine and it didn't work at all, just does the same thing it always did (doesn't work at all, or floors it). I am thinking about just sending it in to that lab to have it refurbished. I do a lot of freeway travel and I wish it worked, I am getting sick of holding the pedal.
I do roughly 20 miles a day on the freeway so its nice to have although not necessary. I only did half of the connections until I got tired and plugged it in and did a test drive with it dangling. It worked flawlessly and hopefully I won't have to pull it again.
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  #12  
Old 05-08-2006, 11:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rg2098
I do roughly 20 miles a day on the freeway so its nice to have although not necessary. I only did half of the connections until I got tired and plugged it in and did a test drive with it dangling. It worked flawlessly and hopefully I won't have to pull it again.
I did as many as I could when I was soldering till my eyes went: (after about an hour)

Still doesn't work....I suspect it has bad components or something.

In regards to yours working after the soldering... Luccckyyyy! -Napoleon Dynamite
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #13  
Old 05-08-2006, 11:21 PM
Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD
I did as many as I could when I was soldering till my eyes went: (after about an hour)

Still doesn't work....I suspect it has bad components or something.

In regards to yours working after the soldering... Luccckyyyy! -Napoleon Dynamite
The amp in my wife's 240D is still a little flaky too. I followed the GDL procedure and verified that both the actuator and switch work correctly, but the cruise only works when it feels like it. I drove it about 1000 miles yesterday (long story) and it worked most of the way, but it seems to overshoot quite a bit, maybe 5 mph, then drop back to the setting. It's getting annoying. I'll probably just get a rebuilt unit one of these days.
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  #14  
Old 05-09-2006, 12:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig
The amp in my wife's 240D is still a little flaky too. I followed the GDL procedure and verified that both the actuator and switch work correctly, but the cruise only works when it feels like it. I drove it about 1000 miles yesterday (long story) and it worked most of the way, but it seems to overshoot quite a bit, maybe 5 mph, then drop back to the setting. It's getting annoying. I'll probably just get a rebuilt unit one of these days.

When mine does "work" thats exactly what it does, it will go up 5mph from where I "set" it, then when it hits that it drops off the throttle completely, falls 5mph, then floors it to get back up to the 5mph over again....and it does this continually and usually just cuts out after a few times, or if I press the switch to increase or decrease it cuts out completely and often won't work again on that drive. I'm thinking rebuild....
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #15  
Old 05-09-2006, 12:12 AM
Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD
When mine does "work" thats exactly what it does, it will go up 5mph from where I "set" it, then when it hits that it drops off the throttle completely, falls 5mph, then floors it to get back up to the 5mph over again....and it does this continually and usually just cuts out after a few times, or if I press the switch to increase or decrease it cuts out completely and often won't work again on that drive. I'm thinking rebuild....
Mine's not that bad (yet), it with overshoot once than go back to the proper speed and stay there for a couple of hundred miles. Other days, it just doesn't work. It seems to work better at highway speeds, it almost never works at 40-50 mph. Definitely time for a rebuild, stuff that doesn't work just pisses me off.

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