Remember the thread a while back that discussed buying and replacing the diodes in the clock to get it running? I did a search and the link was bad. Does anyone know of a working link for clock repair? Thanks in advance!

Keith

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1983 300SD "Helga"

Try this one.

http://diymbrepair.com/easley/clock.htm

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79 240D (no name yet) 203K Miles Maple Yellow
98 2500 4x4 HD Dodge 24 Valve Cummins TD
83 Chevy Van (Dead-Trans. shot)

Thanks.....that link looks like it will work. I'll try my hand at clock repair within the next few weeks.

Keith

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1983 300SD "Helga"

http://www.benz-store.com/clock_repairs.html

You might consider those guys for having it fixed.

Michael

I repaired my dash clock today. Note the above mentionned car details, in mine, there was only 1 capacitor and replaced it with a 35Vdc - 100uF.

There was a problem with the ground pin, the soldering was cracked on the clock board itself. I resoldered, put back in place and soldered the ground pin to the metal casing in the back of the cluster.

Clock works great and keeps its time accurately. I'll see in the long run how it turns out because I wasn't the first one to open it up, I could clearly see that someone else had tempered with a few other soldering points on the little clock board.

So the writeup for a W123 which I used as a reference is correct except for the number of capacitors (only 1 in my car).

Bye,

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BigBen

'98 E300 Turbodiesel 244 000km
RIP '92 300D 2,5 Turbo 632 859,4km due to engine failure

The link is now dead, does someone mind posting another link that works?

http://web.archive.org/web/20071013023637/http://diymbrepair.com/easley/clock.htm

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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone.

It was replacement of the electrolytic capacitors. I believe iirc, there are 2. Avaliable at radioshack. I did my clock, and the timer on the dome light,
that was a transistor. The clock was an easier repair, if you know how to
solder well. The values and polarity on the caps in the clock are marked.
Just take 'em out and replace. A "solder-sucker" tool helps, but I've done
similar things without it. Just be careful not to over heat things. With no
solder sucker I quickly made a solder "puddle" that encompasses both board connections then gently press the cap side ways. Repeat in the other direction heating gently. When it comes off, then heat the hole and
quickly blow with your mouth on the hole to blow out the solder, so the new leads can go in. Then solder in the new cap, clip off the leads and you're golden. You can buy the solder sucker to at radioshack for 20 bucks.
Makes it a lot easier.

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85 300TD FED-Daily
84 300SD-Wife's
86 XJS-Sunday
66 GMC-Work- Given to my stepson
83 BMW Airhead- Given to my stepson

In the time it took me to type my reply okyoureabeast posted a GREAT
tutorial link. I even copy and pasted that one into my own archive and I know how to do it. Plagarisim aside that should be made into a sticky
of some sort.

__________________
85 300TD FED-Daily
84 300SD-Wife's
86 XJS-Sunday
66 GMC-Work- Given to my stepson
83 BMW Airhead- Given to my stepson