|
|
|
#31
|
|||
|
|||
You got it. Just left over diesel gunk.
Cheers, Bill |
#32
|
|||
|
|||
Black usually indicates fungus. Some Biobar, Prist or some other fungicide should take care of it.
__________________
Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#33
|
|||
|
|||
Does anyone have experience removing the tank screen on a 190D? I've looked at the service manual and read the threads I could find, but I'm still unclear. I'm not sure if it's the same setup as on a 300D. When I crawl under my car and look at it, the large nut is not visible from below. It seems like it's behind the large oval plate.
If someone has removed the tank filter screen on a 190D, I would appreciate a bit of direction. Thanks, Jason
__________________
1984 190D 2.2 |
#34
|
|||
|
|||
Baum Tools item# M0035 Fuel Tank Filter Wrench
I did a search for Baum Tools item# M0035 Fuel Tank Filter Wrench with no success.
Where can I purchase such? Anyone know what the Mercedes part number(s) is for their special wrench and/or socket? Thanks
__________________
JWJ 1983 MB 300D - > 430,000 miles - Deep Blue - Bilstein Comforts - 0-60 in 24 seconds - 27MPG 1985 MB 300TD (wagon) - > 275,000 miles - Manila Beige - Thule rack - 0-60 in 18 seconds - 22 - 25MPG Biodiesel, Mobil Delvac 1, and Viton fuel lines! |
#35
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Cheers, Bill |
#36
|
||||
|
||||
I pulled the tank screen out of the 300SD this past weekend while changing the hoses and the thing was absolutely spotless. Everything they say about the biod (20%) must be true in regards to keeping the system cleaned out.
__________________
Jim |
#37
|
||||
|
||||
filter/tank screen
I'm new to this site and have spent all afternoon reading threads in hopes of finding a solution to my problem. Please forgive me if this isn't the proper place to ask for help.... Might be screen problem???
I bought my 85 300td wagon 1 year ago after it had been sitting for 2 years. I replaced the primary and secondary filters and was able to crank the vehicle in the driveway of the seller and drive it off. The power was so bad I didn't even make it up the hill the first time. the more i drove the better it got. (more fuel ect...) Now It has been 1 year and the same thing is happening. I have run Bio on and off but mostly diesel from busy stations. I have replace both fuel filters and still the power has degraded to the point of almost not making it in traffic (even in neutral it almost doesn't want to rev up more than 1000 rpm. It seems to have plenty of fuel or at least no apparent air going through the primary filter. any help would be nice. |
#38
|
|||
|
|||
Does the problem seem to be worse after you have driven it for a while?
The tank screen could definitely be clogged and/or the tank vent might be plugged. Mud Dabbers tend to like to make vent tubes their home.
__________________
Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#39
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
http://tools.baumtools.com/automotive.jsp?menu=mb&submenu1=Engine&submenu2=Fuel%20Supply Hope this helps BTW- the aforementioned socket is made quite well and costs as such- if I had to do it again I might find a 46mm socket at a flea mkt and saw-cut it down shallow which would fit the bill just fine, but the Baum socket is very very nice
__________________
'02 BMW 325i '85 300D 450k '93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree) '08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k '06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold) |
#40
|
||||
|
||||
I finally hooked up the external pump/filter to my tank that I talked about back on page 1 of this thread. I ran it for 2-3 hours at roughly 1 gpm flow rate. That means that I probably ran about 120-180 gallons through the filter. The tank was 3/4 full with a mix of WVO/Biodiesel/D2, about 15 gallons, so I should have turned the tank over 8-12 times. The pressure gauge on the inlet of the filter is broken so I could not see if pressure went up over time, an indication that a filter is getting dirty. I do know that I put 500 miles on it Sunday and it is not acting like the car's filter's are dirty. Before this I had to change the spin on filter every 500 miles.
I think this is a simpler, easier option to removing your tank IF you have the pump/filter setup. Also, I ran the car with the supply/return lines reversed for about 1500 miles. I think that did a good job of backflushing the screen. I bet it also contributed to the speedy use of filters since return line is close to the screen in the tank. I also read (maybe in this thread) that the return line has a small opening in the tank that also restricts flow when you try to use it as a suction line. That probably contributed to my filters being 'used up'. They probably still have life left in them now that I have it all cleaned out, but I am not likely to reuse them. -Jim
__________________
1995 S350D, Green with black leather interior. Bought January 2008 w/ 233,xxx miles. I did 22,000 miles during the first year of ownership. Last edited by Jadavis; 07-11-2006 at 11:42 AM. |
#41
|
||||
|
||||
low rpm
I think I found the problem! Under the hood I had no problems running rpm up. In the car it ran higher in neutral (no load) but still not as good as under the hood. The accelerator pedal was travelling 3/4 dist before any rpm increase.
The problem was the upper accelerator bushing mounted to the firewall in the engine compartment. New part should be in this afternoon 2pm. $45 Last edited by greasyv; 07-11-2006 at 11:36 AM. Reason: not specific enough |
#42
|
|||
|
|||
Just my experience and your results may vary.
I pulled off the fuel line at the screen, drained the fuel and noted the flow ... steady 3/8" flow ... screen should not be filthy. To prove the point, I added 5 gallons of RUG and drained the tank again. I filtered this fuel. Some crud did filter out of the RUG but not enough to make a difference to the 300SD. So, if your fuel drains fast, you probaly do not have to go further, unless you like pain little boy? Spoken in my best S&M German matron accent. |
#43
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Cheers, Bill |
Bookmarks |
|
|