Today I was driving my 85 300 td wagon and all of a suddon the engine started racing. As I accelerate it would not decenerate. I had to throw it into neutral several times just to get it to stop. I mean, when I threw it in neutral the tac would jump up to 6000 rpm'(I hope i did not damage anything doing that) The pedal also feels funny. I had a hard time getting home, it was like I was fighting the car to hold it back. Someone please help!

I would put the hood all the way up, so that you can stand in the left doorjamb with one foot on the pedal, engine off, and watch the linkage as you push and release the pedal for any unwanted movement, such as a firewall mounted pivot ball thats worn or the like. if that all looks ok, look at the firewall end of the injector pump, at the bottom where the rear support bracket is, there should be a return spring attached to it that goes up to the arm on the injector pump. Also make sure the linkage isnt dragging on anything like nearby injector lines. I'm sure theres other people with more ideas on this, but this is a good start. It almost sounds like a runaway engine, or something binding up simulating that condition.
just my $.02 worth.
-Chris

Is the tranny shifting hard? If so, the linkage to the vacuum modulator could have come off and wedge itself under something.

linkage problem. My wife won't drive mine now, as it did it to her once.

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79 300SD - $50 out of pocket purchase
03 Dodge Ram 3500 CTD
2003 VW Jetta TDI

There can be many possibilities.

Check that the carpet isn't interfering with pedal range of motion
Check that the bushing behind the accelerator pedal is intact and lubed
Check that the throttle linkages are also lubed and all screws/bolts are tight
Check the bushing on the firewall (octagon shaped with a metal pin on top) for smoothness

Do you have problems shutting the car down? Consuming any oil?

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Well it just started doing it yeaterday. I think over the weekend I will get a can of STP or something and spray the linkage down, perhaps there is some corrosion causing it to stick? I am not very handy and usually give the car to my mechanic for this stuff, but now I am affraid to make the trip over there. It was scarry yeasterday, I had to throw it into neutral several times to stop it. The tac poped up to 6000 rpm and when i punch the pedal it came down. I just hope I did not damage the engine or tranny doing this(going from drive to neutral at 6000 rpm)

Does your accelerator creak or anything? Just pop the sockets off the balls on the linkages and put a small amount of grease on them. If you use something too thin it lasts for a couple days, if you use something too thick it makes things bind again. Dont overdo the grease.

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1985 CA 300D Turbo , 213K mi

The engine can take 6000rpm for very short amounts of time. The tranny can't take many neutral drops...

BTW, bold does not help...

I dont think what I did was a neutral drop. Thats when you rev it up in N and then drop it to drive. I did the opposit, I went from Drive to neutral. But now you got me worried. I hope I did not ruin my engine or tranny
I went out and bought a can of gunk spray today and sprayed the crap out of the linkage, it is working much better now, but I think I need to grase those points since the gunk cleaned them up so much

I had problems with the pop off panel underneath the dash interfering with my accelerator. It would stick and I would have to kick the panel to get it to let go.

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green 85 300SD 200K miles "Das Schlepper Frog" With a OM603 TBO360 turbo ( To be intercooled someday )( Kalifornistani emissons )
white 79 300SD 200K'ish miles "Farfegnugen" (RIP - cracked crank)
desert storm primer 63 T-bird "The Undead" (long term hibernation)

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Kobeck, how long ago did you steam clean your engine?

Get rid of the Gunk and get some grease...pop the pieces off, grease the balls and pop them back together.

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1998 W202 C230 - The money pit of late.
1984 W126 300SD (356,800 miles) Gone to the wrenchapart
1984 W123 300D Gone to the wrenchapart
1972 W108 280SE 3.5 (sold but not forgotten)
1986 Buick Grand National 3.8l Turbo (86k miles)
1966 Glassic Model 'A' Replica http://www.glassicannex.org

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Steam clean??? Never. Should Ihave it done?
I will buy some grease tomorrow. Do I just pop the pieces off by hand and grease them? I dont want to break anything

I believe that ATF is the recommended lubricant. You can (carefully) lever the joints apart with a screwdriver and bare hands. Clean each joint, add a drop of ATF, pop back together.

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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

I dont know why they recommend ATF because its so liquidy and runny that it lasts about a day before it wears off. Thin layer of grease seems to be the best way to go.

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1985 CA 300D Turbo , 213K mi

I took the linkage apart and cleaned the connections and used some grease to lube it. the pedal feels beter now, but after about 30 minutes of driving it starts to stick again. I no longer drop it into neutral though, I simply punch the accelerator and it lets go, but 'i a afraid I will do that one day and it wont let go and I'll blow the engine