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#1
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Key stuck 87 300SDL, not sure what to blame
Greetings. I'm not sure what exactly is stuck here, but my key wont turn. It almost makes it to position 1, but stops short and something above the steering column emits a faint metallic click. My wheel is locked. If I rotate the wheel as far as it will go (again, locked) I can feel vibrations in the key as the wheel goes end to end.
I spent thirty minutes / an hour trying to jiggle it into turning on just one more time, but I think I'm really stuck. I'm not sure what could have failed. I suppose its actually not all that important whethers its the cylender or steering lock, as my understanding is that I'll need to have the tumbler drilled out and replace the ignition lock, since I cannot get into position 1. But I'll ask anyways: Is the steering lock the same thing as the ignition lock? What are the most likely failures here? Is there any means of recovery short of drilling out the cylender and replacing everything? This is most unfortunate. The $1000 dealer bill others have reported is way uncool. |
#2
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Have you tried turning the wheel while you turn the key? If the car is shut off and the wheel is turned to its lock it can be very hard to turn the key before releasing the "pre-load" on it which means you need to turn the wheel in the same direction it was turned in before it locked while turning the key in order to release the wheel lock pin.
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Marty D. 2013 C300 4Matic 1984 BMW 733i 2013 Lincoln MKz ![]() |
#3
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It could be the vacuum switch attached to the 'ignition' switch. My vacuum switch failed and it made it impossible to turn the key. Try removing the instrument panel and the kick panel under the dash then loosen the little vacuum switch located on the lower right side of the main switch. It looks like a cylinder with two vacuum hoses coming off it. It has a plunger that can interfere with turning the key.
Good luck!
__________________
"I have no convictions ... I blow with the wind, and the prevailing wind happens to be from Vichy" Current Monika '74 450 SL BrownHilda '79 280SL FoxyCleopatra '99 Chevy Suburban Scarlett 2014 Jeep Cherokee Krystal 2004 Volvo S60 Gone '74 Jeep CJ5 '97 Jeep ZJ Laredo Rudolf ‘86 300SDL Bruno '81 300SD Fritzi '84 BMW '92 Subaru '96 Impala SS '71 Buick GS conv '67 GTO conv '63 Corvair conv '57 Nomad ![]() |
#4
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I tried again while trying to turn the wheel, to no avail. You're right that turning the key after wheel lock takes a lot of of force, unfortunately the turning the wheel thing didnt seem to be enough to get my key working.
What is the most likely to have broken here? Thats one of hte original questions I asked, but its the one thats bugging me the most. I'm wondering if a new key might have any chance of working any better. I cant believe this fiasco is going to cost me so much money, I would never expected my key to stop working. I am trying to think of pre-indicators, but for the most part the ignition seemed to work fine. Once a month it'd be a bit sticky and it'd take some force to turn the key, but I never would have imagined waking up one morning and the key simply not turning at all. |
#5
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If you can take the key in and out and it turns at all then it is not the cylinder which is stuck, it is either the electrical switch, the vacuum switch or the steering lock which is interfering with it. I don't think trying another key will help. Try to do what the other poster said about disconecting the vacuum switch if you can.
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Marty D. 2013 C300 4Matic 1984 BMW 733i 2013 Lincoln MKz ![]() |
#6
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Quote:
Jiggle Jiggle Jiggle the key until you are convinced it won't turn THEN call a locksmith (If there is one that is nearby) or take it to a MB Indy shop that knows their stuff, they may have a mechanical key jiggler (it attaches to an air hose) - neat huh? DDH
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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting! |
#7
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nhdoc, they key turns just a little, probably half way between off and position 1. i think i feel the tumblers enguage.
my guess is its the steering lock, based on the clicking i here and the mechanical feedback i feel between the key and the wheel. assuming this is the case, is there anything i can do about the wheel lock? (is this another name for the ignition lock, or something else?) the car's parked on the street, i've been waiting all day for the guy ahead of me to move. |
#8
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If you remove the panels like I said in an earlier post, you can access the bolt that attaches the wheel lock to the cylinder. try removing the bolt and shifting the cylinder.It might move enough for you to disengage the wheel lock. I still think it is the vacuum switch from your symptoms
__________________
"I have no convictions ... I blow with the wind, and the prevailing wind happens to be from Vichy" Current Monika '74 450 SL BrownHilda '79 280SL FoxyCleopatra '99 Chevy Suburban Scarlett 2014 Jeep Cherokee Krystal 2004 Volvo S60 Gone '74 Jeep CJ5 '97 Jeep ZJ Laredo Rudolf ‘86 300SDL Bruno '81 300SD Fritzi '84 BMW '92 Subaru '96 Impala SS '71 Buick GS conv '67 GTO conv '63 Corvair conv '57 Nomad ![]() |
#9
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Quote:
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#10
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If it's the steering wheel lock that's bad all you have to do is cut your wheels all the way left or right before you cut off the iginition and the steering lock will not engage. If you still have problems, it's the igintion. For the ignition, go to your favorite MB dealer with your title (that's to prove ownership and get the correct VIN number to order the new tumbler set) It will come with a new key (that will still work all your doors and trunk), because they make the key, then set the tumblers to work with the new key. It will cost around $100, but if you ask for your MBCA discount, they will probably drop the price by $20.
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Houston, Texas 1984 300CD 235K miles, Elvira, one owner 1987 300TD 180K miles 1974 TR6 78K miles Sarah Jane, one owner OBK #27 |
#11
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I'll second the suggestion to loosen the clamp on the steering lock shaft.
My car had progressively worse problems with being annoying to get loose, until I finally just bought a replacement steering lock assembly. While it was giving me aggravation, I had the clamp band loose, and with a bit of wiggling the lock assembly up and down while making sure that the wheel wasn't binding up against the lock, it would usually pop loose relatively easily.
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-Josh Testing the cheap Mercedes axiom, one bolt at a time... |
#12
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Certified Registered Nurse Anesthetist (CRNA) 2002 F250 powerstroke with Plantdrive WVO conversion 1983 300SD 190K miles ,sold 2006 E320 CDI |
#13
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I pulled of hte vaccum hoses and it hasnt fixed anything. I'm trying to figure out what the steering lock bolt is so I can fiddle with it, possibly grind/dremel it into dust.
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#14
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Quote:
I thought I had said that in my first post. Sorry if I was not clear The steering lock bolt is on the long tube that runs from the ignition switch to the steering column. Feel along it and you will find a bolt that goes through the clamp.
__________________
"I have no convictions ... I blow with the wind, and the prevailing wind happens to be from Vichy" Current Monika '74 450 SL BrownHilda '79 280SL FoxyCleopatra '99 Chevy Suburban Scarlett 2014 Jeep Cherokee Krystal 2004 Volvo S60 Gone '74 Jeep CJ5 '97 Jeep ZJ Laredo Rudolf ‘86 300SDL Bruno '81 300SD Fritzi '84 BMW '92 Subaru '96 Impala SS '71 Buick GS conv '67 GTO conv '63 Corvair conv '57 Nomad ![]() |
#15
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I hath failed. I pulled out the instrument panel but I dont see any way of unscrewing the vaccuum unit, and I cant really get a good look at the bolt on the steering lock.
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