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#1
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Yes folks I am speaking the truth!
I know the 190d (referring to 1984 190d 2.2L - auto -) is supposed to be a dog, but can it really be this slow? 163k miles More info: -diesel purge recently -both fuel filters are brand new -changed o-rings and copper seals on delivery valves (problem the same before and after this) -car idles great, never spudders... I also know the car is rated at 0-60mph around 19-20 seconds. My car was filled with at 1/4 tank of fuel, just me in the driver's seat, and no other added weight. Coudl the timing be off? Could there be something wrong with my fuel pump/ injection pump? I guess what i'm asking for is: 1) is this the way the car should be?--and live with it? 2) where should I start checking things out? could a vacuum leak cause this...or a vacuum pump on the way out? 3) injection pump? Maybe clogged injectors? My injectors do not leak. 4) injection timing could be off? 5) chain is stretched? Any help in diagnosing this would be most beneficial. Thanks in ADVANCE! -Mike 1984 190d 2.2 auto, 163k, $2900 obo (for sale 810-223-4405) PM/email me for pics Last edited by jetttstream2; 06-23-2006 at 08:41 AM. |
#2
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Make sure the throttle linkage is advancing the pump arm all the way first. Next I would check chain for stretch and then the pump timing. No sense timing the pump if chain is near it's limits. These are pretty cheap checks and pretty easy to do. The pump being retarded could do it in my opinion. It automatically retards as the chain stretches for example.
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#3
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The throttle linkage is good to go, advancing all the way and hitting a hard stop at WOT.
So if the chain is stretched, and the pump has slowly been retard, by advancing my timing on my pump could possibly bring me back to normal? -Mike |
#4
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Make sure you are running the test right.
You've got to have level ground and no wind. You launch the car by selecting the lowest gear and using both feet to load up the drivetrain, then release the brake slowly. Even in the 190D you might be able to get a little bit of wheelspin and keep it from bogging on the launch. Also make sure you are using a stopwatch - best to have someone else doing the timing. Finally, make sure all the accessories (A/C, lights, etc) are off for the test.
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1983 240D automatic, Orient Red, 174K 1983 240D manual, Biscayne Blue, sold at 341K |
#5
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You could reset the pump without checking the chain. The most important reason to check the chain is that beyond a certain limit it starts to damage the pulleys. They are really expensive. Plus of course your cam would be running out quite badly as well. It is still about the simplest thing to do at this point. It can really make a difference. As long as the chain is within allowable wear limits of course retime the pump. If you are prety sure you have good primary fuel flow and the linkage is normal. Checking the pump timing is a regular maintenance thing that is seldom done on some cars.
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#6
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first thing to check any time a diesel is acting up is the fuel filters.
tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. ![]() ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#7
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT ![]() 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" ![]() '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
#8
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Quote:
-Mike |
#9
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Quote:
Would you happen to have any links? I'm going to scour through my (.pdf) manuals on checking the chain and adjusting the pump timing. Could timing be off and the idle be really good? No lumpy or boggy idle here at all. -Mike |
#10
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Thats why a lot of pumps do not get checked. . Idle can be quite nice when the injection pump is retarded. After that perhaps a look at the tank filter or just making sure a good stream of fuel flows out with the fuel line removed at the back if not the timing. If both those things check out I suspect it will require some money being spent when found. Things like injectors being in poor condition come to mind. Low or very uneven compression is another. The real issue is that since a lot of our engines are not overburdened with power you have to maintain things to get as much as you can..
Last edited by barry123400; 06-23-2006 at 03:51 PM. |
#11
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Quote:
Can someone send me a link or two on how to adjust the timing on the 601 engine without any special tools? Sorry guys don't get made at me for searching. I looked through my manuals and I don't have any of those tools and I really didn't understand wtf was goin on! heh. Wish I could slap a timing light on this bad boy! ![]() The filter in the tank---I have never seen one advertised--even on this forum's part shop...maybe I'll ask phil. Can you explain further what you mean about the fuel line removed at the back...are you talking about the fitted fuel line coming out of the tank? Thanks, -Mike |
#12
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If you disconnect the fuel line and tank filter is pretty clear you should have a reasonable stream of fuel. Usually a new filter is not required as it is removable and cleanable if partially obstructed. I do not know the line layout on a 190d. But best area to disconnect for test is near the tank if possible. It just occured to me that your tank may be under the car instead of in the trunk. Just means you have to be a little more creative to initiate fuel flow sometimes. I just still assume mercedes continued with an in tank filter on your model. I also have not timed a 601 so do not even know the proceedure.
Last edited by barry123400; 06-23-2006 at 04:04 PM. |
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