I just wanted to post that when I bought my '84 300 SD almost 2 years ago it had two non-working windows (the driver's and the driver's side rear). The driver's was a bad motor that jbaj was able to fix (thanks Bruce!). The rear was a bad wire that I just was able to diagnose and (in the process) I learned about how the switch works and which wires do what. Now all 4 windows work (at least for the time being ).

I credit my success to this forum. Thanks to everyone who has helped along the way (just by me reading old posts in many cases).

If anyone would like specifics on the rear window switch and the wires and which carry what voltage for each switch setting, please let me know and I will post that information (if it is not already common knowledge).

Dan

Working windows just make life worth living. The few days that my 300d driver side window wasn't working I almost died. You get a lot of funny looks at the drive through when you have to open the door and lean out to get your burrito.

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"spreading a trail of obnoxious where ever we go"
1981 300sd w/ 341,500 miles

http://www.wecrash.com/pics/ddda_banner.gif

I have an 84 300sd with 2 dead windows - driver and pass front. Found this post and wondered if you could give some details about fixing the motors. Been searching the forum, but not turning up details enough to move ahead. The windows are stuck in up (good for not getting rained, bad for heat), the switches test ok for volts and there is voltage at the motor studs. The motors make no sounds.

The other day I pulled the interior door panel on one and undid the star bit screws and pulled the motor housing off to access the magnets. After blasting the innards with electric contact cleaner and putting it all back together it now makes a buzzy sound when the switch is pushed, but no moving.

I don't know how to proceed. How does the motor come out (took off all the bolts I could see but it didn't budge)? How do the brushes come out?

Any advice and photos are appreciated.
Thanks
Ray

baconmobile, welcome to the forum.

The lift motor will detach from the gearbox it drives (2 torx bolts - 25 maybe). May have to tap switch to get corkscrew drive out of the gearbox. You can pull the motor apart..pull up on the cream colored plastic top--inside are the brushes, magnets and comiture sp? You can clean it up well and it will spin like new....OUTSIDE the gearbox. INSIDE the gearbox, the motor failed again in 5 days. What I think happens is...the gearbox gears get worn and restricted...the motor can't turn them...You can only buy a lift motor attached to the gearbox...see pic on thread.

So, generally, the whole regulator must come out (put the motor back on the gearbox first...there is some tension that must be relaxed. 4 - 6 poprivets to pop/drill (1/4" diam, 1/2" or 3/4" long bolts/locknuts to replace poprivets). On the door sheetmetal, popping rivet with a punch, then easy drilling worked well. On the 2 poprivets on the glass, i was scared to punch--so alot of drilling-harder. The window needs to be taped up or propped up with a 2by to remain in place. With regulator out, BEFORE you unbolt the 3 bolts on the gearbox, you must secure the arms near the spring...I drilled a hole thru spring plate and main arm, then bolted them together. Remove old gearbox/motor then install new gearbox/motor. You can remove your securing bolt when you have new gearbox on tight.

Here are some pics of a windstar...not exact to SD but principles are the same...
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=435341&highlight=window

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1983 300SD 307k miles
1993 Ford Escort Wagon 215k miles
1995 Isuzu P'up 214k miles

Thanks a bunch - the photos help. Looks like I was on the right track but didn't go far enough. I'll give it a shot this evening. If I don't get a window to open soon I'm going to die. Rear windows and the sunroof are not enough in this 100 degree summer - the A/C is shot too.

Since someone just asked me about this and I had to dig up my old notes, I thought I'd paste the message I sent to him here for the record:


Here's what I recall (and found scribbled on a piece of paper - its been awhile...). I used 5 ports of the switch. On my drawing, the left side of the switch has 3 holes (with the middle closer to the top than the bottom) and the right side has 2 holes, with the topmost one lined up with the top one on the left and the lower one in between the other 2 on the left side. This is just to establish the orientation of the switch. It looks something like this:

0 ---0
0
-----0
0

where the ones preceded by the dashes are on the right hand side.

The uppermost left one (pin 4) had the brown wire going to it. The uppermost right (pin 7), the green wire with a white stripe. The middle on the left (pin 1), the pure green wire, the lower left (pin 3), the black wire with the stripe, and the lower right the black (pin 2).

Note that on my car the pure black and pure green wires go to the window motor and the others to some combination of the battery and console window switch.

I hope this helps. If you are still haveing trouble, do what I did and connect various wires to the 2 window wires to see which make it go up and down - that will allow you to deduce which wires would go into which switch holes. Also, a 12 V battery can be helpful, too.

Good luck.

Dan

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dannyf
1984 Mercedes 300 SD 214 K miles. Runs on WVO ~ 22 mpg over 8 K on WVO
1997 VW Passat TDI 156 K miles. Uses biodiesel and diesel. ~ 41 mpg
1996 Mercury Villager gasser. ~ 20 mpg

The interesting thing about the window motors is that both terminals are connected to system voltage when the window switch is in the neutral position. Actuating the switch opens the connection to one of the terminals and closes a connection to ground, allowing current to flow and operate the motor. Actuating the switch to the opposite position connects the other terminal to ground, so the motor runs in the opposite direction.

When I bought my SD two of the four windows were not working. I first cleaned all the switches and all four then worked. This past winter my front passenger side stopped working.

I found there was power getting to the motor (meaning it wasn't the switch). I took the motor out and took the motor completely apart, cleaned it, and greased it. Then I put it back together. It now works better than the other three.