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  #1  
Old 07-02-2006, 09:23 AM
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E300D lower control arm replacement

Well I started yesterday on the lower control arms. The spring came out easily with the Klann compressor. The ball joint was tough the remove and I ended up cutting the nut off. The bad news is the control arm is rusty and crumbled somewhat while pressing its bushing out. I ordered two new ones. I guess this is from the salt corrosion in upstate NY. I will replace the ball joints and the sway bar links while I'm doing the job.
Otherwise, it has been medium level of difficulty to do.
Pictures attached show the first few steps.
Steve
Attached Thumbnails
E300D lower control arm replacement-img_0048.jpg   E300D lower control arm replacement-img_0050.jpg   E300D lower control arm replacement-img_0051.jpg   E300D lower control arm replacement-img_0047.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 07-06-2006, 03:24 PM
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My two new lower control arms arrived today. Both are correct and came fitted with new bushings. That means I've got a set of Lemfoerder bushings for sale now for 100!
The new control arms from Phil are excellent. They bolted right up with no problems.
The drivers side is done and now on to the passenger's side. I plan to get the car aligned after I'm done. The job is not that tough with the new control arms. I'm glad I replaced the rusty ones. More pictures to follow I hope.
Steve
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  #3  
Old 07-06-2006, 05:07 PM
F18 F18 is offline
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Hi Steve,
So the press you have that you mentioned on the previous post was adequate to remove the bearings on the old bushings. What was it....a 11 ton press?
Cheers,
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Daily Driver: 98 E300TD 199K
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Past Diesels: 84 300SD, 312K
87 300SDL, 251K
94 Chev. K-1500 6.5Ltr.TD, 373K
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  #4  
Old 07-06-2006, 08:31 PM
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My press was more than adequate, a 20 ton model.
Here's a few pictures. Job is done!
Photo 1 old and new arm
#2 Use of tie rod separator to pull off the sway bar link
#3 Use of a pipe to drive on the sway bar link.
#4 new control arm
#5 tightening up the new ball joint to the lower control arm. A 5mm allen wrench has to be cut short to do this task. That's what they make Craftsman tools for!
Steve
Attached Thumbnails
E300D lower control arm replacement-img_0057.jpg   E300D lower control arm replacement-img_0061.jpg   E300D lower control arm replacement-img_0062.jpg   E300D lower control arm replacement-img_0064.jpg   E300D lower control arm replacement-img_0065.jpg  

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  #5  
Old 07-06-2006, 08:32 PM
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More photos of the lower control arm installation
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E300D lower control arm replacement-img_0067.jpg  
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  #6  
Old 07-06-2006, 08:40 PM
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Spring compressor reinstalling the spring.
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E300D lower control arm replacement-img_0066.jpg  
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  #7  
Old 09-06-2009, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F18 View Post
Hi Steve,
So the press you have that you mentioned on the previous post was adequate to remove the bearings on the old bushings. What was it....a 11 ton press?
Cheers,
When I did mine last weekend the ball joints and bushings came out without a press. I did have the free rental tool from autozone to press the ball joints back in tho. the bushings were a little tougher to get in w/o a press. It helped to clean up the light rust so the bushing could seat better.
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  #8  
Old 08-27-2006, 01:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bodgit2 View Post
Well I started yesterday on the lower control arms. The spring came out easily with the Klann compressor. The ball joint was tough the remove and I ended up cutting the nut off. The bad news is the control arm is rusty and crumbled somewhat while pressing its bushing out. I ordered two new ones. I guess this is from the salt corrosion in upstate NY. I will replace the ball joints and the sway bar links while I'm doing the job.
Otherwise, it has been medium level of difficulty to do.
Pictures attached show the first few steps.
Steve
Where did you get the KLANN compressor? Is it an original KLANN or replica unit?
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  #9  
Old 08-27-2006, 12:22 PM
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I had a front end creak when slowly comming down off of speed bumps.

It disappeared when I replaced the sway bar links. I did also put a little silicone grease between the sway bar and main bushing at the same time so cant say for sure which operation made it stop.

The sway bar links made a big imporvement in handling as did new shocks a week later.
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  #10  
Old 03-31-2007, 02:56 PM
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Need help guys.... Currently working on the passenger front control arm. I am in the process of removing the spring. I have the spring compressed w/ a Klann type compressor. Prior to doing anything, I removed the uppers bolts holding the shock. When I lifted the car you could see that the shock up top had some play as it allowed the suspension to drop lower, say 1/2 inch. When I began to compress the spring that 1/2" gap bagan to close. I have the spring compressed where is it loose, but not enough to completely remove it. I don't to compress the spring anymore than need be. I removed the bolt at the bottom of the shock, the swaybar link holding it onto the control and no go. If I press down on the rotor assembly, it bounces fimrly, showing there is that available play but I don't know what else is holding it up and keep a springy tension. The lower control arm bolts are still in, haven't touched them...

Thoughts guys? I'd liek to have the spring out at least today.
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  #11  
Old 09-05-2009, 11:19 PM
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About to go through this job myself - does anyone have the torque specs for the various fasteners?

Bolts that go through the control arm bushings
Strut and sway bar mounting bolts
Ball joint bolts

Big thanks in advance if you have these numbers!!
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  #12  
Old 09-06-2009, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michakaveli View Post
Need help guys.... Currently working on the passenger front control arm. I am in the process of removing the spring. I have the spring compressed w/ a Klann type compressor. Prior to doing anything, I removed the uppers bolts holding the shock. When I lifted the car you could see that the shock up top had some play as it allowed the suspension to drop lower, say 1/2 inch. When I began to compress the spring that 1/2" gap bagan to close. I have the spring compressed where is it loose, but not enough to completely remove it. I don't to compress the spring anymore than need be. I removed the bolt at the bottom of the shock, the swaybar link holding it onto the control and no go. If I press down on the rotor assembly, it bounces fimrly, showing there is that available play but I don't know what else is holding it up and keep a springy tension. The lower control arm bolts are still in, haven't touched them...

Thoughts guys? I'd liek to have the spring out at least today.
I am not sure I understand what you are asking. What are trying to accomplish? The spring is held in the perch by a rubber spacer that could be holding the spring in place. On the W124 I had to compress the spring all the way down before I could remove it.
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