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  #16  
Old 07-13-2006, 01:01 PM
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couldn't agree more

Quote:
Originally Posted by andmoon
Clean to metal.
Weld on a little supprt.
Por 15.
Lots of jb weld (I JB everything
Drive on and check occasionally.
Whatever you can do now to close up the crack and prevent it from spreading as well as protecting from future rust, the safer you are and more you can prolong replacing the subframe, but don't let it go... that one hard dip or pothole could cause it to expand or crack all the way through leading to major damage.

good luck

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  #17  
Old 07-13-2006, 01:20 PM
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Brian...Yepper, I looked at the photo, I saw rust...rust I bet is worse on the other side that you can't see, where it looks like the salt would have a nice spot to collect...but maybe it has been protected by all that diff oil/sludge beauty mask.

Yepper, I think you are correct...do something! I don't like worrying, I like knowing. I would not want to find out I was wrong the hard way at 70 MPH and put a peak shaped pucker mark in my new seat cushion covers.

Howsomeever, I have been known to wear a belt and a pair of suspenders to keep my britches up....I would always prefere to error on the side of caution.
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  #18  
Old 07-13-2006, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mismost
Brian...Yepper, I looked at the photo, I saw rust...rust I bet is worse on the other side that you can't see, where it looks like the salt would have a nice spot to collect...but maybe it has been protected by all that diff oil/sludge beauty mask.
I have a POS Dodge van with stamped lower control arms on the front suspension. There is not one square inch of these arms that is still parent metal. The arms are rusted to the point where metal is flaking off of them.

This situation is common for a typical Dodge. But, you're not likely to see very many of them snap in half due to corrosion issues.

The corrosion on that M/B arm is just beginning...........going strictly by the photo........of course. The underside might tell a different tale.

The arms are designed to take significantly more load then they will ever encounter. We're not talking about a jet engine here.

I wouldn't be concerned with the integrity of that arm in any way.
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  #19  
Old 07-14-2006, 11:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d.delano
That diff is a piece of work! Hermetically sealed against rust, forever. What I don't understand is how could the diff not be leaking when the proof of the leak can be found all over the outside of it. Or perhaps he meant to say that it no longer leaks because the half-inch thick layer of goop has gotten to a point where no fluid can leak out anymore. I think it's safe to say that it has in fact leaked in the past since the proof is right there in front of you. I wonder if the diff oil has ever been changed. To change it however one has to be able to locate the drain and fill plugs without resorting to using an x-ray machine.
Apparantly there is a breather on the top of the diff, which can seep slightly ... over 220k miles that slight seepage builds up. I'd have to double-check my records, but I'm sure it's been changed in the past.

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