It's CRITICAL... how you set your transmission's vacuum system on your diesel MBZ... - Page 45 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Brian Carlton · #**661** 05-26-2009, 11:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RML

I believe "Banned" means what it says. I think our buddy Sam either went over a line too many times or once too far. If you look at the right side of the header you will see the infraction numbers.

Sam decided to deface every single one of his posts on this thread because he was annoyed with my moderation of the thread. I deleted one of his posts that was OT and abusive and he wasn't satisfied with that.

It took the Webmaster two hours to resurrect the thread from the backup software...........one post at a time. That's why every one of Sam's posts are edited by the Webmaster.

Accordingly, Sam is no longer welcome here.

mplafleur · #**662** 06-01-2009, 11:47 PM

It looks as if he had one infraction worth 5 points. Must have pissed off someone bad.

Anywho, I've read almost everything he's posted and he seems to be a knowledgeable friendly A1 kind of guy. I'd be happy to see him come back after his 6 months suspension is over.

Brian Carlton · #**663** 06-01-2009, 11:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mplafleur

Anywho, I've read almost everything he's posted and he seems to be a knowledgeable friendly A1 kind of guy.

Unfortunately, your conclusion is erroneous on all counts.

He will not be returning.

mplafleur · #**664** 06-02-2009, 07:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

Unfortunately, your conclusion is erroneous on all counts.

He will not be returning.

That's kind of rude and uncalled for. I find no basis for your conclusion.

Brian Carlton · #**665** 06-02-2009, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mplafleur

That's kind of rude and uncalled for. I find no basis for your conclusion.

What's uncalled for is an ongoing OT discussion on a technical thread regarding a banned member. If you have any additional burning desires to discuss Samuel Ross, please take it to PM.

tdelaurier · #**666** 07-18-2009, 03:06 PM

Brian and others

I've been reading this forum and this thread for a while and re-reading it.
I just wanted to pass on my success after reading this thread.

I've got a 83 300sd that I got for almost nothing - Im slowly turning this car into my daily driver.

I had slipping/flaring from 2-3 and 3-4 .... after following all the suggestions here I've fixed all my slipping and flaring.... it shifts like a brand new car...

I had one question ?? Have you noticed how much more firm the throttle pedal is after tightening the VCV on the IP??? Mine seemed sloppy before - now its tight. Which makes sense - since you are overcoming the internal flat spring of the VCV...

Thanks for all the info !!!

Brian Carlton · #**667** 07-19-2009, 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tdelaurier

I had one question ?? Have you noticed how much more firm the throttle pedal is after tightening the VCV on the IP??? Mine seemed sloppy before - now its tight. Which makes sense - since you are overcoming the internal flat spring of the VCV...

Thanks for all the info !!!

The internal spring inside the VCV is negligible in terms of overall friction in the throttle linkage. The pedal is never "sloppy" unless there are loose linkage components. What I find is the pedal gets "sticky"........cannot move it a small fraction.......it jumps. That's a sign of needed lubrication in the ball joints. This lubrication is necessary every oil change if you want the throttle to respond appropriately.

Additionally, removal of the 3-2 valves will allow the throttle to operate a bit easier........no friction from the cam to push the valves.

TOMCLARK · #**668** 09-15-2009, 09:32 PM

To all who have added to this thread over the years I would like to thank you.

I don't usually comment on threads except when necessary but By reading this thread the past couple of days I have been able to do miracles with my NTM 84 300sd turbo!

I purchased this car a month ago and have been looking to solve the PO problem that "the transmission is bad and they are way to much to replace". As I have glanced at the thread in the past I knew that all it needed was adjustment. so I paid the $700.00 for the 205,000 mile no rust car and brought it home. The PO was right it didn't shift right and was flaring so bad I wouldn't drive her.

I then started reading the thread from beginning to end. I put the knowledge I got here to use today to diagnose and repair the problem. After a couple of hours with the mytvac(SP) I was able to get the car shifting like a knife through butter!

This site has been an invaluable asset to me in repairing my 77 300D with my donor 84 230 EURO. I replaced the HVAC to manual, redid (with the floaty things) the seats and many other amazing (to me) things. It now resides as my daily driver.

Again this is through all of the knowledgeable people like Brian, dedicating there time and talent to help us keep our beloved BENZ running forever.

PS: I know that I will be following some other threads now that I have two big D's to keep running. Now on to the next problem the wipers don't work

to name but one on a long list LOL

The Gears · #**669** 09-21-2009, 01:34 PM

Dump the RESTRICTED ORIFICES idea and install a 1/4 " needle valve in place of the orifice. Minuscule adjustments can be made to attain smooth shifting.

mplafleur · #**670** 09-21-2009, 08:21 PM

I found I had a vacuum leak in the VCV. I found this by odd coincidence by troubleshooting an inconsistent center vent. It wouldn't open because the vacuum getting to the vacuum pod was an inch or two too low. It needed 6 inches to open and it was getting 5. The leak that caused the low vacuum to the climate control was the vacuum control valve on the the side of the IP.

Once fixed, the transmission shifted wonderfully, until the the head gasket blew a wek later.

RogerB34 · #**671** 02-21-2010, 01:03 AM

Brian - clarification pls.
". It'll be the Mityvac on one side, the transmission modulator on the opposite side and the VCV on the bull (via the damper). Pump up the mityvac and confirm the 12.5" at idle. It should hold vacuum reasonably well..........bleed down in 20 seconds or more."
Engine running at idle with the rod VCV to fuel injection pump connected?

Brian Carlton · #**672** 02-21-2010, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RogerB34

Brian - clarification pls.
". It'll be the Mityvac on one side, the transmission modulator on the opposite side and the VCV on the bull (via the damper). Pump up the mityvac and confirm the 12.5" at idle. It should hold vacuum reasonably well..........bleed down in 20 seconds or more."
Engine running at idle with the rod VCV to fuel injection pump connected?

The engine is not running. The Mityvac provides all the vacuum necessary for the test.

The linkage is connected normally per the FSM.

BTW, 12.5" isn't a magical figure. It can be less than this value if the shifts are too soft for your own requirements. The SD is currently at 8" and I still get no banging.

SteveR · #**673** 02-24-2010, 03:27 AM

RogerB34,
Brian is 100% correct about 12.5 NOT being gospel. I have just set up early two 1980(s) models, a 240D & a 300D, and found that 7.5-to-8.0" Hg. worked out best for me. Age and condition of your VCV could be a factor as could the internal condition of your tranny and the vac. modulator that sits on the tranny!?

For my adjustment, I have devised a way to make such VCV adjustments while the engine is running at idel. To help me do this I use a more accurate liquid-filled vacuum gauge that has 0.5" Hg. increments.

Once I made these and was happy with the results mainly for the up-shifts using such low idle vacuum setting, I have found that I can install and use a very small model airplane needle valve on the "T" coming off the main Vac.pmp-to-brake line.

Adjusting this tiny valve to tweak/adjust the vacuum going into the vacuum shifting system further now allows me to control the downshifts some. I think this is mainly the 4-to-3 downshift and to a lesser degree the 3-to2 down shifts. These earlier model MB(s) have very few compontents on their vac. control shifting systems so they have benefited from these needle valves. Later model W123(s) probably would not need such add-ons.

Roger - What model/Year is your car?

Brian - As a new member to this forum I have found this THREAD to be very helpful to me in refining my adjustment method. Is there any chance that Samuel M. Ross will ever be invited back to participate?

SteveR

Alastair · #**674** 02-24-2010, 03:47 PM

Ive been investigating my harsh shifts on my new Wagon over the last week or so...

My initial fault was the main vac source at the brake-booster-line. This has a white tagged side-barb, which according to earlier posts is for a 0.8mm orifice. It was blocked--well, nearly. Cleared it through with some 0.6mm Mig wire, and forced some WD40 through it for good measure...

I think my VCV is not operating correctly...

I have 11 ins Hg at the outlet to the trans, but the VCV is acting more like a switch than proportional. It will go from 11" to approx 7" from Idle to full WOT.--The change in Vac. happens in a small range of VCV shaft-movement.

--Adjusting it makes no difference, apart from where in the throttle arm range the vac. change takes place...

--Is this the usual 'mode-of-failure' for a VCV...?

BTW, Been looking for a MityVac here in UK--I know they are available, Somewhere....

Had some luck finding summit similar made by Sealy..

But, they want near 300 dollars for it...

How much are you guys finding MityVac in the 'States for...?

compress ignite · #**675** 02-25-2010, 02:49 AM

About $28.00 USD