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  #61  
Old 07-25-2006, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Endust
Seizing an engine requires heat. At starter speeds there isn’t anywhere near enough heat. How did you eliminate the valve train? Since the starter wasn’t the cause I think you have valve interference. What process did you use to eliminate that as a possibility?
I used a wrench on the bolt that holds the cam sprocket on and rocked it back and forth. By doing this I was able to move the cam a degree or two and could see the valves that are open move slightly. If they were interfering I believe I should only move the cam to close the valves, but could not turn it the other way to open them. I would line to confirm this by using a dowel to check the positions of the pistons, but I believe that will require the removal of the prechamber, which I do not have to tool to do.

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine
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  #62  
Old 07-25-2006, 05:15 PM
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Out of curiosity...when the lower pan is removed can you get a good look at the crank sprocket to make sure the chain is not wrapped around it? I ask this, because if it were, it may have taken up all of the slack, and the chain might still look to be tensioned properly.

The other thing I am wondering is if the IP could be bound up...the chain also passes by it on the way to the bottom sprocket.

I would urge you to keep exploring these external issues until you find it. I'm thinking it must be external to the engine (not likely an engine would fail catastrophically and seize at starting speed).

Good luck.
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  #63  
Old 07-25-2006, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by franklyspeaking
Out of curiosity...when the lower pan is removed can you get a good look at the crank sprocket to make sure the chain is not wrapped around it? I ask this, because if it were, it may have taken up all of the slack, and the chain might still look to be tensioned properly.

The other thing I am wondering is if the IP could be bound up...the chain also passes by it on the way to the bottom sprocket.
Yes, I got a good look at the sprocket and the chain was on it properly. I loosened the Injection pump, but could not get it to pull free. It was rotating freely however, so I tried turning the engine, but it was still frozen. If it was the IP that was stuck I think it should have twisted when I was trying to turn the engine. How is the IP removed? I can pull it all the way out of the car and try again.

I have found another 240 engine close to here for $100 being sold by a person that I have had good service from in the past. I would still like to put a 617 turbo in it though...
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine
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  #64  
Old 07-25-2006, 06:13 PM
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If it rotates, I doubt it is the culprit. It comes off with about 3 bolts to the engine and one at the rear (which is nearly impossible to get on and off). The lock up must be something inside the bellhousing...this is really puzzling???
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  #65  
Old 07-25-2006, 08:59 PM
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It's got me stumped. I forgot to mention that somebody had installed a "bypass oil filter" on this car that has it's input spliced into an oil cooler line and it's exit fitted to a nipple over the cam chain. Maybe that had a hand in the failure?
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine
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  #66  
Old 07-26-2006, 12:55 AM
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I just decided to give it a yank with a breaker bar. I tried turning it backward and got excited because it seemed to be turning....turns out the crank pulley nut was just coming off.
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine
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  #67  
Old 07-27-2006, 12:40 AM
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I just had an idea. I was looking down the cam chain for a old wrench somebody dropped down there in the past and noticed that when I rock the cam chain using the cam sprocket nut the vacuum pump sprocket does not turn. Could the vacuum pump have seized? Can the vacuum pump be removed with the engine and cam chain in place? Thank you. –Bryan
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine
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  #68  
Old 07-27-2006, 09:45 AM
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Pull the vacuum pump then you can get to the timing device. Also I would pull that cap (its where a distributor would be in a gasser) and look at the intermediate shaft to see if it turns. It turns the oil pump and IP. Lots of things in back of the vacuum pump. Anyway the timing chain goes around the timing device so that seems like a good place to start.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
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  #69  
Old 07-27-2006, 09:48 AM
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The vacccum pump is activated by surface drive ramps on the timing wheel I believe. It can be removed with no detrimental effect. Your slight pump movement could have been the centrifical advance in the timing wheel moving under pressure. I guess in theory if the pump disintregated internally a piece might be jamming the wheel. Check the archives under vaccum pump as there should be pictorials. Kind of a long shot but anything is possible.
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  #70  
Old 07-27-2006, 01:21 PM
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Guess I will give it a try. I gotta figure out something to do with this car soon though. Let this be a lesson...don't buy a non-running car on vacation...no matter how good the deal is.
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine
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  #71  
Old 07-27-2006, 03:11 PM
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You'l sort it out, When pulling the vacuum pump be careful, theres an allen thats easy to strip down toward the bottom, hard to get a square shot at it if your using a 3/8 drive allen wrench, use a 90 degree wrench on that one. When you get in there you'll be able to see the timing chain on the timing device, should be able to determine something then. Least its cooler, over on this side of the mountains anyway.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #72  
Old 07-27-2006, 11:45 PM
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I'll keep that in mind. I had to put the project on hold for a week or so and leave town. The car is actually at family's house in Vancouver WA, and I had to come back home to Pullman. I'll have another go at it in a few days. I'm not too hopeful that I will find the problem, but pulling the vacuum pump is worth a shot. Now I just have to figure out which car to sell. I have too many cars.
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine
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  #73  
Old 08-07-2006, 12:37 AM
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Well I think I am going to delcare this engine legally dead. I tried pouring oil in each cylinder to free it up. 3 of them filled up fine but the #4 cyl rings just let the oil flow past. I found a 300 turbo engine to look at tomorrow.
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine
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  #74  
Old 09-02-2006, 11:32 PM
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Well while putting in the new turbo engine I discovered why the old engine would not run before it seized... the fuel line had a pin hole in it.

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine
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