1982 300D Turbo questions and comments

[resago]

I am the pround new owner of a 1982 300D-Turbo.
PERFECT BLUE DASH!!!
Interior is in the Very Good category.

I notice my headlights are different from the norm?

My trans shifts hard, but I think it is because the P.O. removed the vac line to it

Am I mistaked, or do my door locks work off of Vaccum, I have vac lines running under my front mat going rearward.

The car doesn't have EGR - at all

Check out the attachments.

Look at my clean intake!!
"who wants to touch me.... I SAID WHO WANTS TO F***ING TOUCH ME!" - Cartman


I just need to plumb in the crankcase venting. I was suprised at how much the engine likes negative crankcase pressure

[greasybenz]

Ok to answer your questions.

The headlamps are different because they are euro spec and they offer better light output so id keep them if i were you!

If its the same as the SD the vacuum pump for the doorlocks is located in the spare wheel well in the trunk.

And your intake looks nice!! but some say it is bad, i dont know i was planning to do something similar to the SD with a fram paper filer but never got around to it.

Originally Posted by greasybenz

If its the same as the SD the vacuum pump for the doorlocks is located in the spare wheel well in the trunk.

It's not the same, there is a vacuum tank in the trunk (under the rear deck), but no pump.

[resago]

I still have the original air cleaner. I am going to remove the oil can and mount it on the wheel hub and use high temp tube to run from the vent to the oil can to a nipple I have yet to plumb into the intake tube.

Why bad? its an air filter.

[85chedeng300D]

you know why the MB diesel cars lasted 20+ or more years? its because of the stock air filter that the "over-engineering" Germans installed. they installed an air filter that will do its job and filter the air that the engine will suck in. the reason why aftermarket performance filter is not good for our diesel engine is:
1. if you notice, the high air flow through these filters, just like what you have, higher air flow means dirty air. which is almost unrestricted air flow, means, unfiltered air flow. its is not really the filter element that is filtering but the oil in the filter. therefore it is more effective when the filter is already full of dust and dirt to properly filter the air.

2. those type of filters are designed for gas engines and not for diesel engines like we have.

if you're lucky, you haven't damaged your engine cylinder walls yet.
i didn't mean to scare you but its just a warning.
so, if i were you and you want to keep your car to earn more miles, i'd put the stock air filtration system back.

[resago]

not for the sake of argument, but I would think a filter with more surface area can flow more and filter the same.

I might try to cal K&N and ask about airflow and filtration about the 2 models.
They should be able to answer the important questions.

can you explain the difference of air requirements between a gas engine and a diesel?

Originally Posted by resago

My trans shifts hard, but I think it is because the P.O. removed the vac line to it

That would make the transmission shift very hard.

Originally Posted by resago

Am I mistaked, or do my door locks work off of Vaccum, I have vac lines running under my front mat going rearward.

Yes the door locks are powered by vacuum, the yellow lines are associated with the door lock system.

Originally Posted by resago

The car doesn't have EGR - at all

Check out the attachments.

Look at my clean intake!!

I just need to plumb in the crankcase venting. I was suprised at how much the engine likes negative crankcase pressure

Where does that crankcase vent go now? Where are you planning on routing it? You may want to start looking for a stock air cleaner with an oil seperator.

[scottg]

I love the 300sd. I started reading these post and decided I wanted one but wish I would have found an interior like yours! My carpet looks pretty good but the seats look bad and the drivers seat needs to be replaced.

It has about 250K, the old paint seems to respond pretty good to wax, the car starts and turns off every time you turn the key. The body is in decent shape with only a couple of small dings, a fairly deep quarter size dent but no real body problems or rust anywhere I could see (mid south)

On the bad side, It needs the rear window glass replaced (expensive), the drivers door makes a loud snap every time you shut it and it appears something is broken by the hinge, the a/c does not work, the transmission slips and does not handle hills very well.

The driver window and sunroof work fine but the other three windows do not move, the dash has a couple of long cracks. The instament panel works but does not light up, a few the trim pieces are broken and the wood is broken/missing in a couple of areas.

The brakes sometimes work good and sometimes are very soft and squeek and the car always runs loud when idleing.

It only cost a 1,000.00 but by the time I get the car looking and running good I may have been better off finding one in top condition because I am no mechanic past changing oil etc.

It's fun to drive on the hwy and preforms well, looks pretty good for an old car and I figure if it cost too much to fix up I can sell it for what I paid for it and start over.

[resago]

yeah, I'm really pleased with my purchase, I paid $1500 and then $268 to have it transported.

my drivers seat cushion sags toward the door - was wondering if this is an easy fix?

I need to get some adhesive to keep my console trim from falling off, and I noticed yesterday that my dash indeed has a cap on it. I'm not sure of the original dash's condition underneath. all depend on when and why the dash cap was installed.

I plumbed the crank case vent back into the intake last night.
really helped with the oil blowby. appearantly, low or neg. crank case pressure is very important on these 200k+ engines!

I'll take another pic soon.

oh, the weight of the filter is easily more than the stock filter.

for any interested I got all the parts at autozone for around $80.
I am not contending it is BETTER, only nicer looking, and less greasy.

[redassag00]

Pool noodle fix.

Do a search.

[resago]

found it.

also read deiselgiants article.

found another wierd thing.

the transmission switch on top on the valve cover does not have ANY lines going to it. This must be where my trans vacuum line is supposed to go.

also, on the throttle sensor valuum thingy on the IP, the side port is just blocked off.

Attached are pics of the two vacuum things

and how my intake turned out.

Originally Posted by resago

I plumbed the crank case vent back into the intake last night.
really helped with the oil blowby. appearantly, low or neg. crank case pressure is very important on these 200k+ engines!

Check out this thread for vacuum diagrams:

Vacuum Diagrams

BTW, it looks like you have the vent connected directly to the air inlet without an oil separator, not a good plan because you will not recover any of your blow-by oil. Let us know how much oil your using. Also, you have very little vacuum in the intake of a diesel, your crankcase is running at about atmospheric pressure (as it should). You really need to lose that silly air filter and put the stock unit (with the oil separator) back on.

[resago]

those diagrams will definately help, thanks.

um, if the crank case pressure was at 1 Atm, nothing would be coming out, yeah?

mine happens to chug like a locomotive, and smokes if not connected like I have it now. My setup provides better evacuation than the stock. based on smoke output at the tailpipe.

I am recovering what splashes up, when enough oil accumulates, it drains back into the vent.

I'm not putting the old oily POS back on, its for sale if anyone is interested.