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My Tail Lights Have Been Glued On!!!
Ok, now I am really p!ssed. I have a good reason to believe that the tail light seals are to blame for the moisture and occasional water in my trunk. So I bought the seals, went to take my left tail light out only to find out that whoever last replaced the seal glued it on!!!
I managed to pry the tail light out and remove it without breaking it or damaging the surrounding paintwork, but now I am scratching my head... The glue/sealant that was used is pretty old but it's still elastic, sort of like silicone, and there is a LOT of it on there. The previous installer glued the seal to the tail light AND to the body of the car, so I have double trouble to deal with in removing it. I managed to get "most" of it off the metal edge of the body, just with gentle prying using a flat screwdriver and my nails, but there are a lot of small pieces still on the body. The tail light itself is even worse in that respect. It has a fairly deep channel where the seal goes, and it's hard to remove the residual glue out of that channel. I need some advice on how to deal with this problem, folks. For now, I reinstalled the tail light with the new seal, but I am not sure how well it will seal with all those glue debris left on there. - is there any solvent I could use to help remove the glue without dissolving the paint? (alcohol? some primer?) - is there some tool or fabric that someone could recommend for getting the residual glue out? Any help appreciated.
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84 300SD - bought in April '06 with 237,000 mi |
#2
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Sounds like a job for a Dremel with a small sanding disc attachment.
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#3
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I thought about that but wondered if that will completely ruin the paintwork on the body. perhaps some kind of a buffing cloth or a soft brush?
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84 300SD - bought in April '06 with 237,000 mi |
#4
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Quote:
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#5
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ill have to check my seal out too since water leaks in on my right side tail light assembly..
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#6
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maybe that Goo Gone stuff and a small razor? Thats what i did on my windows to remove a sticker...i have no idea how it would affect the paint thou.
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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out. Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability! (4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!) 82 300SD 145k 89 420SEL 210k 89 560SEL 118k 90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010 90 560SEL 154k 91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k 93 190E 3.0 235k 93 300E 195k |
#7
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That Goo b Gone stuff DESTROYS paint!!!!!
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RIP: 80 300SD RIP: 79 450SEL 2002 E430 4matic (212,000km) 2002 ML500 'sport' ![]() ____________________________ FACEBOOK: PANZER450 |
#8
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Quote:
thanks
__________________
Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out. Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability! (4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!) 82 300SD 145k 89 420SEL 210k 89 560SEL 118k 90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010 90 560SEL 154k 91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k 93 190E 3.0 235k 93 300E 195k |
#9
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I thought about using acetone but since it's famous as a nailpolish remover, I was afraid it might dissolve paint, but I am not sure. I do know that it will harm plastic, as Brian mentioned... I might try acetone on an inconspicuous area that is definitely hidden from view and see what result I get.
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84 300SD - bought in April '06 with 237,000 mi |
#10
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Most solvents will harm paint eventually. Your idea to try solvents somewhere inconspicuous is good. Alcohol is probably least damaging. Acetone and the various ketones, etc., are worse. If you pick the right one, they will also harm rubber and plastic.
![]() While you have the taillight lenses out of the car, you might want to check them for leaks. I say this because my 123 car came to me with a couple of leaks where the amber plastic met the red plastic, etc., in the lens. In one place, it looked like the lens had been 'tapped' in a parking lot just enough to produce a crack. It wasn't even wide enough to get a knife blade into but water could get in. I smeared -- wait for it! -- silicone seal into the crack and stopped the leak. With the lenses off the car, you can simply fill them with water and watch to see if any drips out. Since I could not get my lenses out (glued in like yours?), I gently sprayed water onto the outside of my lenses and watched inside the trunk. Jeremy
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![]() "Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#11
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It's not fun, but I've had good luck removing silicone from painted surfaces (like when I removed the old body kit from one of the w201's and it had been glued on with silicone!) just using the friction from my fingers. See if rubbing your fingers on the edge with some pressure doesn't take most of it off.
You can also try a blunt plastic scraper...I would try to knock off any sharp edges on the scraper with some 200 grit sandpaper first, though. Sometimes they have casting ridges that are sharp/strong enough to scratch paint. Good luck...I never realized how much prior owners/mechanics had ruined my cars until I started doing all of my own repair work... ![]()
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1973 280 - Current Project Car 1979 240d - 100% Stock 1982 380sl - 100% Stock 1985 190e 2.3 - Heavily Modified |
#12
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Thank you for the advices - they are all good ones.
I was trying to figure out what this glue/sealant reminds me of, and I believe there's a good chance that it is "contact cement." It's elastic and kind of yellowish. The only silicone that I've seen was either clear or black... I remember using some contact cement when I was reassembling the driver door and needed to re-attach the plastic "moisture barrier" - that thin sheet of polyethylene that gets glued to the body of the door. I read online that acetone should be able to dissolve contact cement, depending how old it is. But again, I don't want to strip the paint and have rust issues later. I using just what I had on me - a screwdriver blade and my fingers - I was able to get *most* of the bulk of it yesterday. I clean up the small debris, I was thinking about using maybe a rubbery cloth or a rubbery brush - something that would have more friction against the affected area than my fingers. The Mercedes parts guy at the dealership earlier was telling me that in order to get off silicone sealant off the body, he'd probably recommend using a tool they use when they buff the car's paint with wax - like a rotary tool, like a drill of dremel with a buffing attachment on it. He said it would probably ruin the attachment, but it should be fairly effective. The parts guy also told me that generally it's a bad idea to use silicone or other sealants on Mercedes seals or any rubber seals, unless there's a mention of it in the FSM. He said that silicone eventually damages the paintwork AND damages the seal itself, so if you silicone it, it will be guaranteed to need replacement sooner than it's due. I wasn't aware that silicone sealant damages rubber, but it's an interesting piece of info...
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84 300SD - bought in April '06 with 237,000 mi |
#13
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If it is silicon then brake clean will take it off. Brake clean on a rag and rub, kind of like using your finger, only a lot quicker. I do not know if it will harm the paint, try a small hidden spot.
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#14
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try some mineral spirits, I don't think it will hurt the paint.
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#15
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Love PO hack jobs, cheap SOB's didn't want to do it right and replace the gaskets.
![]() Can you pry them off enough to get a razor blade in there? Use some masking tape to protect the paint from getting scratched.
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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
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