My sister has a 1979 240D that got low on oil over time.

She was driving it to San Fran and the valves started clicking so she immediately pulled over (go figure). Checked the dipstick and then proceeded to beat her fiance as he was the one that supposedly checked the oil before they left, not a drop on the stick. It took 4 qt's to get it back to the right level. They then drove the rod knocker home (didn't lose any oil on the way home) and took it to a local shop.

The shop she took it to verified that it does have a rod knocking and thinks that a new engine is the answer. I called and talked to the shop to see if anything else was wrong. The shop says that as far as they can tell the only problem is the rod knock. Why replace an engine because of a rod knock? They want $3500 to fix a $2500 car.

So my question is, can I jack the engine up, pull the pan from below, and spoon in new bearings? I'm hoping that just the bearings need to be replaced, not the crank.

Any other comments and suggestions are welcome.

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1987 300SDL 167k
1992 Volvo 740 140k
1990 Volvo 740 250k
1989 Volvo 240 269k

Anyone want to trade an old Volvo for an '87 300sdl?

I dont believe the crossmember will allow you the room to pull the upper pan to do the work your talking about. Even if you could, I wouldn't waste the cash. If its eaten 1 bearing bad enough to knock, the others can't be that far behind and the top end was prolly starved real good. Junk yard motor would be the direction I would want to go. I know if the engine in my 240 went, it would become an instant parts car. Motors for these are just too expensive rebuilt or new.

Meanwhile replacement engine might not be easy to find, low mileage 240D engines are becoming uncommon. Also the '79 has different components from '80/81+ models, different throttle linkage, manifolds, vacuum lines and electrics. I'd start searching for good used longblock immediately and dont pull the existing engine until you've got a replacement right next to it.

Is there some reason I can't pull the engine and rebuild it? Or at least pull the engine and determine what it needs? Maybe inspect the bores/pistons, connecting rod bearings, crank journals, cam lobes, valves, etc.. Or is the general assumption that being 4qt's low is reason enough to replace the engine due to all the damage?

__________________
1987 300SDL 167k
1992 Volvo 740 140k
1990 Volvo 740 250k
1989 Volvo 240 269k

Anyone want to trade an old Volvo for an '87 300sdl?

You could pull it and rebuild it. However, I highly doubt you ahve the tools or specs for checking all the bearings and such that would have been damaged by oil starving it. If you pull the motor and find the rod bearing and replace that bearin gonly it may or may not fix it. It could last 1 year or a day before something else starts to let go. Its really up to you and skills/tools/budget. If its a car you plan on keeping for a long time and you can afford it, by all means take it out and have it rebuilt. If this is a beater car or a daily driver I would try to find a decent engine and just drop it in. There are a few 240's for sale on Ebay for cheap right now that could be good parts cars. One with a blown trans that was quite low in the bidding.

New,

I don't know about if U can remove the oil pan in the car on a 240D. But I do know I removed one from a 190D even though the manual said the engine had to be removed. I even removed the crankshaft with out removing the engine.

U won't know until U try. U will have to loosen the engine mounts and jack up the engine as high as possible and turn the crankshaft so the oil pan clears the rod journals.

If the crankshaft is not scored, new rod and main bearings should fix it.

P E H