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  #16  
Old 08-03-2006, 06:46 PM
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I change the oil without jacking it up. I'm thinking you can change the lower oil pan without jacking it up.

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  #17  
Old 08-03-2006, 06:49 PM
Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry edwards
I change the oil without jacking it up. I'm thinking you can change the lower oil pan without jacking it up.
I'm sure it's possible, but it would be a whole lot easier on a couple of jack stands or ramps.
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  #18  
Old 08-03-2006, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto
I thought they weren't allowed to add oil during a race.

Sixto
I believe the only thing they aren't allowed to do is change drivetrain components - engine, transmission, or rear end. Anything else is permissable (not 100% sure about the rear end though). Fluids are allowed, it's just that normally, the 16 quarts of oil they hold is enough.

I believe that was at Pocono 2-3 years ago, btw.
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  #19  
Old 08-03-2006, 09:23 PM
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Skid plate

Quote:
Originally Posted by rrgrassi
.... I wonder, can you make, or have made a metal skid plate to bolt underneath like most 4x4's have? ....
The W123 skid plate is Mercedes part # 123 520 03 42. Phil has them for $142 and free shipping. Mine gets installed this weekend.

Jeremy
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  #20  
Old 08-03-2006, 09:43 PM
Craig
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BTW, how did you manage to bottom out a W123? They have huge ground clearance under the pan.
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  #21  
Old 08-03-2006, 10:16 PM
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85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig
BTW, how did you manage to bottom out a W123? They have huge ground clearance under the pan.
Mines a Euro? Bit different? Awefully squat down front compared to my 300TD? I was following a brinks truck and I swore it bottomed out too. The hole was circular, not a gash, about nickel sized. I guess thats what I get for drivinng a weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee bit to fast (wee is the sound *I* make) on atlanta roads.

Thanks for all the help guys. It was easy as pie. Left work at 5:45, time to go to autozone and get 5mm socket, go home change, go to parts car pull pan (which was dented but serviceable), go back to work, pull old pan and install new one was around 3.5 hours. Got home around 9:45 including trip back to work to get something out of car. Not exactly fast but the procedure itself was pretty quick. I still need to get a new pan, the one I pulled wasnt nearly as nice as the one in dmorrisons links. I have antoher oil leak or two I need to fix and then I will clean the engine real well. The wierd thing about this sedan, cosmetically its a POS, but I SWEAR mechanically it is pristine. Very little blow by, handling is super tight, stops on a dime, and accel is pretty fantastic to 100mph. The only minor issue is going into second gear (4spd man). As soon as it can get a paint job I am joing to really put some elbow grease into it and get it all fixed up.
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  #22  
Old 08-03-2006, 10:20 PM
Craig
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Good to hear you got it fixed. Maybe yours is lower in the front than mine.
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  #23  
Old 08-03-2006, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig
Good to hear you got it fixed. Maybe yours is lower in the front than mine.
PO had the camber WAAAAAY out. Maybe that accounts for some of it? Sure makes lane changes suprisingly (to much sometimes) quick.
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  #24  
Old 08-03-2006, 10:24 PM
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give a little pause in neutral before going into second and maybe use a little heavier oil in the tranny.

tom w
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  #25  
Old 08-03-2006, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth
give a little pause in neutral before going into second and maybe use a little heavier oil in the tranny.

tom w
Little pauses suck! I am going to try the heavier oil and if that doesnt work I will pull another 4 spd from pull a part. But I'm guessing this is a fairly common issue as my buddies 240d does the same? Is there a FSM for the transmission?
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  #26  
Old 08-03-2006, 10:47 PM
John Holmes III
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry edwards
I change the oil without jacking it up. I'm thinking you can change the lower oil pan without jacking it up.
If you have a pit under the car.
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  #27  
Old 08-03-2006, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig
BTW, how did you manage to bottom out a W123? They have huge ground clearance under the pan.
Well, I don't really think of there being huge ground clearance under my oil pan. matter of fact, seems like there are new scratches on it every time I'm under there. Which is weird btw, as I never bottom out, or even come close.
I also had front end rebuilt along with new shocks, and it sits up ridiculously high, and pan still is an inviting target....
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  #28  
Old 08-03-2006, 10:57 PM
Craig
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They always seem high to me, I can easily change the oil without lifting the car. Also, the pan is pretty much in line with the front wheels, so you would have to straddle something pretty big to smack it. AFIAK, I've never scraped mine on anything.
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  #29  
Old 08-03-2006, 11:15 PM
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Glad to hear your engine is ok. Years ago the same thing happened to my Beemer and Marine-Tex actually worked fine untill I could afford a new expensive aluminum pan. At 17 there were other many other things to spend money on;luckily the Benz pans are cheap in comparison and probably more durable. Most interestingly, I had a 1977 240D with manual windows,sunroof,& 4 speed.This car had a stock bolt on anti-skid plate.I would love to get one for my current 123 for any possible off-roading. Even though it weighed a ton it was worth the protection.Maybe it was a euro option only? Anyone know where to get one?
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  #30  
Old 08-03-2006, 11:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig
Also, the pan is pretty much in line with the front wheels, so you would have to straddle something pretty big to smack it.
I know. That is what is weird about the new scratches.....

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'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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