W123. Adjusting Valves the easy way. Advise from a Mercedes master to an apprentice - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Wiz3D · #31 09-03-2006, 12:57 PM

nice one !!

This is at best a no fun job when by the book and hard on the back ... this method makes good sense .... will be usin' soon. For getting into those tight spaces, I use an old Indestro 9/16 tappet wrench which is very thin and has oddly angled heads at both ends .... works great for the nasty approachs to some of those adjusting nuts.

dmorrison · #32 09-03-2006, 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wiz3D

nice one !!

This is at best a no fun job when by the book and hard on the back ... this method makes good sense .... will be usin' soon. For getting into those tight spaces, I use an old Indestro 9/16 tappet wrench which is very thin and has oddly angled heads at both ends .... works great for the nasty approachs to some of those adjusting nuts.

"Getting to the tight places", I was talking about the large Mercedes-Benz spring retainer wrench to prevent the plate from rotating. I have the Mercedes wrench set. The large wrench has to be used or the nuts will not adjust. I'm sure that if you remove all the injector lines, using the large wrench would be easier.

http://www.etoolcart.com/browseproducts/Mercedes-Benz-Spring-Retainer-Wrench-H2769-3.html

I'm sure this job would be easier if they had bent the large wrench just as they did with the adjusting wrenches.

Dave

phasmatisnox · #33 09-03-2006, 03:10 PM

Could an enterprising young individual make a bent wrench out of a normal wrench with a blowtorch, welding gloves, and a vise? The bent wrench seems overly expensive.

Brian Carlton · #34 09-03-2006, 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phasmatisnox

Could an enterprising young individual make a bent wrench out of a normal wrench with a blowtorch, welding gloves, and a vise? The bent wrench seems overly expensive.

Of course. You can do it without welding gloves.......and without the vice.......if you're careful........

samiam4 · #35 09-03-2006, 04:39 PM

I'm suprised anyone finds this new!!

OM617's are quite forgiving. You'll learn better technic on 911 engines which tend to be picky.

I do use the 3rd wrench too at times. Big thing is the tension/compression between the locknut/and adjuster. If you loosen too much, it goes slack and your adjustment will be off.

Glad to see someone else using it! And you live close Dave!! Hey, I was at Little John's yesterday and there looked to be a good condition 617.951 engine for acquasition. I bet for a day of sweet equity and $75-150 it could be yours- if someone needs one in the DFW.

Michael

dmorrison · #36 09-26-2006, 02:42 PM

One note to add. After the valve adjustment I noticed that the tranny was shifting harder over time. Figured I would have to adjust the tranny. Checked all the vacuum lines and after re seating them all. The tranny started to shift normally. So check the vacuum lines after the valve cover is reinstalled.

Dave

riethoven · #37 09-26-2006, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmorrison

One note to add. After the valve adjustment I noticed that the tranny was shifting harder over time. Figured I would have to adjust the tranny. Checked all the vacuum lines and after re seating them all. The tranny started to shift normally. So check the vacuum lines after the valve cover is reinstalled.

Dave

Some day I will go through all of my vacuum lines, but until then, I have experienced the same thing when working under the hood. I will move the vacuum lines around and loosen up a connection and the door locks will lose vacuum quickly or the tranny shifts hard etc.

I did my first 617 valve adjustment the other day. I have the correct wrenches and did a bunch of cleaning at the same time and it still only took about an hour. I will try your method next time and see if I can shave a few minutes off.

jbaj007 · #38 06-15-2007, 09:44 PM

Quote:

He uses only 2 of the adjustment wrenches. One of the bent units and the large base unit.
Position the cam so that it is 180 degrees from the valve as shown in the Service Manual. Place the large base unit on the valve spring keeper washer as you would normally use the tool. Then feel the gap with the feeler gauge.

If the gap is to tight, then use the bent wrench on the LOWER nut and rotate it COUNTER CLOCKWISE ( looking from above) , do not loosen the 2 nuts.

If the gap is to loose then use the bent wrench on the UPPER nut and rotate it CLOCKWISE ( looking from above), do not loosen the 2 nuts.

It may be a firm rotation but it will rotate.

It's like this hugh light came on. I could not believe how easy it was using his method.

Dave,
I just tried this for the "finesse" part at the end of valve adjustment, and found it very helpful.... BUT, I did it the OPPOSITE way... clockwise on UPPER nut to LOOSEN gap; counterclockwise on LOWER nut to TIGHTEN the clearance (gap). Am I confused on what was written?

P.E.Haiges · #39 06-16-2007, 02:55 AM

To all,

The most important part of the valve adjust job is to get the lock nut tight enough so the nuts never come loose and let the valve drop into the cylinder.

I'd be worried that the adjusting and locking nuts would not be tight enough by using the procedure described unless they were tightened using a wrench on each nut.

P E H

#40 06-16-2007, 03:01 AM

I'm more worried about torquing a nut set too tight and snapping off the tip of a valve.

P.E.Haiges · #41 06-16-2007, 10:09 AM

Forced,

Perhaps U have not had a valve go into a cylinder like I have. It comes out thru the oil pan along with the piston and rod.

PS: I didn't do the valve adjust job.

P E H

PerkHouse · #42 06-17-2007, 09:42 AM

Has anybody else noticed that the spec of .10 mm (.004") is for 20*C? How many people are adjusting their valves at 68*F? As the temperature increases, the gap is also supposed to increase. According to the FSM, the gap should be .15 mm (.006") at as little as 113*F.

So my point is... if you're at .12 mm at 85*F, you're pretty close. I just wouldn't let it go at less than .10 unless it's too chilly to be under the hood anyway.

Fwiw... the FSM also says, "0.05 mm higher during lasting outside temperatures below -20*C." Is there anybody on the list from northern Nunavut who can share???

mking · #43 06-17-2007, 11:24 PM

I tried this "new" technique today. Worked good for me.

Shorebilly · #44 06-18-2007, 07:06 AM

I realize that the valve tappet adjusters are of a relatively hard steel, but I don't like to put undue force on anything......

It seems to me, that over time and several adjustments, the use of this method will at minimum cause unnecessary wear on the threads.....and at worst will break the valve adjuster.......

I will continue to use the tried and true method of adjusting valve lash.....loosen the lock nut, move the adjustment, and tighten the lock nut....this method is not just MB specific, it is the way that I learned to adjust valves on my old Chevy's and Ford's back in the '60's......damn, that comment makes me sound old.....

SB

Shorebilly · #45 06-18-2007, 07:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phasmatisnox

Could an enterprising young individual make a bent wrench out of a normal wrench with a blowtorch, welding gloves, and a vise? The bent wrench seems overly expensive.

I have a drawer in my toolbox that contains my "custom bent" wrench collection......that's why they make Craftsman tools.....I would never bend a Snap-On, SK, or MAC tool......but if you think that any nut or bolt could be addressed more easily if there was a slightly different angle on the wrench.....bend them to make your job easier.....

SB

As was mentioned earlier.....the thickness if the wrench is an issue with the valve adjusters.....when you grind the wrenches to thin them.....don't grind them so hard or long that you "blue" the steel.....this will soften the steel and allow the wrench to flex or open up during use.....and then you wind up with rounded off adjustment nuts.....grind a little, dip the wrench into cool water, grind a bit more.....repeat until you have removed sufficient material......