SHORT VERSION:
If the only problem with my "ignition lock assembly" is a leak in its vacuum mechanisms, can I buy just the piece of the assembly that I need, or do I have to buy the whole "ignition lock assembly" ($160 on ***********************)?

LONG VERSION:
After many attempts to diagnose my vacuum problems, I was determined that this was the evening I would find the leak(s). Armed with some new information (found on this site) and a trusty vacuum gage, I spent a good hour going through my car and searching to find the leaks. I'm 99% sure the 3/2 valve was the culprit messing up my transmission and turbo, and I was another 99% sure that a leak in the ignition switch mechanism was the culprit keeping my ACC vents and door locks from pulling the vacuum they needed. That brings me to my point. Do I have to spend around $160 to get the whole "Ignition Lock Assembly" from a place like autopartswarehouse or can I just get the vacuum parts of this "assembly". It looks like the place where the vacuum lines enter/exit can be screwed off, but I can't find just that part on any of the major websites, nor do I really know what that part of the assembly would be called.

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Gig 'em

'83 300D Turbodiesel
'02 Gary Fisher: Big Sur

i believe you can get just the vacuum part ..

since my whole lock assembly is fubar'd i attached the 2 vacuum lines going to the shutoff valve together with a 'T' fitting .. so now i shut the engine off with my thumb.

this is the part from the ignition switch assembly

Attached Thumbnails

 

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1984 300D Turbo - 231k....totalled 11/30/07 RIP

but.. if you can get the old part off you could test if it will hold vacuum. then the problem could be in the connecter line to the hard lines that is leaking, which imo is more likely the case.

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1984 300D Turbo - 231k....totalled 11/30/07 RIP

I got just the vacuum valve for the ignition lock assembly from my MB dealer for $30 because my engine won't shutoff by the "ignition" switch. I have just replaced the main vac line from the pump. But my problem is probably the shutoff switch by the IP.

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85 300D, PlantDrive VO kit, Stage 2 performance intake
Tampa, FL

the hoses have to be installed correctly, if they are reversed the engine will not shut off, most have a blue paint on the valve and on the hose so you know where they connect

Like many other people on this board, my car too does not shut off. My old vacuum shut off valve failed, so oil seeped all the way up to the ignition switch (a fair amount). Well after much research and precaution (didn't want a run away!), I replaced the shut off valve on the IP. Finally my car would shut off!

Fast forward 4 weeks later, the shut off valve fails.... again! (When directly connected to my mityvac, valve holds no vacuum, just bleeds off!) So now, I plan on replacing the shutoff valve with a new genuine bosch part (I suspect the original one must have been cheaply made.)

I also am going to replace the vacuum shutoff connecter on the ignition switch, due to all the oil that has no doubt collected in there.

Does anyone know a trick for getting the shutoff valve on the ignition side out? Do I have to have the key in the ignition at a certain position (on/off?)
I would appreciate any suggestions! The vacuum system on this car is going to drive me bonkers!

Thanks

If you turn the ignition all the way to the right and push in on the dimple that holds the steering lock in place, you can slide the whole unit out carefully.

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1987 Mercedes 300D

i have had good luck cleaning them, make sure the valve is open, ignition off, and disconnect supply and feed lines, spray a little brake cleaner through until it is clean, then blow with compressed air (canned air works well), just be careful if you use shop air as it can blow the hoses off inside at the switch.