76 300d value? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

brightbus · #1 08-23-2006, 07:37 PM

gonna sell my 300d soon (tear), but I need a newer car that would be easier to take care of under my budget (high school student) plus i want someone that could restore it, i was just wondering how much I should be trying to sell it for?

108,000 miles
ac does NOT work
vacuum locks do not work
shifts slightly hard (common for these models I read)

i have some people who are looking at it, and are willing to pay 1k. i know its not much, but i just wanted to know what the value of this car would really be

junqueyardjim · #2 08-23-2006, 08:21 PM

Since you are a HS student and probably don't have big bucks to spend for an upgrade ride, could you tell us what would be (in your thinking) better basic transportation and what do you think would be easier and less costly to maintain and operate. The problems you mention on the 77 300 D are not very difficult to correct. Is that all that is wrong with your 77. How is the body? Is it decent or is it a rust bucket. Where do you live? If we knew that maybe we could find someone to help you.

brightbus · #3 08-23-2006, 08:36 PM

the body is in real good condition, there is slight rust on the front drivers side of the car (about the size of 2 half dollars I would say) and there are 2 dents about the size of a half dollars on the hood (look likes 2 very big rocks, or something else hit it at one time.) and thats about it on the body. i paid 700 for it at a sealed auction. oh yeah lexington, kentucky

davidh · #4 08-23-2006, 09:04 PM

for a grand i buyit in a heartbeat. no rust ? low mileage ? good candidate for WVO? why sell it. ? you will have to spend a bunch more to get something just a bit better i think.
davidh

drive it here, northwest wisconsin, i;d llove to have it. . .

diametricalbenz · #5 08-23-2006, 09:06 PM

How are the rear floorpans, jack points, and trunk floor? Those are all the usual rust spots. If it's rust free or very little there then you can bargain a little more.

brightbus · #6 08-23-2006, 09:18 PM

rear floorpans have some rust, but not too bad, as for the jackpoints, last time it was jacked up did not notice any, also i dont remember any rust in the trunk

as for the ac, i dont know if it works, i know there was no belt on it when i got it, so it could work (not likely) compressor could be seized or something else

as for the vac, i have no clue where it leaks. i know vacuum locks dont work, im pretty sure its a big leak and/or vacuum tank isn't holding vacuum, because fuel door will lock IF you lock the drivers door immeidatly after turning car off. its a new antenna in, but it doesnt work, all power windows work except drivers side which will go all the way down, but gets stuck goin halfway back up (have to pull on window, while pushing button to get it to come up)

oh yeah got the car from a vocational school I use to go to. think it was donated, previously belonged to the army fort campbell (still had the army clearnce decal on front windshield)

not a problem of the car persay, but the insurance is killing me. had to call around for ever to find someone who would insure me (17, male, plus 30 year old car) and finially got insured by state farm, but its 150/month (or 900 every six months) and that's only liabilty not full coverage)

whooh that was a lot

mikemover · #7 08-23-2006, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brightbus

as for the vac, i have no clue where it leaks. i know vacuum locks dont work, im pretty sure its a big leak and/or vacuum tank isn't holding vacuum, because fuel door will lock IF you lock the drivers door immeidatly after turning car off.

The hard shifting is probably a result of the vacuum leak. I would disconnect and block-off the locking system IMMEDIATELY, because driving the car without the proper amount of vacuum going to the transmission is VERY bad for it!

Mike

brightbus · #8 08-23-2006, 10:01 PM

how would i do that? is it the two vac lines on the right part of the engine? also it doesnt shift really hard, you can just feel it when it changes gears

brightbus · #9 08-23-2006, 10:21 PM

any more replies?

bgkast · #10 08-23-2006, 10:22 PM

Shop around more for insurance and keep it. Insurance shouldn't be that bad for an old, slow car (I droce a VW at that age). Are you on your parent's insurance?

brightbus · #11 08-23-2006, 10:25 PM

yes i am on my mom's insurance, her car is a 99 saturn sl1, and she pays like 80 a month

most places told me it was too much of a risk, including AAA and others

mikemover · #12 08-23-2006, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brightbus

how would i do that? is it the two vac lines on the right part of the engine? also it doesnt shift really hard, you can just feel it when it changes gears

It should be the yellow vacuum line that goes into the firewall near the brake booster... or perhaps it's yellow with a stripe?.... I don't recall for sure.

Disconnect it from the rubber y-fitting, and plug the rubber fitting with a screw/golf tee/ball bearing... anything that will securely seal it off so that your vacuum pump is not losing vacuum at that point.

Mike

bgkast · #13 08-23-2006, 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brightbus

yes i am on my mom's insurance, her car is a 99 saturn sl1, and she pays like 80 a month

most places told me it was too much of a risk, including AAA and others

Weird. My family had safeco and they had no problem with my '71 VW bus. Your benz is much safer that it.

brightbus · #14 08-23-2006, 10:39 PM

hmmm ill make sure to take detailed pics tomm, and upload, now where would I get golf tee's??

the insurance really burns me up though. my fried had a 73 chevy i belive, and insurance wus like 40/month

other questions

is the ac even worth fixing? or should i just cruise with the windows down?
front window again, gets stuck coming back up. any suggestions?
rear window defroster. button doesnt stay lit up if pulled out, have to hold out
oh yeah vacuum locks and all that (at this point pretty sure the lock is in the master lock system
hmmm that's pretty much the problems

jwhughes3 · #15 08-24-2006, 01:23 AM

I think you need to check with your insurance co for rates on other possible cars (like 95/96 Dodge neon with tons of miles or 95 Sentra) that you can buy for $1000. I think you will wind up with something that will cost you more to fix and run in the long run.

John