Correct, as usual.

The SDL shifts a bit softer now that the ALDA is removed. I've got the adjustments at the rail for both the VCV and the amplifier and the base vacuum setting is 9". I'd prefer to have a setting below 9" due to the very light pedal required to move the vehicle.

What's your opinion on cranking up the modulator to achieve this?

I realize that I end up pushing the vehicle further from "stock", however, I'm OK with it. The low speed performance is spectacular and there is no smoke, so, I'm quite sure that M/B was too conservative with the ALDA settings.

Mine both shift fine still.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

Reporting back.

My car, running petrodiesel, I was averaging 20.5 mpg, 99% Commuting to and from work, mostly under 50 mph, some idling.

With this tank of fuel, ALDA removed, same driving conditions, 18.5 mpg. Keep in mind this is me goosing it all the time even in stop and go just to see the smoke, or to get tailgaters from being on my azz by giving them a puff..... So, I'm going to drive the car this week like a normal human being and see what happens. If I lose 2 mpg, its worth it for the additonal 'fun to drive' factor of the car sans ALDA. Hopefully it will go back up again.

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91 350SD
14 F150 Eco
19 Fusion Hybrid
11 GT500

Do they winterize Diesel where you are?

Sixto
93 300SD

I haven't lost any econ in the winter with No 2 in Texas. He's just outside of Houston near me when I'm here...

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

I think the difference in shift feel is due to the fact that the old alda was probably leaking, which would reduce the vacuum and create harsher shifts. Getting rid of the alda and plugging the line gets rid of the leak, and therefore bumps up the vacuum creating softer shifts. If your alda wasn't leaking, I don't think there would be any difference in shifting. I know that I have had to make a drastic adjustment on my modulator to get it to shift right. So far I'd say I turned it clockwise about 10 time altogether, and even still it's a little soft at partial throttle. I know the previous owner had taken it to his mechanic because it was shifting too hard (I'm assuming due to the leaking alda) and on the bill of sale it states that they adjusted the modulator, so I know that it wasn't at the factory setting when I bought the car.

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87 300D - Running on Veggie oil; 260,000 plus miles; Original #14 head

The ALDA takes a pressure signal from the manifold. Although this pressure signal is also supplied to the amplifier, it's not going to affect the quality of the shift in any significant way, if the ALDA is leaking.

The reason that the shifts appear softer is quite simple. You only need 1/4 pedal to drive the vehicle under just about all conditions. Therefore the vacuum to the transmission is a bit higher than it would have been with the ALDA installed. With the ALDA, you'd typically use 1/2 pedal for most driving conditions.

Mr. Carlton, based on your experience with a 603, will I get the same result and benefit if I do it on my '85 123 with 617.952? As of right now, I really don't have any accelaration and fuel economy issues. Everything is all acceptable performance-wise.

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'85 300D Turbo - CA Version

Can't claim any personal knowledge of results with the 617.

Lance is perfectly fine on his without the ALDA.

However, others have really suffered some heavy smoke and certainly can't drive the 617 without the ALDA.

It all depends on your fuel calibration on your specific vehicle.

Additionally, it depends on your driving style. If you're a person to mash his foot down to keep up with the gassers, then removal of the ALDA is definitely not for you. If you're a person who typically doesn't use more than 1/2 pedal to get the vehicle accelerated, then it's worth the attempt to remove it.

In my case, the SD performs very well from a standing start and I doubt that I'd see much more benefit from it, so, I don't have the need to remove it.

Thanks Mr. Carlton! That being said, removal of ALDA in my case, is not really necessary. That's all I need to know. I'm just wondering, because so far, my ALDA is still virgin.
I'm only mashing the pedal down if I really need to, like merging on the interstate or get caught up with a yellow light and every once in a while when doing an Italian Tune-Up, otherwise, I drive conservatively. With the way I'm driving, especially on a stop and go US highway with 55 mph limit, I don't have problems catching up with the V6 and V8 gassers, and you're right, I don't have to push the pedal past 1/2 and the car itself will speed up as soon as it get going.

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'85 300D Turbo - CA Version

I love mine without the ALDA. However, it seems my injection pump is tuned pretty lean (Probably because it's from an 84 SD) and it only smokes at WOT until I get a few PSI of boost. I'll just have to wait until I decide to adjust my full load setting to see how bad smoke gets.

I am posting here as it seems I may have a problem along these lines. I have a 87 300 DT, 195K Changed both fuel filters drove a 2 weeks and then found out that the fuel lines were rotted out. Changed all the metal fuel lines and also the rubber ones at the tank too. (Brake lines were done at the time too)I did not do the strainer if there is one??? I emptied the tank and put the old diesel back in when I was finished, started the car on the first try and drove it then a few days, about 200 miles and now I have no power. The acceleration is the pits, very slow, when going maybe 20 mph, push the gas the revs go up a bit and then the car accelerates very slowly. Even doing a kick down does little, revs go up but no real forward motion. I am thinking that maybe the main fuel filter got clogged with crud after I empied the tank to install new fuel lines. The little see thru filter looks nice and clean, a nice yellow color with a bit of air in it. But would not the see thru filter be clogged then too??? I am also thinking maybe the ALDA needs help as decribed in this thread. This slowness started yesterday and I really noticed it today. It feels like it is not getting the fuel it wants but why would then the engine rev up to about 3500 if I recall correctly. The shifts are also now much harder. The door locks work fine, as I was thinking vacuum...So I thought I would replace the fuel filters again and do the ALDA adjustment/removal part. One needs to remove the washer bottle to get at it. I have had the car a few months but have driven it maybe 700 miles as it needs much TLC at the moment...Any commentary would be appreciated in case I missed something or to support my ideas. Thanks

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1987 300 DT

Good lord... 20mpg? On a 603? That's abysmal... you should look for other problems, like an intermittent odometer, for starters! I get 28-30 pretty routinely on my 124, and that's with the full load screw cranked up a bit. The SDL should at least be in the mid-20's. Even with extended cruising near triple digits, with much larger than stock rubber, I don't often see under 25mpg...

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Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

Really? The odometer is dead nuts on. I have a Nav Unit in the car and its 1 mph slow. My car is driven in rush hour traffic most of the time, so it does idle quite a bit. I better do more investigation then....where should I start?

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91 350SD
14 F150 Eco
19 Fusion Hybrid
11 GT500

Worst I got with my SDL was 21-22mpg when setting boost. I've gotten well over 29mpg a few times too freeway only.

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]