603 Crankshaft Pulley Failure - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

MBDFahrer · #31 09-12-2007, 01:19 AM

JB Weld works THAT well? Wow... cause it looks like the snout is damaged pretty nicely. I've never done any major engine work (the biggest job I've done is a valve adjustment and that's with someone walking me through it), so I'm taking every piece of advice into consideration and if its that easy... then count me in!

Chas H · #32 09-12-2007, 10:14 AM

There's little else to do. The car is likely not worth the expense of swapping out the motor and changing the crankshaft would be even more work and money.
Make sure you tighten the big bolt fully.
Whoops, I misspoke about using JB Weld. The Miata fix uses Loctite.
Here's the link to very complete instructions. You may want to change the front seal while all is apart.
http://www.miata.net/garage/hsue/LoctiteCrank1.html

Number_Cruncher · #33 09-12-2007, 01:17 PM

>>is it possible to do these repairs while the crankshaft is still in the engine?

I don't know how much clearance there is. If you have to take the crank out, then it's a long and expensive job.

Have a look, and see how much room you have. If you need to buy a right angled drill head to get in to fit an in-situ fitted key, or if you need to buy an electric welder to weld it all up, it will still be much cheaper than a conventional repair.

Although this part of the crank isn't subject to much torque loading, it does bear the brunt of any crankshaft tosrional vibration - the repair you do must be sound and snug, and the crank bolt must be well tightened, and be gripping the pulley/hub properly.

badtrukrisin · #34 09-12-2007, 07:39 PM

Why don't you just do a little trimming with a dremel in the sides of the cshaft keyway so it has sort of flat sides and make a mold out of clay or other material and then grind you a key to match the mold and upper keyway and see if that will hold. Probably will. Did it on a diesel Frod tractor once.

Bud

MBDFahrer · #35 10-16-2007, 02:58 PM

Well, went to the pick n pull yesterday, for the first time, found a 300SDL with the 603 in tact (someone ganked the oil pan already). They want $234 for the motor, but I don't have the resources to transort and store it

and I don't have the tools or the strength to drop the crankshaft, since that's really all I need.

If anyone is interested in the motor, don't know how much longer the car will be around for, but its at:

Ecology Auto Parts
13780 E. Imperial Hwy.,
Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670.

bustedbenz · #36 10-16-2007, 04:58 PM

http://www2.northerntool.com/product/200305213.htm

There's your resource for pulling the engine. 603 seems to have chain hooks on top that would make it pretty do-able. Might not work out so good on rough junkyard ground but those things are okay on shop floors if you buy one maybe a tad less Chinese than the one I just found, and work carefully.

Then what would it cost to rent a truck/trailer or whatever had to be done to carry it home? Maybe it's worth that if the engine in the junkyard has a few hundred thousand miles left on it?

Just a thought.

junqueyardjim · #37 10-16-2007, 06:10 PM

I bought an 83 parts car a couple of years ago and it had the same problem. The owner was an instructor at the Nashville Tech School teaching diesel truck electronics. And he let students work on his 617 for various projects. Seems that one time they didn't get the damper and pulleys on just right and really messed it up. They used a titanium based epoxy which is a Caterpillar part. With that repair he pulled about 150,000 more miles out of that engine, using the A/C 100% of the time. I still have the engine in my garage and I was going to take off what I wanted next week and will junk it. I think much of JB Weld, but I don't think JB Weld will ever hold that pulley/damper assembly.

babymog · #38 10-16-2007, 10:16 PM

The beveled key in the Worldpac photo looks like it isn't far off of the current state of the crankshaft, you might find a good weld shop that can repair it in the car but be sure that he grounds to the crank, not the block, or you'll weld the bearings to the crank.

As far as the cause, if it's a salvage title it is possible that the engine came from a frontal collision where the crank pulley was impacted and stopped while the crank was spinning. It is further possible that the crank has other damage to it from the impact also.

I'm not sure of the balance of the crankshaft pulley either, would it work to cut a new keyway 180* and install the pulley in the new orientation?

t walgamuth · #39 10-17-2007, 12:48 AM

I doubt that jb weld will hold it either. That caterpillar stuff sounds like a possibility though.

I don't think you could rotate it and cut a new one either.

And welding it on seems unlikely to work either, isnt the damper a part with rubber isolation rings in it?

It is worth trying some kind of epoxy though....the cat stuff.

Tom W

MBDFahrer · #40 10-17-2007, 01:27 AM

The title of the thread is wrong actually, all things considered the vibration damper actually bolts onto a hub, and the hub is the part that's damaged. Sad thing is, I realized this AFTER ordering a new pulley and damper ($500) and since the dealer said it was special order, no refunds.

I still haven't gotten a quote for the hub.

Item 29 is what failed.

t walgamuth · #41 10-17-2007, 01:34 AM

That should be a returnable part. I would keep trying and go up the ladder.

Tom W